Tiling around outlet?

[Mikael_L]

You can smooth with fix first, and tile a day later.

However, I think you absolutely won't have any problem with that.

A formal error indeed, but it's more serious in, for example, a shower area where large amounts of hot water are regularly sprayed (which causes some expansion and tension in tiles/fix).

 

[snowjim]

Okay, here are some pictures, unfortunately we only got halfway, I'm not exactly a handyman...

Since I was lucky that the outlets ended up right in the middle of the tiles, I made it easy for myself as you can see:


http://i.imgur.com/eZEKQSv.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/qHe4QAn.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/PbaG2yw.jpg

Unfortunately, the piece broke here as you can see and my girlfriend didn't want me to spend time cutting a new piece. Fortunately, the cover for the power outlet will cover more or less everything.

http://i.imgur.com/RytMCnG.jpg

 

[snowjim]

However, there is something strange, I think it looks crooked and wonky from a distance but when I look closely it looks okay, and when I check row by row with the laser it's also correct. I suspect it's something with the beveled edges or the crosses that's playing a trick, hopefully anyway.

 

[snowjim]

We bought 5 kg bags and for the first batch, we mixed 2 kg according to the instructions on the bag. The mortar became brutally hard to work with! It also seemed like we needed more. This also meant that we couldn't press the tiles down as far, so when we placed the spacers between the tiles, they sank below the tiles, so to speak, less successful! So we chose to place the spacers on top as you can see. The second mixture was 3 kg and we added almost 1 deciliter, which made the mortar perfect!

I must say that it is very nice to tile a wall that is straight, it goes so much faster! When I laid tiles in the basement, the floor was uneven to say the least, so it took forever to get it level with the mortar.

 

[Stefan N]

What was the idea with the small piece in the corner, that's not how you usually plan the setting.
When I mix fix, I go purely by feel, no measuring or anything, that's the best way.

 

[snowjim]

What was the idea with that little piece in the corner, not how one usually plans the layout. When I mix fix, I go purely by feel, no measurements or anything else, that works best.

I thought of it in the same way as when laying floors, i.e., you should start and end with equally sized pieces. However, it's good to point that out because I did actually forget to follow up on it. I need to calculate and see that I have progressed to the extent predicted on x number of rows. Probably I have added more mm in the gaps than subtracted, but I have a few rows left to compensate for that if that's the case, you can reduce by 1 mm per row, and it doesn't show.

The idea is then that those cut on the edge will continue on the short sides, and since the short sides are supposed to reach a specific piece, I have the possibility to trim them to the right length without it looking strange.

But we'll see, I'm obviously not an expert at laying tiles and klinkers. It rarely turns out as perfect as one would like, but on the other hand, it's not entirely uncommon with craftsmen either.

 

[thomasx]

It is also said that you should not have less than half a piece at the ends. If you think about moving this small piece to the other side and pushing the whole slab toward the edge. Then you get a piece at the other end that is double the small piece you currently have. If you then continue to push the whole piece (to the left) so that it becomes slightly shorter, you get a larger piece at the other end. After a little bit, you will have end pieces on each side that are the same size and are equal to or larger than half a piece.

It doesn't work under all conditions, but it would have in your case, if I thought right

 

[snowjim]

It's often said that you shouldn't have less than half a piece on the ends. If you imagine moving this small piece to the other side, and pushing the whole tile towards the edge. Then you'll have a piece at the other end that is double the small piece you currently have. If you then continue to push the whole piece (to the left) so that it becomes slightly shorter, you'll get a larger piece at the other end. After a little while, you'll have end pieces on each side that are equally large and equal to or larger than half a piece.

It doesn't work under all circumstances, but it would have in your case, if I'm thinking correctly

Hmm never heard of that rule

I tried drawing up your thought process and unfortunately, I have to admit you are right! I could have shifted it so I would have had a half-tile at the sides instead . Very annoying that I didn't think of that earlier! I guess it will bother me every time I look at it now, but that's how it is, there's no chance we're tearing it down again.

Hopefully, I'll remember this for the next time I tile or lay down ceramic tiles.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[nino]

Thomasx explained it perfectly
If you're unsure, it's better to lay the tiles out dry on the bench to see how the distribution looks and make adjustments accordingly, but that should work out okay anyway.

I also mix the fix mostly by feel, you learn over the years and after several tons

It doesn't really matter how you handle the outlets as long as the hood covers them and you don't tile around the outlets, then it's a real pizzeria warning. As you pointed out, the hood will leave a gap since you have beveled edges, but you'll have to live with that... your choice of tiles.

Try starting with whole tiles at the countertop when setting the short sides; a cut edge doesn't look good at all, and you'll almost have to cover it somehow, which will leave the trim gapping in the bevels.

 

[Mikael_L]

With such tiles with a beveled edge, it is often much nicer to have the outlets in a corner box at the angle between the wall and the wall cabinet. If you have wall cabinets, which is the case here, for example.