I need to replace the floor drain during the bathroom renovation and feel tempted to replace all the PVC pipes from '79 while I'm at it, to avoid potential leaks at the joints. It feels like the rubber gaskets there should have a lifespan limit. The drains for shower/sink/toilet are laid in one and the same space, between two joists that are 600mm apart, over to the vertical main stack.
The question is, if I cut the floorboard along and in the middle of the joist which is 45mm, can I simply lay new floorboard there afterwards? (And block under the mounting plate for the floor drain) Normally, you would install the floorboard perpendicular to the joists, now it will be laid along between two joists at 600mm apart. It will meet the existing floorboard at the midpoint of the joist.
Next question, when blocking under the mounting plate for the floor drain, can you use angle brackets to attach the blocks to the floor structure, or how would a professional do it? I thought about joist hangers, but I won’t be able to screw on the "other side" of the block if I only cut out a square in the floorboard at the shower drain.
And the last question, should one go with Purus or Jafos drain solutions with corresponding mounting plates? Does anyone have experience if one has any disadvantages over the other? It will be tile on the floor...
A little basic carpentry knowledge might have solved this, but one likes to learn! =)
The question is, if I cut the floorboard along and in the middle of the joist which is 45mm, can I simply lay new floorboard there afterwards? (And block under the mounting plate for the floor drain) Normally, you would install the floorboard perpendicular to the joists, now it will be laid along between two joists at 600mm apart. It will meet the existing floorboard at the midpoint of the joist.
Next question, when blocking under the mounting plate for the floor drain, can you use angle brackets to attach the blocks to the floor structure, or how would a professional do it? I thought about joist hangers, but I won’t be able to screw on the "other side" of the block if I only cut out a square in the floorboard at the shower drain.
And the last question, should one go with Purus or Jafos drain solutions with corresponding mounting plates? Does anyone have experience if one has any disadvantages over the other? It will be tile on the floor...
A little basic carpentry knowledge might have solved this, but one likes to learn! =)
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No problem joining the floor chipboard in the middle as you describe. You can place noggins between the joists and fasten them with brackets. If there is space above the pipes, that is. Don't forget the wood glue 
The floor drain plate should have support from joists all around. It's sturdiest if you make 2 headers with something like 145 timber between the beams under the plate. Then 2 more headers between the first two. A bit difficult to describe in text
It's best if you cut open so you can screw from the other side of the beam and into the end grain of the 145 timber.
However, reinforced angles with anchor screws work well too.
I have Purus myself on my wooden structure, and I find it stable.. A picture of my plate:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114740&d=1402602595
Attaching a picture of
The floor drain plate should have support from joists all around. It's sturdiest if you make 2 headers with something like 145 timber between the beams under the plate. Then 2 more headers between the first two. A bit difficult to describe in text
It's best if you cut open so you can screw from the other side of the beam and into the end grain of the 145 timber.
However, reinforced angles with anchor screws work well too.
I have Purus myself on my wooden structure, and I find it stable.. A picture of my plate:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114740&d=1402602595
Attaching a picture of
I think you might be weakening the construction by cutting up the spån. You lose the interaction between the glued-spiked spån and the joists. What is the span length? But if you're going to reinforce and use self-leveling compound on top, it should probably be fine anyway.
I understand what you mean with the noggings, that's how I was planning to do it.Östlund said:No problem joining the floor chipboard in the middle as you describe. You can place noggings between the joists that you attach with angles. If there's space there above the pipes, that is. Don't forget wood glue
The floor drain plate should be supported by joists all around. The most stable would of course be to make 2 trimmer joists with type 145 timber between the beams under the plate. Then 2 more trimmer joists between the first two. A bit difficult to describe in text
It's best if you cut so that you can access and screw from the other side of the beam, into the end grain of the 145 timber.
However, reinforced angles with anchor screws also work fine.
I have Purus on my wooden floor joists myself, and I think it is stable... A picture of my plate:
[link]
Attaching a picture of
I'm thinking of cutting up the entire section, which would be 600x2500mm, screw-gluing a 45x195 beam on one of the floor joists at the opposite end to the cut chipboard. This is to have something to attach the floor chipboard to on the other end. Since I will need to cut off the chamfer on the floor chipboard at one end to meet the existing chipboard, there will be around 2-3 cm missing at the other end (cc600mm joist spacing, the chipboard is 620mm).
There I'm thinking of taking a cut-off chamfer and screw-gluing it together with the boards I'm laying, in order to have something solid to screw into.
Does anyone understand what I mean? :x
The span is 600x2500 mm in the section I'm opening up. The entire bathroom is 1500x2500mm. Yes, there will be spot-welded reinforcement, waterborne heating, and self-leveling compound, so that might reinforce that part.para said:
Ok, I can't find any 22mm plywood, but according to a manufacturer's website, chipboard is denser than plywood?Östlund said: