Hi, I'm new here and also new to the construction community 
I have just bought a new apartment where I have demolished a wall between two bedrooms, now it's time to put up the new wall. But when I read on the internet, I get a little confused. The bedroom where I will put up the wall has a concrete ceiling and concrete floor, the walls are made of drywall.
What I was thinking was to use wood studs, starting at the floor and ceiling then stud boards in between. But now I've read about moisture problems? Due to the concrete and wood.
There have previously been closets directly on the concrete since the 70s (basement below) without problems. Could there be problems with wood studs directly on the concrete floor?
If not, which screws are suitable for attaching the studs to the concrete (both ceiling and floor)? I was mostly thinking about how thick they should be, I need to buy a drill for them
Thanks in advance!
I have just bought a new apartment where I have demolished a wall between two bedrooms, now it's time to put up the new wall. But when I read on the internet, I get a little confused. The bedroom where I will put up the wall has a concrete ceiling and concrete floor, the walls are made of drywall.
What I was thinking was to use wood studs, starting at the floor and ceiling then stud boards in between. But now I've read about moisture problems? Due to the concrete and wood.
There have previously been closets directly on the concrete since the 70s (basement below) without problems. Could there be problems with wood studs directly on the concrete floor?
If not, which screws are suitable for attaching the studs to the concrete (both ceiling and floor)? I was mostly thinking about how thick they should be, I need to buy a drill for them
Thanks in advance!
Install the sill sealer against the floor and the top plate (sill and top plate) where it meets bare concrete. Fastening is done with nail plugs 8mm cc60. This is placed straight through the stud, allowing you to drill through the stud into the concrete in one step.
You shouldn't frame with boards, but you mean studs like 2"X3", right?
You shouldn't frame with boards, but you mean studs like 2"X3", right?
Metal studs are said to work better regarding sound, dampening noise more effectively.
ok will have to think about it, but as it looks today it will probably be wood, and specifically 2x3"
so I was thinking of asking for tips on the length of the nail plug. I have an 8mm diameter, so the depth: height of the stud about 50mm if I am correct, is 80mm length of the nail enough or should I go with 90 so that I drill 40mm into the floor or alternatively up into the ceiling, or is 30mm depth enough for the nail to hold properly?
so I was thinking of asking for tips on the length of the nail plug. I have an 8mm diameter, so the depth: height of the stud about 50mm if I am correct, is 80mm length of the nail enough or should I go with 90 so that I drill 40mm into the floor or alternatively up into the ceiling, or is 30mm depth enough for the nail to hold properly?
Checked now and some seem to have only 80mm and 100mm, 100 feels a bit much and it seems like 2" on the rule is 45, i.e. 80-45=35 which should be the minimum for where you attach. So it should work with 80 too? Sorry for asking a lot, but that's how you learn?
depends a bit on whether it's a surface layer on the concrete like plaster or similar porous material. so maybe that's all you'll catch. but you'll notice when you drill. Watch out for electrical conduits and possible underfloor heating, etc.
However, I don't think there are any major issues with such a simple wall as a separating inner wall that won't have heavy cabinets hanging on it, etc.
If you just get the studs (standing wall studs) to fit well in length (slightly longer) so that you have to tap them into place, they'll wedge the wall in place too.
When you finally drive in the nail plug, it sinks a few extra mm into the wood as well.
However, I don't think there are any major issues with such a simple wall as a separating inner wall that won't have heavy cabinets hanging on it, etc.
If you just get the studs (standing wall studs) to fit well in length (slightly longer) so that you have to tap them into place, they'll wedge the wall in place too.
When you finally drive in the nail plug, it sinks a few extra mm into the wood as well.
80mm is sufficient, if you use wooden studs, saw them a millimeter too long so you can hammer them into place, then it's easier to nail/screw them.
Additionally, the wall will be tightly squeezed between the floor and ceiling, so your nail plugs won't be particularly stressed.
(Oops, the previous person apparently wrote at the same time as me but a little faster)
Additionally, the wall will be tightly squeezed between the floor and ceiling, so your nail plugs won't be particularly stressed.
(Oops, the previous person apparently wrote at the same time as me but a little faster)
perfect and now to my maybe last question
e.g. the sill is 4.02m long, thinking of using the 4.04m rule, read in an article (DIY enthusiast on the internet I assume) that wrote he divided a 5m long sill into 2.5m each, i.e. had two rules at the floor. i.e. they took half the length each. is this ok? to me, it sounds obvious that one should have a single long one. since wood is alive etc..
Thanks again for all the answers! really nice to find such a great community!
e.g. the sill is 4.02m long, thinking of using the 4.04m rule, read in an article (DIY enthusiast on the internet I assume) that wrote he divided a 5m long sill into 2.5m each, i.e. had two rules at the floor. i.e. they took half the length each. is this ok? to me, it sounds obvious that one should have a single long one. since wood is alive etc..
Thanks again for all the answers! really nice to find such a great community!
Wouldn't it have been enough to glue the bottom and top rail with adhesive and then make the studs a few millimeters longer so that they fit tight? That way, you wouldn't have to worry about drilling into any pipes or electrical wiring...? After all, it's just an interior wall...
Since there are very good adhesives available today, it should be entirely possible to glue. Personally, I drill about 25 mm into the concrete, as water/electric usually lies at least 30 mm in... but you can never be completely sure.
Perhaps a combination, gluing and placing 3 nail plugs at the top and bottom, so you get a little tension when you drill while ensuring that the wall remains intact.
Perhaps a combination, gluing and placing 3 nail plugs at the top and bottom, so you get a little tension when you drill while ensuring that the wall remains intact.
Forcing that rule (4040 mm) with a 20 mm excess against interior walls (if the measurement is 4020) is not something I would have done. The interior walls will likely move slightly then. The cut lengths, i.e., standard measurements are (in this range) ...3900 4200 4500... mm if those are the measurements that caused some confusion?
/Kent
/Kent
The easiest is to use 70 mm metal channels (preferably with the higher flange) in the ceiling and on the floor and then position 2"3" within these. The metal channels are secured with short nail plugs and the wooden studs can be fastened by driving a drywall screw through the flange into the stud.Kiranos said: