peterwesterlund peterwesterlund said:
Load? I'm actually struggling now to prevent the studs from twisting. The shelf can probably handle the load whether it's glued or not.
Edit: How long should I keep it in this position?
 
Let it sit overnight. Sleep well and release the clamps tomorrow. Wake up satisfied!
 
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peterwesterlund
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I mean, I don't get it. It's always the left side that tends to sag a bit.

A TV showing a floorball match between Sweden and Finland, score 6-5, with a shelf beneath and cables visible.
 
Have you checked with the laser to make sure your brackets are level? :)
(considering that it's always the left side that dips...)
 
T tobbbias said:
Have you checked with the laser to make sure your brackets are level? :)
(Considering it's always the left side that dips... )
The brackets are COMPLETELY straight, as I actually checked them the other day, and there was a one-millimeter difference, so I repositioned them to be completely straight so that they really can't be the problem. And when I place the level in the middle, it's perfectly straight. But when I place the level on the left side, it's not straight.
 
How straight should it be if it is supposed to look like driftwood?
 
T Tosse said:
How straight should it be if it's supposed to look like driftwood?
It's just the color that's supposed to be driftwood. I don't want it to be so authentic that the whole TV ends up crooked because of it.
 
Can you turn it around and compensate with the console or something in between? Isn't it just a matter of placing the spirit level on the TV to see how much you need to raise it to get it level?
 
T Tosse said:
Can you turn it around and compensate with the console or some kind of spacer? You could just place the spirit level on the TV to see how much you need to raise it to get it level.
The worst part is that you can see how one side of the shelf tilts downward while the other side is straight... It's even more noticeable on the lower shelf where I have satellite speakers on each end, and the left speaker is almost aiming down at the ground.
 
Buy glue-laminated beams. They are guaranteed to be straighter than studs.
Or do as they suggested before and reverse-laminate. Just split the stud in half, flip one piece and glue them together.

The last tip is to buy a wall mount;)
 
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Getting a straight and even board without proper machinery will probably be problematic. It might work if you use narrower studs so you have more glue joints. The point is that the warping in the studs is different, so one stud prevents the next from twisting. For this to work, you need to be able to apply pressure so it stays flat while the glue dries. However, to ensure it stays flat, you need to joint the pieces before gluing.
 
Is it possible to soak timber, like showering them so they get really wet, and then lay them on a flat surface with weights, clamps, and clamps to focus it during the drying time and thus get the timber straight? Or is it impossible to make timber that has already warped straight again?
 
S
If I understand correctly, the dips are the left console if you place the spirit level from the wall.
This means the wall tilts a bit, so you need to shim behind the wall rail.

Use dry lumber if it's not to warp.
You can plane your crooked piece but then it will be thinner.

Have you considered buying glued panels in pine? Available ready-made for shelves, for example.
 
Glued laminated timber has been discussed here in the thread and yes, it's something I've considered, but I managed to get regular studs to straighten out when I bought them and pressed them right away. Now I'm just wondering if I can try to get the old studs I bought to press them in the same way or if they are done for since they have already warped. I would prefer not to have to keep buying more and more all the time.
 
S
You need to plane them.
 
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