Reinforce ceiling beam

[husbonden]

Have just started removing a wall that "supports" a roof beam. A bit difficult to describe, but I have a "loft" that spans 5100 mm and has had a wall that has been quite "rickety" underneath. Now I have put in insulation and laid flooring boards, placed a staircase at one end. Previously, it was just floor joists and a ceiling in the form of some board. In connection with this, an old chimney was taken down that barely held together. Anyway, the idea now is to try to reinforce the floor joist that was previously embedded in the chimney. The question is whether it would be possible to "reinforce" by adding 2"4" between the new 2"6" that now spans 5100 and the old timber beam that sits just over a meter above. I'll add some pictures to see if anyone understands what I mean.

 

[larsbj]

Create a truss between the beams, vertical studs do not provide much benefit.

 

[husbonden]

Ok. Then you mean to attach them roughly like in the last picture. A 2"4" at a 45-degree angle, then one vertical, then another one at 45, etc., or do you mean that all should be at 45 degrees?

 

[seniorkonsult]

Hello!
If you don't know construction techniques and how forces are distributed, my advice is to ask a designer to spend a couple of thousand SEK on a sketch with dimensions.

 

[MathiasS]

Make a truss between the beams, vertical studs don't do much good.

If you're going to take vertical loads, vertical studs are quite good....

The center post of the truss (middle of the image in the first picture) looks like it needs a vertical support underneath it. You already have a support one meter below this. Why not create a robust post here that can both support the floor joist (where the stairs lead) and further up, one meter, support the truss in the middle?

Or was the idea to remove the entire wall on the ground floor?

 

[husbonden]

If you are going to support vertical loads, vertical studs are quite good....

The roof truss's central post (in the middle of the first picture) seems to need a vertical support under it. You already have a support one meter below this. Why not make a sturdy post here that can both support the floor joist (where the staircase leads) and another meter up to support the roof truss in the middle?

Or was the idea to remove the entire wall on the ground floor?

Exactly. You understand perfectly. I almost dared to hope to remove the wall completely. It was so shaky that it's questionable how much good it did, but now that the chimney is gone, I thought I must stiffen the entire structure. The chimney stood in that end/corner (last picture) roughly where the staircase begins.

 

[larsbj]

If you want to support vertical loads, upright studs are quite good....

The roof truss's king post (middle in the first picture) seems to need a vertical support under it. You already have a support one meter below this. Why not make a sturdy post here that can both support the floor joist (which the stairs lead to) and further extend one meter up to support the roof truss in the middle?

Or was the idea to remove the entire wall on the ground floor?

Assumed that TS did not want a post in the room below but wanted to transfer the load to the outer walls, and then just vertical posts are almost of no use without a truss required.
For example, like this

 

[husbonden]

Hi!
If you don't know construction technology and how the forces are distributed, my advice is. Ask a designer to spend some 1000 kronor on a sketch with dimensions.

d^_^b Wow. What a tip. I had no idea that you could pay thousands to get help with drawing construction drawings. Then I wouldn't have asked on this forum, or..?

Seniorkonsul.t Can I PM you if I need more tips of that nature, okay? Thanks

 

[husbonden]

Assumed that the original poster didn't want a post in the room below but wanted to transfer the load to the outer walls, in which case only vertical posts are almost useless and a truss is required.
For example, like this [image]

Yes, yes, how fun. That was something similar that I possibly thought. Is it like you distribute the load towards the "ends"?
Can you use 2"4" and nail plates or does it work to just overlap and use French screws or M10 screws and nuts throughout?
Or should there be double braces on each side of the beam?

The old central post is just wedged with a tenon at the bottom and similarly at the top in the ridge beam (is that what it's called)

 

[larsbj]

Yeah yeah, how fun. It was something similar that I possibly thought. Is it sort of distributing the load towards the "ends"?
Can you use 2"4" and nail plates, or does it work just by overlapping and using French screws or M10 bolts and nuts throughout?
Or should there be double braces on each side of the beam?

The old center post is just wedged with a tenon at the bottom and the same at the top in the ridge beam (is that what it's called?)

2''4'' and nail plates will work well, use a 2''8'' for the standing one in the middle as it will take double the load compared to the other standing ones, the angled ones become tie rods and will hold with 2''4''.

 

[husbonden]

2''4'' and nail plates will work well, use a 2''8'' for the middle vertical as it will bear double the load compared to the other verticals, the angled ones will be tie rods and will hold with 2''4''

I "buy" that with hook, line, and sinker. Directly. And this won't cost (I suppose) "a few hundred bucks..."

Super thanks larsbj
found picture before chimney was torn down attached

 

[seniorkonsult]

husbonden; Ridiculous and ignorant comment. What I mean is that when you don't know loads and construction, there are things you shouldn't guess and handle yourself as an amateur. Just as with electricity. It's about safety. Moreover, this work requires a building permit with high sanction fees if you bypass the law. But you, as a know-it-all, probably fix your teeth yourself after consulting the internet.