Hi,

I am considering building a simple sleeping loft and storage, and would like some guidance on dimensioning.

Conditions:
- Existing rafters: approx. 40x115 mm
- Span: approx. 3 m
- Distance between rafters: up to approx. 1 m
- Room size: approx. 3 x 7 m
- Outer walls made of lecablock that some parts can rest on (approx. 10 cm per end)

Plan:
- One side: storage loft approx. 3.7 x 3 m
- Other side: sleeping loft approx. 2 x 3 m (temporary use, max two adults)
- Note that some rafters are closer together due to an old chimney that will be removed.

My current understanding according to the guide from Swedish Wood:
- You should go down to approx. 2.1 m span with 45x120 mm at cc 600 mm
- Glulam 115x115 mm cc 600 mm should work with a span over 3 m, but that feels spontaneously overkill?

My thoughts:
- Add more joists between the existing rafters (e.g., in joist hangers) to reduce the cc distance
- Let the construction partially rest on the lecablock walls where possible

Questions:
- How would you reinforce this in a reasonable way for both storage and a simple sleeping loft?
- Is it sufficient to frame to cc 600 mm with e.g., 45x120 or should one go thicker?
- Is glulam relevant here or unnecessary?
- Anything particular I should consider regarding fastening into/among existing rafters?

Attached are pictures for context. 3.18 m is the length of the intended joists, but the span is 3 m.
The "empty" image is AI-generated just to get an overview of the design.

Thanks in advance!
 
  • Hand-drawn layout of storage and sleeping loft, showing dimensions and spacing between beams.
  • Laundry room with gym equipment, including a weight bench, washing machine, dryer, storage shelves, and overhead loft storage with boxes and a colorful bag.
  • View of a room with exposed rafters and beams, white walls, and a kitchen counter with a sink beneath a window.
Last edited:
Wondering in which country the timber is 40*115?

It's not a bad idea to space the studs closer, I don't think you'll need a lot of joist hangers if you have about 10 cm of support on the lecawall; it should be enough to place new studs between the old ones and screw-glue a board where you want the sleeping loft.

Consider using wood strip or something else capillary breaking between the stone wall and the wooden studs.
 
  • Like
Ollwal
  • Laddar…
F fribygg said:
Wondering in which country the timber is 40*115?

It's not a bad idea to place the studs closer together, I don't think you need a lot of joist hangers if you have about 10 cm of support on the lecawall; it should suffice to place new studs between the old ones and screw-glue them to a sheet where you want the sleeping loft.

Remember to use a sill gasket or some other capillary-breaking material between the stone wall and the wooden studs.
Yes, I've understood that it's an odd measurement. The building is in Skåne :)
Upon closer measurement, I see that they are slightly wider than 40mm, but not quite 45mm like a "normal" stud.
On one side, there was 9 cm of support and on the other 6 cm right where I measured. It probably varies a bit over the entire wall.

I forgot to mention that the roof trusses and the upcoming studs do not rest directly on the lecawall but there is a wooden top plate (if that's what it's called?) they rest on.

So you think it would work to use 45x120 with cc 600? I see no problem if it would flex slightly, but it certainly mustn't collapse.

Attaching the cheat sheet I found.
 
  • Comparison chart for floor joist dimensions and types for decking and residential flooring, with options for different thicknesses, span lengths, and center distances.
Last edited:
Two by five with a span of three meters and a distance of one meter holds, you just have to hang with your hands on a joist laid on its edge and try, if you like the flex and want to lie and cozy up on the sleeping loft with a three-meter span, that's another question.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.