Hello
I'm planning to make a support beam of about 170 cm between the kitchen and the living room. I've attached two pictures of the plank wall in question.
The house was built in 1944, with a brick façade and a wooden frame (as I assume from these planks).
The kitchen is on the entrance floor, there's a basement below and an empty attic above with a tiled roof .
The roof angle is less than 45 degrees. Snow zone 2 (Stockholm). The wall goes from the outer wall of the house and meets the chimney after the door opening, about 30 cm from the door opening to the chimney. Total length from the outer wall to the chimney is about 2 meters.
The planks in the wall are 46mm thick and the span is 85cm, forming full-length planks that support the attic and roof, as well as stubs above the existing door opening which is about 85 cm wide.
My plan for the support beam:
1, Posts that are 10x10, either by gluing two 2 x 4s together. Or buying a ready-made 10x10cm post (glulam?).
Is there a significant difference in strength between these two options?
2, When I've supported both ceilings and start sawing, I see two possible scenarios:
a, when I cut about 10cm below the ceiling, the stubs remain in different beam structures around the support beam.
b, that they are somewhat loose and can be removed with a bit of effort.
Is it possible in case a) to leave the stubs in place, set my beam under the current 6 planks and tie them together with a horizontal beam, which is also tied (with flat iron?) to the new beam underneath?
Or do I need to replace the entire wall planks with a new beam?
Planned beam; to glue two pieces of 45x145 together, or do I need to go up to 45x175/195?
Finished dimension would ideally be 90x145, but I guess that's on the edge.
I have checked the dimension table on Swedish wood, but I can't quite get it. It seems like I don't really need the strongest glulam anyway. Now I've found C35 graded timber at Woodys and was thinking of 45x170, gluing together two pieces. Otherwise, it's C24 that the major chains offer that's available in-store.
Any thoughts, or have you done a beam replacement and what was the hardest part?
/BuilderFinn
Hi
I am planning a beam replacement of about 170 cm between the kitchen and living room. I am attaching two pictures of the plank wall in question.
The house is built in 1944, brick facade with wooden framework (I assume due to these planks).
The kitchen is on the entrance level, there is a basement below and an empty attic above with a tile roof over it .
The roof angle is less than 45 degrees. Snow zone 2 (Stockholm). The wall goes from the outside wall of the house and meets the chimney after the door opening, about 30 cm from the door opening to the chimney. Total length from the outside wall to the chimney about 2 meters.
The planks in the wall are 46mm in thickness and the span is 85cm that extends full-length planks that support the attic and roof as well as stumps above the existing door opening which is about 85 cm wide.
My beam replacement plan:
1, posts that are 10x10, either glue-screw together two 2x4. Or buy a ready-made post 10x10cm (glulam?).
Is there a significant difference in load-bearing capacity between these two variants?
2, When I prop up the two ceilings and start cutting, I see two possible scenarios:
a, when I cut about 10cm below the ceiling, the stumps remain in different framing constructions around the beam.
b, that they are somewhat loose and can be removed with some hassle.
Is it possible in case a) to let the stumps remain, placing my beam under the existing 6 planks and tying them together with a horizontal joist which also ties (flat iron?) with the new beam underneath?
Or is it that I have to replace the entire wall planks with the new beam?
Planned beam; to glue-screw together two pieces of 45x145 or do I need to go up to 45x175/195?
Finished dimension will be 90x145 ideally, but I guess that's borderline.
Grateful for opinions.
/Finnsnickarn
[image] [image] [image]
Hi, what did you end up doing? Beam under the beam line or under the "stumps". Had I seen your post at the time, I would have instinctively said best directly under the beam line....
Hi, what did you end up doing? Beam under the supporting beam or under the "stumparna". If I had seen your post then, I would have instinctively said directly under the supporting beam is best....
I agree. But, since I didn't want to tear down more ceiling/beams in both the living room and kitchen, it ended up under the stumparna. Double 17cm planks on double 2 by 4.
However, it is tight; the stumparna are properly squeezed.
I don't remember if I screwed those that were accessible.
I agree. However, since I didn't want to tear down more roof/beams in both the living room and kitchen, it ended up under the stumps. Double 17cm planks on double 2x4.
It is tight, though; the stumps are properly clamped.
I don't remember if I screwed the ones that were accessible.
Good to know that it can work!
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