Reinforcement, composite steel decking, construction drawing

[C.Lundin]

Here's how I think UK should look, hanging 10 mm in each valley of the sheet (i.e., longitudinal direction, green, red, and yellow) but only 1 in each valley/1 per 300 mm. Then, to support these, additionally, 10 mm directly on the sheet with 300 mm in the blue and purple directions. So it's like a net where you tie all the crosses together. Then the bent L's come up from the concrete blocks, 2 per block, and are tied together with ÖK or UK?

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There is nothing on the drawing that indicates there is more than one direction in UK. What you marked as purple and blue on the drawing are just dimension chains. As it is drawn, and what makes the most use, is that B-bars (potentially AB, not specified) should go up in ÖK.

A bit more info while you're talking about ties. They serve no function other than to hold the reinforcement in the correct position during casting. If you are loose reinforcing the ÖK, it doesn't benefit you to tie every cross instead of, for example, every third one.

 

[Plupp 184001]

There is nothing on the drawing that indicates there is more than one direction in the UK. What you marked as purple and blue on the drawing are just dimension chains. As drawn, and what is most useful, is that the B-järnen (possibly AB, it's not stated) should go up into ÖK.

OK! Then I'm not following how the järnen are hung in that case, but as long as it doesn't cause other problems, järn across the sheet (blue/purple direction) should also help and then hang up the red/yellow in the valleys as well.

It's a bit strange that it says 2*10 mm, CC300, but maybe those are the järnen down into the blocks? That is, 2 per block? If so, I'm starting to understand!

I can add that an undertak is also being installed.

 

[Plupp 184001]

There is nothing on the drawing indicating that there is more than one direction in UK. What you marked as purple and blue on the drawing are just dimension chains. As it's drawn, and what makes the most sense, is that the B-steels (possibly AB, it's not clear) should go up in ÖK.

A bit more info while you're at it talking about ties. They serve no function other than keeping the reinforcement in the right position during casting. If you're loosely reinforcing the ÖK, tying every cross won't give you anything more than, for example, every third.

Absolutely, I understand the limited function of the tie wire. But the ÖK is just laid with 500 mm overlap and that's enough, right?

 

[C.Lundin]

OK! Then I'm not following how the irons are hanging in that case, but as long as it doesn't cause other problems, the iron across the sheet (blue/purple direction) should also help and then hang up the red/yellow in the valleys as well.

A bit strange that it says 2*10 mm, CC300, but maybe that's the iron down into the blocks? In other words, 2 per block? If so, I'm starting to get it!

Can add that a under roof is also being installed.

That's for you to solve. A structural engineer rarely considers the actual execution.
They are two different items. 2*10mm are the irons from the blocks up in the OK and fi10@cc300 are straight irons. Why they are on two different measurement chains I can't answer, though it would have worked fine to use the same.

Absolutely, I understand the limited function of the tie wire. But the OK is only laid with 500 mm overlap and then you're satisfied, right?

You don't need that much on fi6 iron as it's drawn, but then you have margin. However, you do need to ensure correct placement.

 

[Plupp 184001]

You have to solve that yourself. A designer rarely takes the execution into account.
They are two different items. 2*10mm are the irons from the blocks up in the top and fi10@cc300 are straight irons. Why they are on two different measurement chains I cannot answer, it would have worked fine to use the same.

You don't need as much on the fi6 iron as it is drawn, but then you have a margin. However, you do need to ensure the placement.

Great! I'm on track now. I'll contact the designer and ask him to clarify...

However, I'll likely use straight iron in the other direction as well to support the straight irons at the top of the valley and stiffen across a bit.

As long as more reinforcement just costs money, I'll probably add a bit more

Just noticed that Norosteel calculated the width incorrectly... 9 pieces only cover 6.75 m, and I need about 7.3 m in total, so 10 plates are needed. Gah...

 

[Plupp 184001]

You'll have to solve that yourself. A designer rarely considers the actual execution.
These are two different items. 2*10mm are the irons from the blocks up in the OK, and fi10@cc300 are straight irons. However, I can't answer why they are on two different measurement chains; it would have been fine to use the same one.

You don't need as much on fi6-irons as it's drawn, but then you have a margin. You do need to ensure the placement, though.

The placement will be on plastic spacers, I think. I also need to talk to the concrete guys on Monday about what they prefer.

 

[Plupp 184001]

22 transverse and 80 longitudinal 10 mm 6 m rebar should do the trick. Then at least it's not under-reinforced...

How do you splice rebar (one side is about 7.3 m), is it 500 mm with tie wire as well? Feels a bit too simple...

 

[C.Lundin]

How do you splice a straight iron (one side is about 7.3 m), is it 500 mm with binding wire as well? Feels a bit too simple..

In most cases, 300 mm on fi6 iron is sufficient.
However, the designer should clarify this, as for longer distances general splicing either shift the splices or make them twice as long.

 

[Plupp 184001]

In most cases, 300 mm on fi6 bars is sufficient. However, the designer should clarify this as for longer distance general splices, you would either want to shift the splices or make them twice as long.

It is easy to lay 6 m from one side and then switch to the other side. Then the splice ends up very far apart and 600 mm splice is a small cost as well. Probably both!