I'm going to put some renovation plasterboard on a tretex wall, thinking that I'll screw it in indiscriminately since there are planks behind it. But in corners, should I cut the board or use it as is? And then get a bevel in the corner?
I'm only going to put the plasterboard on external walls, meaning the plasterboard will meet a wall that I won't be covering with plasterboard.
Should I use a paper tape in the corner or apply a nice latex caulk?
Suggestions on what to do with the electrical outlets? The electrical box isn't empty like when you set regular plasterboard, so I can't use a magnet. Is measuring the way to go?
I'm only going to put the plasterboard on external walls, meaning the plasterboard will meet a wall that I won't be covering with plasterboard.
Should I use a paper tape in the corner or apply a nice latex caulk?
Suggestions on what to do with the electrical outlets? The electrical box isn't empty like when you set regular plasterboard, so I can't use a magnet. Is measuring the way to go?
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Cut the board. Consider if you should use 13 mm drywall. We used renovation drywall on tetex walls and it's easy to screw through, and renovation drywall bends with irregularities and there can be a lot of spackling.
If you need a new surface layer, the best thing is to tear off the Treetex and replace it with regular gypsum board. Treetex is usually nailed somewhat sparsely, so it comes off quickly, and a standard gypsum board is as thick as Treetex, so you will be able to reuse door and window trims. Otherwise, I personally think Treetex is a perfectly good surface material, so do a rough spackle to make the surface almost perfect and then glue up renovation wallpaper throughout the room for a perfectly smooth surface, without having to fuss with changing trims around doors and windows or even removing ceiling moldings. Everything goes faster, becomes cheaper, and the final result is just as good—only advantages. 
If you absolutely must install gypsum, cut the board when you reach an inner corner so that you don't get any recesses there. If you install the board as tightly as possible against the corner, you only need to apply a little sealant in the gap, and it's ready to be wallpapered over. If there is a recess in the inner corner, you will have to spackle until you're gray-haired before it looks decent. For outer corners, however, keep the recess as the spackle strips used there are designed for the recesses in the gypsum boards.
If you absolutely must install gypsum, cut the board when you reach an inner corner so that you don't get any recesses there. If you install the board as tightly as possible against the corner, you only need to apply a little sealant in the gap, and it's ready to be wallpapered over. If there is a recess in the inner corner, you will have to spackle until you're gray-haired before it looks decent. For outer corners, however, keep the recess as the spackle strips used there are designed for the recesses in the gypsum boards.
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I also vote for tearing off the tretex. Then a 13mm gypsum board often works well as it is similar in thickness to the tretex.
If you're going to screw directly onto the tretex, I think renovation gypsum is better (more flexible and pliable) than 13mm gypsum, which can be a bit "brittle" if mounted on an uneven surface.
If you're going to screw directly onto the tretex, I think renovation gypsum is better (more flexible and pliable) than 13mm gypsum, which can be a bit "brittle" if mounted on an uneven surface.
The renovation plaster is very hard and the margin between an inserted screw and a passed-through screw is very small. If it's also soft or uneven underneath, it's even easier for it to go through. I vote to take down the tretex and put up plasterboard. Then you can take the opportunity to make channels for more electrical/data outlets in the plank wall while you're at it.basseman said: