We are planning to demolish two meters of a load-bearing wall. Can't afford a company. We thought about renting props, three per side, placing boards above and below the props, and then removing the wall. And possibly, hire someone to install the beam, or can we do it ourselves? We are not exactly carpenters but not completely unhandy. There is one more floor above plus an attic. Then I also wonder if we should let the beam rest on a decimeter of brick wall that protrudes from the chimney stack. The chimney and the brick wall stumps are not load-bearing. The rest of the walls are vertical planks with boards and plaster. :
I think this requires calculations to be carried out at all.
You reasonably need to involve a structural engineer for calculation and "method study". Then actually doing the work might be possible. Depends a bit on how it looks on site.
Hiring a structural engineer doesn't have to be so expensive for such a "simple" thing.
Hiring a structural engineer doesn't have to be so expensive for such a "simple" thing.
You couldn't hire a skilled carpenter then? The difficult thing is to know if they are skilled indeed. We tried to contact a byggnadsingeniör a year ago and it was almost impossible, there are almost none and the ones that do exist are working on large projects.
It's one thing how it works practically. But for such a measure, you need a building permit or at least make a building notification. Then you also need to appoint a quality manager (which with a bit of luck can be yourself). This KA is supposed to certify to the building committee that there are construction calculations.
If you ask around a bit, you should be able to find a sufficiently small engineering firm that can take on such a simple task. The firms that "are too big" should be able to recommend a suitable one.
If you ask around a bit, you should be able to find a sufficiently small engineering firm that can take on such a simple task. The firms that "are too big" should be able to recommend a suitable one.
Perhaps it is better to take the other option, draw new sewer pipes to the sink under the basement floor, though it seems to me much more difficult. Then you must dig up a trench and especially connect pipes to the sewer down there under the basement floor, and can't that be difficult? :
So, we're talking about two meters, depending on how old the house is, so it’s a beam that needs to be changed. It's not the most complicated thing—I think you can do it yourself if you want....
Search a bit for "bärande balk" on the forum and you'll find some info on the subject in a discussion regarding a future project at home. Here it's six meters between the support points. A whole bunch of smart guys contribute to that discussion!
To make a change of this type, a building notification is of course required. Otherwise, there are no "do not touch" rules.... If you want to see this duty from a positive angle, it’s a quick verification that the planned construction is correct/suitable. On the other hand, it's paperwork that's never finished when you're about to put the saw into the wall, so for those renovating the whole house and not just changing the wallpaper, you might do this on your own initiative with the support of people who know better.... : Sometimes.
Regarding the specific issue, one wouldn't dare advise without seeing how it looks, but it sounds wise to leave the chimney and brick wall alone.
Search a bit for "bärande balk" on the forum and you'll find some info on the subject in a discussion regarding a future project at home. Here it's six meters between the support points. A whole bunch of smart guys contribute to that discussion!
To make a change of this type, a building notification is of course required. Otherwise, there are no "do not touch" rules.... If you want to see this duty from a positive angle, it’s a quick verification that the planned construction is correct/suitable. On the other hand, it's paperwork that's never finished when you're about to put the saw into the wall, so for those renovating the whole house and not just changing the wallpaper, you might do this on your own initiative with the support of people who know better.... :
Sometimes.Regarding the specific issue, one wouldn't dare advise without seeing how it looks, but it sounds wise to leave the chimney and brick wall alone.
If you just tell me where this post belongs, I'll move it there..... :=)sofftis said:Maybe it's better to take the other option, run new drainage pipes to the sink under the basement floor, although it seems much more difficult in my eyes. Then you have to chisel a trench and above all connect pipes to the drainage under the basement floor and can't that be difficult ? :
On water and plumbing, right? Thanks for the responses, it's really encouraging to get helping hands in this jungle of building science. I'm checking "load-bearing beam" but it will have to wait until after the weekend because there's a lot to consider.
Thanks for the responses, it's really encouraging to get helping hands in this jungle of building science. I'm checking "load-bearing beam" but it will have to wait until after the weekend because there's a lot to consider.With a little effort, you can probably find a structural engineer to calculate it for you. Then you'll find out whether it's enough to place the beam on the brick wall, etc. Running new pipes in the basement is not such a complicated story, but you will have to chip a hole in the floor. The method of using shoring works fine, but is it a wall consisting of vertical planks and plaster that needs to be removed?
I relieved three load-bearing structures with a steel beam. Got the name of an engineer who could do it outside working hours. He came, took some photos, calculated, and explained how I should do it, 3000 :- for three pieces. It's worth it compared to the whole house settling
Not everything is insanely expensive in Stockholm
Robert
Not everything is insanely expensive in Stockholm
Robert
How did it go?
I thought I’d update old topics because I myself think it's fun to find out how it went.
We did as we planned, placed a steel beam. We chiseled in a few decimeters into the standing planks on one side and laid it on the protruding wall piece on the other side. The wall was a broad end, so we reinforced with a 45 x 90 beam on the inside of the "hole." This is probably not ideal, but I haven't seen anything negative happen yet. When we can afford it, I'll have the whole thing checked, and then I'll report back.
The downside is that the wall is not otherwise load-bearing, and there is surely some reasoning behind that. Perhaps the risk of settling? Also, if we plan to install a fireplace, I believe the beam should be protected from the heat somehow.
I thought I’d update old topics because I myself think it's fun to find out how it went.
We did as we planned, placed a steel beam. We chiseled in a few decimeters into the standing planks on one side and laid it on the protruding wall piece on the other side. The wall was a broad end, so we reinforced with a 45 x 90 beam on the inside of the "hole." This is probably not ideal, but I haven't seen anything negative happen yet. When we can afford it, I'll have the whole thing checked, and then I'll report back.
The downside is that the wall is not otherwise load-bearing, and there is surely some reasoning behind that. Perhaps the risk of settling? Also, if we plan to install a fireplace, I believe the beam should be protected from the heat somehow.
Agree that it's fun with updates on old threads, you definitely want to know how it ends.
From your description, it sounds like the balk's supports are somewhat uncertain. Couldn't you install two square tube columns, in other words, the usual way to support a load-bearing beam?
From your description, it sounds like the balk's supports are somewhat uncertain. Couldn't you install two square tube columns, in other words, the usual way to support a load-bearing beam?