Something needs to be done about the doors because you can't have the ventilation not functioning properly.I Ironside said:
It's not ideal if the basement air, which likely has the highest radon levels, is being drawn up to the upper floor without the 3 exhaust fans in the basement drawing enough air to provide sufficient draft in the two supply vents (living room and hobby room).
There shouldn’t be supply air in the kitchen as the kitchen fan is meant to draw air from the bedrooms and living room to ventilate them. The office should have supply air to prevent poor air quality when someone is sitting there.I Ironside said:
Normally, you want the airflow out of a bedroom to be low. But it's something that would be suitable to discuss with a ventilation expert.I Ironside said:
The kitchen has exhaust, or don't you have a kitchen fan?I Ironside said:
Window vents are counted as supply air. However, there should be none in the kitchen. And they don't always suffice.
I would place a puck in one bedroom on the ground floor, one in the bedroom upstairs, and one where you got the worst value last time during the next measurement, after actions have been taken. One of the bedrooms should of course be allergen-proofed. If it's one of the rooms that have been soundproofed, you might need to open a vent between the bedroom and another space, but keep in mind that the soundproofing will then be compromised.
Have spoken to companies that can come out and analyze the situation and suggest improvements. The price will be around 7000-8000 SEK. If major measures are needed, such as removing blåbetong or expanding ventilation, another company will have to do this.
Their advice until a deeper analysis has been conducted is to close the vent in the WC, laundry room, and storage on the basement level, which admittedly increases the negative pressure but dilutes radon with fresh air. It is also suggested that another vent can be opened in the living room for better flow. However, this might just as well increase radon levels if it is a case of ground radon.
Waiting for a response from another company that has a more comprehensive approach. The problem is that many of these companies do not seem to have received good reviews if one is to believe the internet.
Their advice until a deeper analysis has been conducted is to close the vent in the WC, laundry room, and storage on the basement level, which admittedly increases the negative pressure but dilutes radon with fresh air. It is also suggested that another vent can be opened in the living room for better flow. However, this might just as well increase radon levels if it is a case of ground radon.
Waiting for a response from another company that has a more comprehensive approach. The problem is that many of these companies do not seem to have received good reviews if one is to believe the internet.
Absolutely, removed some of the door moldings, for now, we'll leave the doors open. They've mostly been closed previously to stop the cats, but we'll have to live with that.BirgitS said:
No, exactly, so by opening all the doors in the basement and closing some air inlets (see previous post), the living room should be ventilated more through the hobby room.
When you turn on the kitchen fan, it needs a lot of air, and it's doubtful if the window vent in the bedroom is enough; perhaps just open a window until we install a proper air inlet in the bedroom.
Regarding the kitchen fan, I know a backdraft damper was installed there, which can rattle when it's very windy outside. That should mean that air inlets in the hall can't draw any air from the kitchen, but instead, it would come from the bedroom further in.
There is a kitchen fan but there is a backdraft damper there, i.e., 2 flaps that can flap around when it is very windy outside. I assume they are meant to prevent things from falling in? The window has supply air which is currently open, but it sounds like this should be closed so that more air is drawn from the inner bedroom, which only has supply air through the window vent.Anna_H said:
Yes, I'm considering buying a soundproofing vent and placing it above the door to the bedroom where the door needs to be closed. We'll see if I can manage that somehow.
First, I want a company to come here and do an analysis to find out if radon is coming from the ground or the walls. Implement any minor measures like adjusting the fan system, etc., and then conduct a new long-term measurement for 2 months. As you said, you should then place pucks in the bedrooms as well as the same place as before and see how it's affected.
According to one of the people I've spoken to, it's likely that the previous owner operated the fan at a higher speed when the short-term measurement was done, which can greatly affect the result.
Hello,
I don't really understand, or have I missed something? You have measured in three rooms out of 9 rooms that are used. One of the rooms, which you don't know which, has elevated levels and you don't know which one? How are you supposed to analyze where the radon is coming from? If I were you, I would buy one or two digital meters and see which rooms are affected and perhaps ventilate them more this year.
Then I would do a new long-term measurement next winter in all 9 rooms and then decide on what needs to be done. I am afraid that you have incorrect decision-making basis for taking proper actions and I wonder a bit about how a company that is there to sell can help you with incorrect decision-making basis.
I don't really understand, or have I missed something? You have measured in three rooms out of 9 rooms that are used. One of the rooms, which you don't know which, has elevated levels and you don't know which one? How are you supposed to analyze where the radon is coming from? If I were you, I would buy one or two digital meters and see which rooms are affected and perhaps ventilate them more this year.
Then I would do a new long-term measurement next winter in all 9 rooms and then decide on what needs to be done. I am afraid that you have incorrect decision-making basis for taking proper actions and I wonder a bit about how a company that is there to sell can help you with incorrect decision-making basis.
Unfortunately, you can't update older posts on byggahus, but among all the text, I have explained somewhere that it is the Living room in the basement that has gotten a higher value (240 +- 30).Ludde Jakobsson said:
I think companies that come out have a Geiger counter that can measure where the radiation is coming from; either it comes from the ground or from the walls (e.g., blåbetong). There are possible sources from both (Clay in the ground, which according to the municipality, can contain high levels as well as encountered seemingly small amounts of blåbetong).
It would be nice to have your own Geiger counter, but they seem to cost 7000+ SEK, and if such a thing even provides useful info, I don't know. Maybe one can rent one? Regardless, some training might be required, so it might be good if an expert looks at it.
Yes absolutely, we have now contacted companies that work with the analysis and remediation of radon. Even though our levels aren't very high, the companies will want to sell us both services and equipment. You end up in a vulnerable position since we are talking about health; the risk is high that you pay far more than necessary. You could see it as part of the money going towards peace of mind for the family.
Now, hopefully, we have improved the airflow in the house. The idea is to bring in a company and hear if there are any more easy measures we can take before doing a new measurement, which should be possible now in Jan-Feb (takes 2 months). But first, some form of analysis is required to know where it really comes from.
I called and checked with a couple of rental places, geiger counters don't seem to be something that's generally rented out, maybe sensitive equipment. Buying one costs about the same as bringing in an expert who can take readings and provide an assessment.
I understand better now, thanksI Ironside said:
Hehe, I will probably have a hard time calming my mind for so long, so it will likely be necessary to get an expert here to do a little analysis, figure out where the radon is coming from, and then do a new measurement. A long-term measurement can be done until May.
Yes, there is much else that could have caused respiratory problems, and it might not have anything to do with the house. Going through the ventilation system is probably a good idea regardless.
Hi, haven't read the entire thread but here's what I wrote in another thread:
check out SGU's website. there you can see radon conditions in Sweden
"did long-term measurement, pucks, in a house, basement and blåbetong upstairs.
gave a value of 350-400 in many places in the house.. the guideline value is under 200
when we had the house viewing, there was some uncertainty with the buyer, so I brought in a measuring expert. after about 2 hours, he concluded that there was a leak from the ground in the pantry. just brick on gravel, no concrete slab there (60s house). measurement value in the pantry was 1000.
he used a so-called "sniffer"
got a written action plan and the buyer felt secure. They poured a floor in the pantry and sealed a few places.
blåbetong can have high values, but it depends on where it was produced. in this case, it was not a problem
check out SGU's website. there you can see radon conditions in Sweden
"did long-term measurement, pucks, in a house, basement and blåbetong upstairs.
gave a value of 350-400 in many places in the house.. the guideline value is under 200
when we had the house viewing, there was some uncertainty with the buyer, so I brought in a measuring expert. after about 2 hours, he concluded that there was a leak from the ground in the pantry. just brick on gravel, no concrete slab there (60s house). measurement value in the pantry was 1000.
he used a so-called "sniffer"
got a written action plan and the buyer felt secure. They poured a floor in the pantry and sealed a few places.
blåbetong can have high values, but it depends on where it was produced. in this case, it was not a problem
Maybe I should buy myself one of those RadonEye. It's probably best to leave the rest of the measurements to an expert.PeterFalun said: