Ok, now I've caught up. As I said, more than one thing new to me has come up in this thread. And it's very welcome, even if this wall is done/driven, there are several walls thereafter that are up next.
75+45=120 by pure chance, so pooling resources sounds like a clearly wise idea. I assume you "lock together" the studs with some kind of plates? Metal? The only thing I think I'm "missing" is gasket paper, I can get it in under the new one, but the 75 mm sill is directly on the concrete. But maybe it's time for a risk analysis? Maybe it doesn't get so wet on the upper floor? And as I said, the existing sills are against the floor, but I haven't found any moisture damage on them when I've torn down. More interesting with gasket paper on the bottom floor I assume, but then again, shouldn't steel studs be used instead? On the ground floor, there is mold; wooden studs are used lying directly against the floor in that room, but I'm a bit unsure where the moisture comes/came from; the inspection hatch in that room seems to tend to overflow now and then, a few centimeters of water on the floor...
PatrikJo: Sounds a bit scary when you put it that way. The house has a room on each long side, with a corridor between them, so apart from the frames against the outer walls, there are 2 interior walls with wood studs c/c around 30. So really, it's as you say anyway. A good point about the wind barrier as well, I need to learn to be more pragmatic in construction. Edit: Just an additional question: If you "remove" the wind barrier between the air gap and the stud, moisture will get in, to the extent there is moisture... I assume it's no danger in this case? Looking at the studs that have been there since the house was built without a wind barrier, they seem to have avoided mold...
prototypen: Smart. I've bought material for room 1, so there will be a wind barrier, but in future rooms where the same thing will be done, it's worth remembering. Thanks .
tommib: Heh, yes, the openings in the mortar are neither evenly distributed over the wall, particularly even/straight all the way through the wall nor even in vertical joints... I imagine it's drainage at the bottom, see picture, but my gut tells me it's still not a good replacement for a properly ventilated wall. How do you open up vertical joints afterward? Hammer & chisel?
The base of the wall, concrete slab. Channel between?
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