Not to be like that. But how was it with this really?D DanMicke said:
You started a thread because of the opposite, right? Honest question.
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
The staircase testifies, through peculiar solutions, to a lack of knowledge regarding the sizing and design of the parts in a building structure. This is also evident in the idea of searching for the strongest glue instead of making a new step. It is like going over the stream to fetch water.
Yeah sorry, now I actually was like that, absolutely correct.D DanMicke said:
No, not any overhang would have broken. But it doesn't matter to you.
IndeedD DanMicke said:Your perception of the impact of heavier falling objects with small volume might differ from mine
If I had a little time and weren't so darn busy during daylight, I would set up a little test (since I'm not allowed to do what I'm asking about and won't nag more about it) where I demonstrate what happens with your construction compared to a slightly more engineer-designed step when you drop, say, 12 kg from four meters.
The post reveals an inability to review what has already been said in a thread and the urge to correct with the self-image of being the most knowledgeable corrector so far. Sit in your own staircase and don't worry about my ability which you have no insight into.P patriklarsson said:
Thomas59
Construction veteran
· Stockholms län
· 3 321 posts
Thomas59
Construction veteran
- Stockholms län
- 3,321 posts
In contrast to what you (TS) claim, your staircase construction and your comments indicate that you do not have the necessary knowledge of how a staircase should be constructed/designed considering the loads that affect the strength of your construction.
Take for example the flat irons that you placed on the underside of the stringers. That placement only marginally contributes to the strength of the stringers. If you had the knowledge you claim to have, you would have placed the flat irons on the side of the stringers. The side against the wall, for example, so the flat irons are not visible. There is an enormous difference in the loads that the flat iron can handle "on edge" compared to your placement.
The best would have been if you chose a stringer with a step depth adapted to the treads you chose. Then you would have avoided an overhang that weakened your staircase.
Take for example the flat irons that you placed on the underside of the stringers. That placement only marginally contributes to the strength of the stringers. If you had the knowledge you claim to have, you would have placed the flat irons on the side of the stringers. The side against the wall, for example, so the flat irons are not visible. There is an enormous difference in the loads that the flat iron can handle "on edge" compared to your placement.
The best would have been if you chose a stringer with a step depth adapted to the treads you chose. Then you would have avoided an overhang that weakened your staircase.
Yes, it might have been a bit harsh, I can agree with that. Unnecessarily condescending tone. But in substance, he is completely right, I think. I believe most people would agree when they read what you write and look at your step. But I think it's completely okay, one should be allowed to lack knowledge, which is why it's so fun to learn new things and gain new insights. I'm not writing this in an ironic tone at all; I truly think it's a wonderful thing.D DanMicke said:
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
Ex
The wood fiber direction is the wrong way.
Buy a cheap wooden bench top with longitudinal grain, cut steps across with the desired depth. That you won't break.
The overhang is too long.
Cut a 1cm notch in the stringer where the step sinks in.
Place some form of angle underneath outward as suggested earlier.
There are small strong nice angles like these, together with strong convex wood screws:
https://amzn.eu/d/6HURHUx
Then you can skip both the ugly "supports" and visible screws from above as they also hold the steps in place.
You probably would have gotten damage from the dumbbell anyway, but then it's just a matter of loosening two screws to replace a step, and you also don't need to look for the old mounting points.
The wood fiber direction is the wrong way.
Buy a cheap wooden bench top with longitudinal grain, cut steps across with the desired depth. That you won't break.
The overhang is too long.
Cut a 1cm notch in the stringer where the step sinks in.
Place some form of angle underneath outward as suggested earlier.
There are small strong nice angles like these, together with strong convex wood screws:
https://amzn.eu/d/6HURHUx
Then you can skip both the ugly "supports" and visible screws from above as they also hold the steps in place.
You probably would have gotten damage from the dumbbell anyway, but then it's just a matter of loosening two screws to replace a step, and you also don't need to look for the old mounting points.
Well, unfortunately you are wrong. With this cross-section, placement on the sides will not give much. Placement from the bottom strengthens the wanga much more. In this position, the beam is stretched at the bottom and exceeding the strength tears the material. Fitting the beam with a steel flat bar will strengthen it many times. To achieve the same effect when using a flat bar on the side, it should be used on both sides and screwed tightly with screws. Of course, below the neutral zone. The best reinforcement here would be a U-profile or just a flat bar as it is!
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
You are both right, but an high L-iron fitted on the inside corners screwed from both under and inside, would be better than this flat one, with much less thickness. The solutions here are overall clearly not well thought out..S sturnus said: