Need help choosing a roof structure. The shed will have 2 rooms: 1 uninsulated with sparse walls for wood storage and 1 for bicycles, etc., potentially insulated. Total about 40 sqm. Now to the roof, I was thinking of a metal roof with a slope of 7 degrees? And how do I build it stably, how do I position the roof beams to achieve the slope I want?
 
Why do you want such a low roof pitch? At 7 degrees, only panel and sheet metal roofing and a few other metal alternatives work. If you go up to 10 degrees, there are more options, and at 14 degrees even more. Isn't 40 sqm very much for wood and bikes? It would be, for example, 5x8 meters. It's hard to say anything concrete about the suitable design of the roof without knowing the storage width dimensions. When you go over about 4 meters, you will probably need to combine glulam and construction timber or make a truss solution.
 
J justusandersson said:
Why do you want such a low roof pitch? At 7 degrees, only panel and strip coverings and a few other sheet metal options will work. If you go up to 10 degrees, there are more options, and at 14 degrees even more. Isn't 40 sqm a lot for firewood and bicycles? That's, for example, 5x8 meters. It's difficult to say anything concrete about the suitable design of the roof without knowing the width measurements of the shed. When you go over about 4 meters, you probably need to combine glulam and structural timber or make a truss solution.
Hello, yes 7 degrees is not a requirement.
I just want a lean-to roof, no trusses.
Yes, I know it's not easy to answer without knowing how I've planned; I haven't finished the drawings yet, but I'm attaching a picture where you can see that I planned to have a bearing wall in the middle, and I need 40 sqm because a lot of firewood needs to go in..
Floor plan showing a 40.5 sqm structure with a central bearing wall, a grid pattern on one side, and a narrower section on the right.
 
Then a part became clear. A width of 4.8 m should be manageable with 45x220 beams. It depends a bit on which snow zone you are in. I suggest at least a 10-degree slope.
 
J justusandersson said:
Then a lot became clearer. A width of 4.8 m should be achievable with 45x220 beams. It depends a bit on which snow zone you are in. I suggest at least a 10-degree slope.
But I am unsure how to build the most stable structure above the wall plate? I have only built by attaching rafters there before.. See my side sketch if it helps.. Building sketch showing structural measurements for placement above top plate, with details of stud spacing and openings.
 
The easiest way is to let the height of the walls follow the roof slope. Then you can lay the beams (with a little notch) directly on the wall plates and fasten with, for example, fork anchors.
A side view diagram of a structure with a sloped roof showing how beams can be attached to walls using hammer plates and metal anchors.
 
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J justusandersson said:
The simplest way is to let the height of the walls follow the roof slope. Then you can place the beams (with some notching) directly on the wall plates and secure with, for example, fork anchors.
[image]
Perfect!
Thanks for this.
 
I would bevel the top of the standing studs 10° (easy with the miter saw). Additionally, notch the top of the standing studs and inset a load-bearing beam there. Then nail a top plate on everything, it will then slope 10° without further hassle. Angle brackets between the truss (standard stud 45x220 or similar).

This way, you can set the roof studs without having to worry about landing exactly on top of the standing studs.

There is regular roofing felt that handles a 6° slope, so you don't have to go for anything special. The difference compared to a house with lots of insulation in the roof is that an unlikely small leak in the uninsulated shed roof after many years isn't a big deal.
 
M martinradbo said:
I would cut the standing studs at the top 10° (easy with the chop saw). Additionally, notch the standing studs at the top and recess a support beam there. Then nail a header on top of everything, which will then slant 10° without further hassle. Angle brackets between the roof truss (standard stud 45x220 or similar).

This way, you can set the roof studs without needing to worry about aligning them exactly on top of the standing studs.

There is regular felt that handles a 6° slope so you don't need to use anything special. The difference compared to a house with lots of insulation in the roof is that an unlikely minor leak in the uninsulated storage roof after many years does not matter as much.
Now I'm going to start with the roof, and cc120 is what's applicable for roof studs 45x220, right?
 
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