I have started a project in a room where the idea was to paint and wallpaper it to make it nice. After tearing down almost all of the old textured wallpaper, I can see that there's damage in the form of a hole in the drywall, around 10x10 cm, at a spot near the floor. Now I'm completely at a loss as to how to proceed since I've never worked with drywall before.
This whole wall is 410 cm long and about 240 cm high, and it's an "exterior wall."
The house was built in 1968, and according to a description, the wall is constructed of:
13 mm aluminum-foil-lined drywall
10 cm mineral wool
4 " studs c/c 60 cm
1/8 inch fiberboard
6 cm sand-lime brick (and this must be the exterior brickwork).
What should be done about this? Should the hole be repaired, or should the existing drywall be removed and a new wall installed? What is easier?
This whole wall is 410 cm long and about 240 cm high, and it's an "exterior wall."
The house was built in 1968, and according to a description, the wall is constructed of:
13 mm aluminum-foil-lined drywall
10 cm mineral wool
4 " studs c/c 60 cm
1/8 inch fiberboard
6 cm sand-lime brick (and this must be the exterior brickwork).
What should be done about this? Should the hole be repaired, or should the existing drywall be removed and a new wall installed? What is easier?
There are plaster patches in the form of adhesive plates that you can spackle over. That's what I did where the previous owner decided to open the door a bit too forcefully, causing the doorknob to go straight through the wall.
Gypsum plaster, it seems convenient compared to my last thought of putting new drywall over the old ones... 
If you are considering another option (until the gypsum plaster retailer opens on Monday...), namely taking down existing drywall and putting up new drywall, would there be any benefit to replacing the insulation that's been there for almost 50 years, while the wall is open anyway?
Has today's insulation improved since 1968 so that it could make it warmer by the wall during winter?
The cost of gypsum plaster is about the same as the drywall for this entire wall, so the additional cost would be insulation, plastic, and the materials used to attach the drywall.
And, when the wall would be open anyway, is there anything that could be improved in the wall (without creating thermal bridges) so that it would be easier to mount things on the wall without having to fuss with drywall anchors?
Has today's insulation improved since 1968 so that it could make it warmer by the wall during winter?
The cost of gypsum plaster is about the same as the drywall for this entire wall, so the additional cost would be insulation, plastic, and the materials used to attach the drywall.
And, when the wall would be open anyway, is there anything that could be improved in the wall (without creating thermal bridges) so that it would be easier to mount things on the wall without having to fuss with drywall anchors?
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· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
I repair by inserting a piece of plywood into the hole (neaten the hole edge with a knife) which is screwed flush with the existing board, then I cut a piece of drywall that fits in the hole and screw the piece in place. Spackle!
Protte
Protte
I agree with previous speakers. Using a piece of plyfa/lath or equivalent, then cut a piece of plasterboard of the same size, chamfer both edges and plaster
Same technique here. Take a strip of chipboard/plywood/similar that is slightly larger than the hole. Tuck it into the hole and hold it while you screw it into the sides of the hole. Then carve a piece of plasterboard that fits into the hole, screw it into the strip piece. Spackle. Like new!
Thank you so much! Now I've got a handle on the repair method. Unfortunately, I don't have any gips at home, but I'll see if I can magically conjure some up.
I do something similar but I screw a couple of studs into the hole. Then I cut an appropriate piece from gypsum board and screw it to the studs and then spackle. I got the tip from an electrician when we were moving sockets and outlets in connection with a larger opening to the living room.prototypen said:
Thank you for all the responses!
The wall I complained about that had a 10x10 cm hole was nice compared to the last wall from which I've removed the old wallpaper (an interior wall)...
I might have to put up new drywall on this entire wall. The boards are completely torn at the bottom, which was previously hidden by the baseboard and a painted textured wallpaper. Probably the wall was damaged when the previous owner installed parquet flooring. But I'll have to tear down the wall to make sure there's nothing else going on here...
If I just put up new drywall, I'll probably have the least trouble since they have the same thickness as the old boards. But two new considerations:
1) It seems to be difficult to find aluminum-coated drywall. I assume the aluminum had some moisture barrier function, and nowadays, plastic sheeting is placed between the insulation and drywall instead. But do you also use plastic sheeting for interior walls?
2) If, in addition to putting up new drywall, one were to also put up an OSB board (or similar) under the drywall on the wall, the wall will increase in thickness by another centimeter or so. What do you do with the parquet flooring then? It will not be possible to fit the drywall between any seam between the parquet floor and the wall. The parquet floor seems to be on top of the old floor, with foam in between.
(The purpose of putting up an OSB board would be to make it easier to screw things into the wall).
The wall I complained about that had a 10x10 cm hole was nice compared to the last wall from which I've removed the old wallpaper (an interior wall)...
I might have to put up new drywall on this entire wall. The boards are completely torn at the bottom, which was previously hidden by the baseboard and a painted textured wallpaper. Probably the wall was damaged when the previous owner installed parquet flooring. But I'll have to tear down the wall to make sure there's nothing else going on here...
If I just put up new drywall, I'll probably have the least trouble since they have the same thickness as the old boards. But two new considerations:
1) It seems to be difficult to find aluminum-coated drywall. I assume the aluminum had some moisture barrier function, and nowadays, plastic sheeting is placed between the insulation and drywall instead. But do you also use plastic sheeting for interior walls?
2) If, in addition to putting up new drywall, one were to also put up an OSB board (or similar) under the drywall on the wall, the wall will increase in thickness by another centimeter or so. What do you do with the parquet flooring then? It will not be possible to fit the drywall between any seam between the parquet floor and the wall. The parquet floor seems to be on top of the old floor, with foam in between.
(The purpose of putting up an OSB board would be to make it easier to screw things into the wall).
There is no need to plastic wrap interior walls.
I would probably just use OSB and drywall on/above the floor. You'll still have a baseboard, which you'll have even if you change the floor sometime in the future.
Otherwise, you would have to saw off a strip of the floor with a plunge saw or multi-cutter. But as I said, I would probably let the floor remain.
I would probably just use OSB and drywall on/above the floor. You'll still have a baseboard, which you'll have even if you change the floor sometime in the future.
Otherwise, you would have to saw off a strip of the floor with a plunge saw or multi-cutter. But as I said, I would probably let the floor remain.
The parquet floor appears to have been laid without any movement allowance at all. It's really difficult to remove the drywall, which is wedged between the floor and the wall. There don't seem to be any issues with the wall, but the damage to the wall probably occurred when the parquet floor was laid. This wall faces the laundry room and was uninsulated, so insulation will be added here to reduce noise in the room.
Then, by chance, it turned out that, despite the power being cut to the room, there was power in an outlet on the wall. Apparently, the electricity from the laundry room and this room share a junction box and a breaker. This doesn't feel too good, knowing that not all the power to the room is cut when you think it is. I guess I'll have to call an electrician.
And I was just going to paint the walls...
Then, by chance, it turned out that, despite the power being cut to the room, there was power in an outlet on the wall. Apparently, the electricity from the laundry room and this room share a junction box and a breaker. This doesn't feel too good, knowing that not all the power to the room is cut when you think it is. I guess I'll have to call an electrician.
And I was just going to paint the walls...