prototypen said:
Are you going to "fix" the socket?
If for some unknown reason you need to remove the socket, should you then chip away the joint?
If the socket breaks, can you get one with the same shape, sockets are redesigned.

Water cutter? Is it something NC controlled? If so, it can make round holes.

Absolutely do not cut around the sockets, it gives what's called a pizzeria warning.

Protte
No, it's a regular water cutter you can buy cheaply at Biltema, Jula, etc., it's worked well for the cutouts I've had to do for the floor I laid. I prefer to cut, of course, but it often becomes difficult when it's for sockets, pipes, or similar.

Pizzeria warning?
 
richardtenggren
I used a similar hole saw to the one you linked above, but from Jula, they worked well and are cheap, check what a "real" one costs :) Worked well on our tiles :)
 
snowjim said:
Is this what you should buy: [link]

Not super cheap directly?
Only 400 bucks for 7 hole saws that can take on stone material, that's cheap.
But note, max 500 rpm,

Protte
 
The budget version I use is to cut by hand with a hacksaw with a round carbide blade and use a parrot beak pliers for fine-tuning. I usually have to sacrifice a couple of tiles because they crack, and it takes some time, but the investment is minimal. This works well for glazed ceramic tiles; if they are hard tiles (which is rare on walls), it becomes more challenging.
 
I almost have to admit, when I was working on my bathroom, I had 2 tiles with holes in the middle left to set on a Sunday evening. I found a basic cheap hole saw for drywall that had been used for screws and various things. I drilled a hole in the middle with a concrete drill, then added water and used the hole saw from the back really slowly. It took a little while, but it was enough for two holes, probably more, and I finished. I was going to throw away the saw anyway, so definitely cheap if you don’t count the time ;)
 
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Levin_m said:
I almost have to admit, when I was doing my bathroom, I had 2 tiles with holes in the middle left to install on a Sunday evening, found a cheap regular hole saw for gypsum that had been used in screws and such. Drilled a hole in the middle with a concrete drill bit, then with water applied, used the hole saw from the back really slowly, took a bit of time but it was enough for two holes, probably more, and I finished. I was going to throw away the saw anyway, so definitely cheap if you don't count the time ;)
I did that before too.
 
There's nothing uglier than when amateurs tile with the outlets still on the wall, it makes you cringe when you see it.
 
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It's no problem to keep it.
To be really picky, you shouldn't use regular filler to fill the joints either, it's not strong enough.
 
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snowjim
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Mikael_L
I set my tiles in the kitchen with Biltema's acrylic-based tile adhesive http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Kakel-och-mura/Tatning-fix-och-fog/Fastmassa-LA315-2000017320/

There are equivalents among well-known brands, like Bostik, etc.

It's actually a relief to avoid messing with cement-based adhesive with a short open time. And I also had sanded joints, and I believe this adhesive does not transfer the same forces to the substrate, it is probably slightly flexible even when dried/cured.
 
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Why do you use spackle?

Protte
 
Mikael_L
prototypen said:
Why do you putty?

Protte
In my case, I puttied and painted because we would have to live with the un-tiled area for an unknown time ahead.
 
prototypen said:
Why do you use filler?

Protte
Very good question, it just felt obvious at the time. It's quite nice to know that you are putting the tiles on an even wall, otherwise you have grooves where the filler strips should lie. Sure, you can build up with adhesive, but that's also quite a bit of work, especially if you're using small tiles.
 
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