I have just torn down the old battens that acted as a ceiling in the attic upstairs and revealed the roof decking. Now to the question, should I install a vapor barrier or not against the ceiling?
The house was built in the 50s, has natural ventilation, and has additional insulation from the outside, so there is no plastic on the interior walls (spån & tretex). The attic is insulated with sawdust and some old insulation.
Tried to google a bit, but everyone seems to do it differently. There is also a chimney in the room from which we have knocked off the plaster to replaster, how do you handle the vapor barrier against that?
The house was built in the 50s, has natural ventilation, and has additional insulation from the outside, so there is no plastic on the interior walls (spån & tretex). The attic is insulated with sawdust and some old insulation.
Tried to google a bit, but everyone seems to do it differently. There is also a chimney in the room from which we have knocked off the plaster to replaster, how do you handle the vapor barrier against that?
A well-functioning 70-year-old house without a vapor barrier would refrain from installing something you don't need that could become a problem.
Moisture issues
The moisture generated by the house's occupants must be diverted somewhere. The humid indoor air has previously been able to penetrate through the roof and walls of your older house because it lacks a vapor barrier. This has usually not been a problem because the heat leakage has simultaneously dried out the construction. If you now install a vapor barrier in an old house, the balance is disrupted, and it becomes difficult to know where the moisture ends up.
Ventilation, it's called ventilation.D Dr Jumping Jack said:
It is impractical to let all the liters/day of water that need to be transported out of a home with modern living go through the walls and roof.