Hello,
I live in a house from 1923 where the floor between the levels doesn't feel completely stable. I actually don't have any concerns about the load-bearing capacity. The house has stood for almost 100 years, and some creaking is to be expected, and there are no signs that any damage has occurred. But it is nonetheless a bit annoying.
Now the room on the upper floor is going to be renovated, and it is a golden opportunity to fix it. Are there any simple tricks to make the construction stiffer? Grateful for any tips and input.
I live in a house from 1923 where the floor between the levels doesn't feel completely stable. I actually don't have any concerns about the load-bearing capacity. The house has stood for almost 100 years, and some creaking is to be expected, and there are no signs that any damage has occurred. But it is nonetheless a bit annoying.
Now the room on the upper floor is going to be renovated, and it is a golden opportunity to fix it. Are there any simple tricks to make the construction stiffer? Grateful for any tips and input.
Extra floor beams, yes maybe, or cross brace between existing ones or glue and screw thick K-plyfa on the sides of existing ones. But it’s a bit difficult if you want to save the wooden floor and on the underside, you might have a newly renovated ceiling, right?
Jerka: As you write now, it seems like you just want to renovate but don't know how you want it...
Think from the finished product first, then you can get help with thoughts about the steps to get there.
Think from the finished product first, then you can get help with thoughts about the steps to get there.
hello!!
I’m stepping in a little here now!!!!
Cross-checking is COMPLETELY correct but difficult in this situation since his joists are logs of various dimensions!!!!
I know this sounds tough for you, thread starter, but the best result is to tear down that joist and hammer in a new one!!!
Then cross-check if the span is longer than 4 m!!! Dim 2"9"
Now, I don’t know how you have it in your case, haven’t seen pictures or anything!!!
But this is the proper answer to your problem!!!!!
Best regards,
speedomac
I’m stepping in a little here now!!!!
Cross-checking is COMPLETELY correct but difficult in this situation since his joists are logs of various dimensions!!!!
I know this sounds tough for you, thread starter, but the best result is to tear down that joist and hammer in a new one!!!
Then cross-check if the span is longer than 4 m!!! Dim 2"9"
Now, I don’t know how you have it in your case, haven’t seen pictures or anything!!!
But this is the proper answer to your problem!!!!!
Best regards,
speedomac
If the span exceeds 4 meters, one should consider choosing another material than construction timber, e.g. Kerto or glulam. Alternatively, provide a second support if possible.
a 2"9" k24 can handle a span of 4 m without anything. but you cross anyway!!!!
acme: how high should the floor be??? glulam?
then you're at least 300mm.
no, go with 2"9" here now, and this will be great!!!!
regards
mackan
acme: how high should the floor be??? glulam?
then you're at least 300mm.
no, go with 2"9" here now, and this will be great!!!!
regards
mackan
Calm and steady... We don't even know if he has a span of four meters or more...
A 2"9" K24 can manage four meters, but you mentioned "bracing if the span is longer than 4 m." If the span is longer than four meters, it's advisable to switch to something stronger than 2"9", such as a 45x260 Kertobeam or a 42x270 glulam beam.
Jerka; Regardless, more information is needed to provide an appropriate answer. I don't think you need to remove the entire floor to reinforce it.
A 2"9" K24 can manage four meters, but you mentioned "bracing if the span is longer than 4 m." If the span is longer than four meters, it's advisable to switch to something stronger than 2"9", such as a 45x260 Kertobeam or a 42x270 glulam beam.
Jerka; Regardless, more information is needed to provide an appropriate answer. I don't think you need to remove the entire floor to reinforce it.
acme:
when do you use such large beams in a standard house floor structure???
when do you use such large beams in a standard house floor structure???
When the span requires it.
we are talking about his house now!! an old villa!!
he doesn't live in a big barn!!!
thread owner: I know from experience that you have beams in the frame! over time they start to bend, because they have slightly different dimensions, they are mixed and so on. to fix this and make sure you are 100% satisfied, have someone take down the frame in that room and replace it!!
I assume it was only in one room where the crisis was severe????
as long as you don't have a kitchen or bathroom underneath, this can be fixed neatly and tidily!!
best regards
speedomac
he doesn't live in a big barn!!!
thread owner: I know from experience that you have beams in the frame! over time they start to bend, because they have slightly different dimensions, they are mixed and so on. to fix this and make sure you are 100% satisfied, have someone take down the frame in that room and replace it!!
I assume it was only in one room where the crisis was severe????
as long as you don't have a kitchen or bathroom underneath, this can be fixed neatly and tidily!!
best regards
speedomac
Have I missed something? JerkaV doesn't specify what kind of building it is, right?
I'm currently sitting in a multi-family house/rental building from 1912 where the floor joists in the living room span 4.90. It's not unusual in older buildings.
By the way, it was you who started rambling about spans over four meters. I just clarified that there are more suitable alternatives than cross-braced 2"9" in those cases.
I'm currently sitting in a multi-family house/rental building from 1912 where the floor joists in the living room span 4.90. It's not unusual in older buildings.
By the way, it was you who started rambling about spans over four meters. I just clarified that there are more suitable alternatives than cross-braced 2"9" in those cases.
acme
you don't use those measurements in a regular house! k24 2" 9"!
if you were to go up to your dimensions, you'd get steps into the room or barely any ceiling left!!
you don't use those measurements in a regular house! k24 2" 9"!
if you were to go up to your dimensions, you'd get steps into the room or barely any ceiling left!!
Again, it depends on the span. You need to adapt your construction to how long the joist span needs to be, right?
My statement above is based on the National Board of Housing's Construction Regulations which specify 4 meters as the maximum span in a section when you have screwed and glued floor chipboard on 45x220 K24 c600.
When building new, it's not an issue with differing heights because you can use the same dimensions across the entire area.
If renovating and following current regulations, you'll have to accept that there will be a level difference, or alternatively reinforce, relay the joist, or choose other materials and dimensions.
My statement above is based on the National Board of Housing's Construction Regulations which specify 4 meters as the maximum span in a section when you have screwed and glued floor chipboard on 45x220 K24 c600.
When building new, it's not an issue with differing heights because you can use the same dimensions across the entire area.
If renovating and following current regulations, you'll have to accept that there will be a level difference, or alternatively reinforce, relay the joist, or choose other materials and dimensions.