Borrowing the thread a bit!
Acme, you and others seem to have a grasp on what works.
We are starting an extension on our turn-of-the-century house in March. An L-shaped addition, 8m long and 6m wide. The original house is 8x12m. I had hoped that 2x9" for a 6m free-spanning floor joist would suffice. Planning to set c/c 300 or 400mm and cross-brace tightly.
Is that a bad idea?
We'll be laying a solid pine floor, so a glued and screwed chipboard floor is not an option either...
Kertobalk and similar options are more expensive and I also prefer that the floor joist be approximately as thick as in the old house to achieve the same ceiling height on the lower floor and an even floor on the upper floor.
Acme, you and others seem to have a grasp on what works.
We are starting an extension on our turn-of-the-century house in March. An L-shaped addition, 8m long and 6m wide. The original house is 8x12m. I had hoped that 2x9" for a 6m free-spanning floor joist would suffice. Planning to set c/c 300 or 400mm and cross-brace tightly.
Is that a bad idea?
We'll be laying a solid pine floor, so a glued and screwed chipboard floor is not an option either...
Kertobalk and similar options are more expensive and I also prefer that the floor joist be approximately as thick as in the old house to achieve the same ceiling height on the lower floor and an even floor on the upper floor.
acme!
Yes, of course, but I don't think he wants a threshold of about 7-10 cm!
or the ceiling goes down just as much!!
With 4 m, I mean without bracing!
You can surely add another meter BUT it's time to brace!
Add bracing both 2-3 rows, and you've solved the problem!!!
callemange!
No, 2"9_" won't work in this situation as the stretch is too long with 2"9"!
Load-bearing wall underneath or build a beam in the middle and cut the joists into the H-beam, and you've solved it!
Larger dimensions will only cause more problems!
Best regards,
speedomac
Yes, of course, but I don't think he wants a threshold of about 7-10 cm!
or the ceiling goes down just as much!!
With 4 m, I mean without bracing!
You can surely add another meter BUT it's time to brace!
Add bracing both 2-3 rows, and you've solved the problem!!!
callemange!
No, 2"9_" won't work in this situation as the stretch is too long with 2"9"!
Load-bearing wall underneath or build a beam in the middle and cut the joists into the H-beam, and you've solved it!
Larger dimensions will only cause more problems!
Best regards,
speedomac
Now I sound like an old Swedish teacher but please don't use so many "!!!!!!" all the time because it can be interpreted as if one is angry or upset.... Let the kids do that so we can raise the level a bit here on the forum.
But what if you don't want to remove the beams and just want to reinforce them a little? I have an old floor structure with a 5.90m span, with sawdust between the beams and about 1-1.5dm of clay cladding at the bottom. Couldn't it be reinforced somehow without cutting away the beams, as they have worked fine in my house for over a hundred years? If you remove the clay, you're significantly reducing the weight. Isn't it enough to just have sawdust/eco-fiber in the floor??
hi!
hard to see/explain when you don't see how it looks!
you say the house has stood for a hundred years?
great house, you can't get better timber than the core wood you have in your house!
the problem with your beams, as I said, is different dimensions and it has *settled*!
even if you clean between, it won't help!
a tip can be, if you remove the floorboards and clean between the logs, then go down and place an acrow prop in the middle and push up the floor *if possible*, preferably a bit more than level.
then go up and lay new planks in the largest size that fits, screw them firmly into the logs with *good* coach screws! then lay plywood board 22mm and glue everything, even on the beams!!
hope this explanation can be helpful!
best regards
speedomac
hard to see/explain when you don't see how it looks!
you say the house has stood for a hundred years?
great house, you can't get better timber than the core wood you have in your house!
the problem with your beams, as I said, is different dimensions and it has *settled*!
even if you clean between, it won't help!
a tip can be, if you remove the floorboards and clean between the logs, then go down and place an acrow prop in the middle and push up the floor *if possible*, preferably a bit more than level.
then go up and lay new planks in the largest size that fits, screw them firmly into the logs with *good* coach screws! then lay plywood board 22mm and glue everything, even on the beams!!
hope this explanation can be helpful!
best regards
speedomac
speedomac:
I have a similar future problem if/when I build an additional floor. Today's beams are likely a bit weak, 3x6" with a span of 3.6m. Do you mean that you can screw on extra planks to the existing ones to reinforce them? So in my case, could you attach 2x6" on both sides with a bunch of lag screws? Is that enough? What do you think about adding a horizontal 2x3" to the current 3x6" (glue and screw) and then attaching a sturdy 2x8" on one side of the reinforced beam?
I have a similar future problem if/when I build an additional floor. Today's beams are likely a bit weak, 3x6" with a span of 3.6m. Do you mean that you can screw on extra planks to the existing ones to reinforce them? So in my case, could you attach 2x6" on both sides with a bunch of lag screws? Is that enough? What do you think about adding a horizontal 2x3" to the current 3x6" (glue and screw) and then attaching a sturdy 2x8" on one side of the reinforced beam?
I have now ordered 45x220 6.5m long to reinforce my joist frame, planning to build "boxes" between existing beams that are spaced at 120cm center-to-center, setting the studs at the same height as the beams and using cross braces at 60cm intervals. I have a span between the beam walls of 6.10m, and will attach the studs to the wall with joist hangers and "long" anchor screws.
Am I off track or does this seem like a good construction?
I will remove the clay lining so that the studs fit and leave the rest for soundproofing reasons, and will also put the sawdust back in the floor.
Am I off track or does this seem like a good construction?
I will remove the clay lining so that the studs fit and leave the rest for soundproofing reasons, and will also put the sawdust back in the floor.
went by the date it was started on December 21st, didn't think about the year.