Steady partition wall halfway up to the ceiling?

[Martin Gothe]

Hello!
I am going to put up a stud wall in my mother-in-law's hallway, no problem of course. The tricky part is that it will be more like a "stud fence," with a height of 1.80 meters and about 1.50 meters in length, and it will only be attached to one side wall. What I'm worried about is my mother-in-law's hallway shelf, which I know she will overfill with 20 heavy furs. And then it feels like the "fence" will become front-heavy and unstable.

If there are any smart ideas about this out there in the forum, they would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards, Martin

 

[Raceman]

If you make the wall sufficiently thick, say 30cm, you can reinforce it with cross braces, made of studs (across the wall). It is also required that you "bolt" the wall properly to the floor.

 

[Anna_H]

One idea is to have a post up to the ceiling at the very end, even if the wall itself doesn't go all the way up.

 

[Martin Gothe]

One idea is to have a post extending to the ceiling even if the wall itself doesn't go all the way up.

Thank you Anna, I was also considering this idea... but my mother-in-law is a bit particular about the appearance... but she might have to give in to the construction method... (or the wall might do so )

 

[Martin Gothe]

If you make the wall thick enough, say 30cm, you can reinforce it with cross braces, made of studs (across the wall). It is also required to "bolt" the wall properly to the floor.

Good thought Raceman, unfortunately my mother-in-law would fall apart if the wall became 30 cm...(I'm starting to realize that maybe I should change mother-in-law..)
I'm a bit on the idea of maximizing the framework as much as possible, maybe cc 30 to get as much support as possible downwards.
Is it best to skip the bottom stud and bolt directly to the floor (concrete slab)?

 

[prototypen]

Securely screw the studs into the floor and wall, frame the rest, and glue and screw plywood on both sides; it will be a torsionally rigid construction. For safety's sake, you can make the wall slightly skewed so it becomes straight when the pälsarna are applied.

Protte

 

[Raceman]

If it is a concrete floor, some form of form support that you attach to the floor and brace against should work. See the image in post no. 3 in this thread so you understand what I mean. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/61728-faesta-byggbeslag-i-lecamur-utomhus.html

 

[prototypen]

Drill a hole in the concrete and insert a 1" iron pipe.

Protte

 

[Strip]

I'm not convinced that there will be so much lateral force. It's not like cement bags are going up there Take a plank of the right length, nail in a hook, and test hang while you hold the plank.

Negotiate away the shelf and put up some hooks instead, and it should be fine. A 75 mm thick studded with glued boards on the sides, properly anchored to the floor and wall, should suffice. If you want to be extra careful, you can attach some spiked brackets (or whatever they're called, the ones with lots of holes) before you put on the boards.

 

[Raceman]

I'm not convinced that there will be a lot of side forces. It's not like bags of cement are going up there Take a board of the right length, nail a hook there and test it while you're holding the board.

Since the wall is supposed to be in the hallway, I can swear that some people will lean against it when putting on shoes and similar activities.

Moreover, if there is supposed to be a hat rack (I don't think TS can negotiate that away) and you hang something on the outermost hook, it means you have to tilt your board in the example above by 15 degrees before you feel with what force the wall is pushed sideways.

 

[Strip]

Since the wall is supposed to be in the hallway, I can bet that there will be someone leaning against it, with putting on shoes and similar activities.

Moreover, if a hat rack is to be placed there (I don't think the original poster can negotiate that away) and you hang something on the outermost peg, that means you would need to tilt your example stud at 15 degrees before you notice with what force the wall is pushed sideways.

That's exactly what I meant, that the side forces are not quite as large as one might think. The wall is hardly going to tilt fifteen degrees
But the point about leaning against the wall is a stronger argument. I believe in a welded steel construction as the skeleton for the wall.

 

[Forbo]

Mura? Anchor in the concrete with expansion bolts, reinforcement, and anchoring mass...and cover with paneling. There are Lecablock that are only 9 cm thick.

 

[Raceman]

That was exactly what I meant, that the side forces are not quite as large as one might think. The wall should hardly lean fifteen degrees

Now you completely misunderstood my post.
Maybe I didn't express myself quite clearly. What I meant was:
Hanging something on the outermost peg on the hat rack (when the wall is straight up) results in the same sideways forces as you get by hanging the same weight on a hook (that is flush) and simultaneously tilting the wall 15 degrees.

Tilt a beam 15 degrees with your cement bag on it and let's see how well you hold up.

 

[Anna_H]

By the way, why not make a 30-40 cm long piece across the end, an L-shaped wall? That way, you can place the hat rack from wall to wall and make it hold much more, plus you won't be tempted to lean against it from the hat rack side.

 

[Milkshaken]

Asschh Mjäk with mothers-in-law... Just put her out there... Let's put it this way... yeah if you want it to hold then I have to anchor it at the end of the construction up to the ceiling... Otherwise, I'll make it the way you want it and it will lean within a few months..... Easy Peasy...