I'm going to hang a fluorescent fixture for my aquarium, it weighs about 15kg.
I'm not really confident hanging it with molly plugs in the drywall.
I thought the furring strips were along the seams in the drywall ceiling, but they seem to run crosswise.
I've tapped and this seems to be correct, also used a stud finder and it shows the same.
As far as I know, they should run in both directions?
Is this common? Or am I completely off track?
I'm not really confident hanging it with molly plugs in the drywall.
I thought the furring strips were along the seams in the drywall ceiling, but they seem to run crosswise.
I've tapped and this seems to be correct, also used a stud finder and it shows the same.
As far as I know, they should run in both directions?
Is this common? Or am I completely off track?
Tomture61
Self-builder
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Tomture61
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Depends on many things, for example, if it's drywall 1200 x 2400 mm with spackeldiken on the long sides, I prefer to place the short side on the stud frame. This is because the short sides cannot be reinforced with tape.Handyman 1 said:
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1 1/2 floors. Ground floor.Tomture61 said:
Yes, sorry. Written unclearly, I mean that the glesen are across, not in both directions.
I can faintly feel that it is in the joints, even if I know that a stud finder is not always reliable, I think it should give a signal...
Tomture61
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Tomture61
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I assume we're talking about the lower floor; the roof trusses in your house function as the load-bearing beams of the intermediate floor (probably), so the battens are set across these load-bearing beams.B BjoLil said:
The painter's job, they use tape there anyway and spread the filler. Previously, there weren't boards with a tapered short end. Crack formation is much smaller with this installation. I have extensive experience with both installations.Tomture61 said:
If you place the board lengthwise, the long side has support all the way, we usually screw loose noggings on the short joint, feels better that the board edge has support all aroundTomture61 said:
Tomture61
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Tomture61
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How do you make this economical? It sounds like a very time-consuming job to place noggings at every joint. If I, as an amateur, do this, it's in my free time (which can indeed be valuable time).Handyman 1 said:
I don't understand the reasoning that it becomes stronger if you place boards lengthwise with the spacing. Gypsum boards are equally strong on all sides once taped and plastered.
It probably doesn't take that long to screw three loose kortlingar per sheet, I didn't say that the drywall sheet becomes stronger, but I only think that the joint between the sheets becomes stronger, since they have support behind them as much as possible instead of just being held together with joint compound.
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