Reinforce garage frame with perforated tape.

[P-plats]

If you place a storage unit against the wall next to the gate, it will be much more stable. But even two external braces give peace of mind. I'm thinking more about trying to find a farmer/blacksmith/workshop (gas or water/laser) that could burn out 2/4 proper 90° angles from a +5 mm plate that extends almost the entire depth of the post and 70-80 cm from the corner. Just straight lines and a small radius in the angle make it possible to have minimal hassle. Post-processing with an angle grinder depending on how much you care.

I have access to a lot of metalworking, including welders, etc., so blacksmith work I can handle. Now I have a new idea in my head for a console that I'm going to develop.

 

[P-plats]

We have a construction company in Norrbotten that has failed with perforated strap and experienced collapses on a few occasions. The perforated strap does not have particularly good structural bearing capacity, and a small damage to the strap somewhere is all it takes for it to fail catastrophically.
Use sheet material instead, and you'll also get fire protection as a bonus. (A plywood has almost the same resistance to fire as a gypsum board). A garage might be worth having at least a little fire protection in. You'll never be able to hang a spade on a perforated strap, but on plywood you can easily set up a holder for the spade.

I understand your reasoning about wanting to maximize the space inside, but you won't be using the room above a baseboard anyway. I've had a storage room built in a similar way, and it was completely hopeless to store things and machines there when the walls couldn't be utilized. I put sheets back up after a few months, and suddenly the storage room felt larger. If you're only going to have the caravan there, you won't be going in and out through any door to any great extent (that's typically the use case for leaving the wall without paneling or sheets inside). But you might want to have a shelf for garden furniture or an awning.

Not fun to hear about issues with damaged perforated straps and how it can affect things, but better to get that information now than when it's too late.
I'll think about whether I should combine both, as the space sensitivity varies in different parts of the garage.

 

[Jansson69]

Not fun to hear about problems with damaged perforated plates and how it can affect things, but better to get the information now than when it's too late.
I will consider whether to combine the two as the space sensitivity varies in different parts of the garage.

To utilize plywood for stability, you don't need to cover the entire walls. You can set it in some stud compartments recessed, and it will be stable and good.

 

[Svammlet]

You probably know this already, but you also need tensioners for the straps to get them tight!

 

[P-plats]

To utilize plywood for stability, you don't need to cover the entire walls; you can inset it in some of the stud spaces, making it stable and good.

Maybe I should put plywood in two of the "spaces" on each long side instead of perforated tape.
Does standard construction plywood work in a completely unheated space, or what should be used?
Should you choose 12 or 15mm?

 

[P-plats]

You probably already know this, but you also need tensioners for the bands to get them stretched!

That's the next question I've been thinking about.
There seem to be both tools to tension the band during installation and also expensive stretchers that are mounted on each band so you can tension as needed.
Maybe I should go for plywood on the walls and wire in the ceiling with a turnbuckle, could that be a better option?

 

[Jansson69]

Maybe I should put plywood in two of the "sections" on each long side instead of perforated tape.
Does regular construction plywood work in an entirely unheated space, or what should be used?
Should I choose 12 or 15mm?

I prefer 15 or 21mm, yes you can make an angle to put in the corner so that a section in the gable meets one on the long side, and it locks really well.

 

[Svammlet]

That's the next question I've been pondering.
It seems there are tools for tensioning the band during installation, but also expensive tensioners that are mounted on each band so you can tighten as needed.
Maybe I should go for plywood on the walls and wire in the ceiling with a turnbuckle, could that be a better option?

I have only used perforated tape myself at home, I made an installation tensioner from a turnbuckle and a bit of ingenuity. I have no experience with wire, so I can't help you there. A regular 22x145 board that you nail to the ceiling probably has the same strength as a band/wire, and you don't need to tension it!

 

[datja]

That’s the next question I’ve been thinking about.
There seems to be both tools to tension the band during assembly and also expensive stretchers that are mounted on each band so you can tension as needed.
Maybe I should go for plywood on the walls and a wire in the ceiling with a turnbuckle, could that be a better option?

I helped a brother-in-law build a small cabin together with a professional builder relative. He tensioned the perforated strap by driving the screw in at an angle so that the strap was tightened further by the screw’s path into the beam. It became tight as violin strings.

 

[Svammlet]

I helped a brother-in-law to build a "friggebod" together with a professional builder relative. This person tightened the metal strap by inserting the screw at an angle so that the strap was further tightened as the screw went into the beam. It became as tight as violin strings.

It doesn't work on all metal straps, some only have 4mm holes and there are no 4mm screws that can hold to tighten a 2x40mm strap.