I have just started my kitchen renovation. Since some parts of the walls consisted of plaster with tiles on, I have removed both. However, I thought I'd be smart and only removed the plaster high enough to get rid of everything that was damaged. The idea was to install new plasterboard on the area I stripped and splice it against the part of the old boards that were still okay.

Getting straight cuts and removing the plaster was no problem, but when I started looking for new plasterboard, I got a bit confused. What I have on the walls now (and partially removed) is called norgips 74 (I live in Oslo, but Norgips seems to be available on both sides of the border).

When I measure the thickness, I get it to be 11mm. All the new plasterboards I find at Norgips and other places are 12.5mm.

Is it the case that the standard for plasterboards was once 11mm but is now 12.5? Or are there more to choose from? (Where can I find them if so).

And will it work to splice against the old boards, or is it doomed to fail?

An alternative is, of course, to take everything down and redo it all from scratch, but I'd rather avoid that. Grateful for input.

*edit 5 minutes later*

It turns out the panel I looked at was beveled at the edge, so it went from 12.5mm to about 11. Is it common to finish with that (out toward the door frame, for example), as it was with mine? I assume it's otherwise meant so you can fill and get an invisible joint?

The question remains, will this succeed, or is the only way to do it right to redo everything?
 
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Regular plasterboard: 13 mm
Renovation plasterboard: 6 mm

But I'm not sure if 11 mm plasterboard has existed before, never encountered it. But Norway, you say, it might be different there.

//Patrik
 
Wallboard is 13 mm (renovation board 6 mm)
Floor and ceiling board 12.5 mm.
 
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Lini said:
It turns out the board I was looking at was beveled at the edge, so it went from 12.5mm to about 11. Is it common to finish with that (out towards the door frame, for example), because that's how it was with me. I assume it's otherwise meant to allow for filling and getting an invisible seam?
Not towards door frames, that doesn't work well. But where plasterboards are edge to edge, you use the bevel to fill over the seam.
 
andersmc said:
Not against door frames, it won't turn out well. But where drywall sheets meet edge to edge, the bevel is used to plaster over the joint.
That's what I suspected. As with so much else in the apartment, those who 'fixed it up' earlier didn't have a clue. But good, now I know. Thanks!
 
That phasing out is trying to be directed in a way that is beneficial. But there's nothing wrong with having it, for example, against a door frame. It just ends up being a bit unnecessarily much to putty.
 
For the sake of handling, I have only been buying 900x2500 gypsum boards lately, and they are all 12.5 mm not 13 mm, so these are not special ceiling or floor gypsum boards, but regular wall panels.
 
At least LaFarge's records are 12.5, but it's called 13mm. (see the table at the top right of this page: http://www.wramstra.se/gips-13-x-900-x-2500/442-0) But for me, it doesn't matter, that half millimeter makes no difference, and it's a side issue, the OP's original question was actually about 11 mm and the conclusion is probably that he measured in the actual spackelfalsen.
 
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