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Renovation of basement walls - Help with product selection
Hello,
I will be starting to renovate the basement walls relatively soon. This is largely due to the fact that we will be installing a geothermal heat pump in a couple of weeks. Therefore, I want the basement walls to be renovated in the corner where it is going to stand. Otherwise, it seems impossible to access this. The rest of the walls I will take care of later.
The house and the basement are from 1928. The previous owner has painted with plastic paint. I will remove this using an angle grinder and a diamond disc. After that, I need to make the walls look nice again.
My hope is to be able to fill them nicely/fairly nicely and thus avoid plastering, which seems quite troublesome.
I'm not completely sure if the walls today are plastered with lime mortar or cement mortar. But I will find that out.
What I need help with is product selection. What should I choose? Husfix? Finja 360? What is good and easy to fill with? It should allow moisture to pass through, etc.
Thankful for any answers.
I will be starting to renovate the basement walls relatively soon. This is largely due to the fact that we will be installing a geothermal heat pump in a couple of weeks. Therefore, I want the basement walls to be renovated in the corner where it is going to stand. Otherwise, it seems impossible to access this. The rest of the walls I will take care of later.
The house and the basement are from 1928. The previous owner has painted with plastic paint. I will remove this using an angle grinder and a diamond disc. After that, I need to make the walls look nice again.
My hope is to be able to fill them nicely/fairly nicely and thus avoid plastering, which seems quite troublesome.
I'm not completely sure if the walls today are plastered with lime mortar or cement mortar. But I will find that out.
What I need help with is product selection. What should I choose? Husfix? Finja 360? What is good and easy to fill with? It should allow moisture to pass through, etc.
Thankful for any answers.
Knock off the plaster and reapply it, it's simplest and best. Removing old plaster usually goes quite quickly if it's old lime plaster. Sacrifice an old hand axe and strike with the broadside between the plaster and the wall. A demolition hammer usually hits too hard on old walls, especially if they are masonry walls, so manual effort is recommended.
Thanks for the response.
But that's exactly what I want to avoid. I don't think the plaster is so bad that it deserves to be torn down. It's just the paint that needs to be removed + there's a bit of plaster detachment lower down on the walls.
I'm fairly okay with spackling, so I'm wondering if there are any products you can recommend.
Best regards, Per
But that's exactly what I want to avoid. I don't think the plaster is so bad that it deserves to be torn down. It's just the paint that needs to be removed + there's a bit of plaster detachment lower down on the walls.
I'm fairly okay with spackling, so I'm wondering if there are any products you can recommend.
Best regards, Per
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· Stockholms
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What color will it be then?
I also have a basement where the plastic paint has peeled off at the bottom decimeter in a couple of places. I have no desire to remove all the paint and even less all the plaster. Silicate paint is therefore not an option for me and feels a bit overkill for you. But is there any other kind of good plaster paint?
I also have a basement where the plastic paint has peeled off at the bottom decimeter in a couple of places. I have no desire to remove all the paint and even less all the plaster. Silicate paint is therefore not an option for me and feels a bit overkill for you. But is there any other kind of good plaster paint?
The problem is that if you have a plaster from 1928, it is most likely a lime plaster, and all cement products are not recommended for such a plaster. Most fillers like "husfix" and Finja 360 are cement products and have poor adhesion to your old lime plaster. They also become too hard and too dense on your plaster.
And the other filler products like sand filler, etc., are often latex-based and too dense, so they peel off just like plastic paint.
There are rarely shortcuts if you want it to be good and durable, unfortunately.
And the other filler products like sand filler, etc., are often latex-based and too dense, so they peel off just like plastic paint.
There are rarely shortcuts if you want it to be good and durable, unfortunately.
If you don't want to plaster the entire surface, just knock down the plaster flakes and re-plaster those parts only. If it's possible to sand down the paint, do so but skip the "spackling." However, there is a risk that it will crumble when you start sanding the lime plaster.
Well, unfortunately, that's the way it is. Shortcuts are rare in a good renovation.
I'm going to check the plastering this weekend, what type it is and the quality. It could be that it's been replastered over the years. If it's a harder mortar (cement-based) that has been used, then in theory at least, finja 360 and husfix could work?
I'm going to check the plastering this weekend, what type it is and the quality. It could be that it's been replastered over the years. If it's a harder mortar (cement-based) that has been used, then in theory at least, finja 360 and husfix could work?
Theoretically, you can do a lot..............but whether it holds up is another thing 
Before the 1950s, lime mortar was used, and after the 1950s, lime-cement (kc) mortar, as a guideline. But my advice is the same if you want it to be good. Re-plaster the part of the basement that will be behind the heat pump, then you can experiment on accessible parts of the basement where you have the opportunity to redo it later "when" it comes loose
Just a piece of advice!
Before the 1950s, lime mortar was used, and after the 1950s, lime-cement (kc) mortar, as a guideline. But my advice is the same if you want it to be good. Re-plaster the part of the basement that will be behind the heat pump, then you can experiment on accessible parts of the basement where you have the opportunity to redo it later "when" it comes loose
Just a piece of advice!
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