Hello!
I have a two-room apartment that I'd like to convert into a three-room one. The room I plan to split is perfect for this; it's a corner room that already has two doors, so both parts will have a window and a door, and there's no need to install a door in the new wall.
The old room has parquet flooring that is quite worn but not completely terrible, so if possible, I would like to keep it, although it would need sanding.
Question #1: new wall on existing floor - how do you practically do this? Do you place the wall on the floor as it is, or do you cut the parquet and place the wall down on the concrete?
(This question might be incredibly stupid. I'll admit that.)
Question #2: materials. One of the rooms will be an office/studio, so the new wall needs to be soundproof and able to support a giant whiteboard. What materials should be used? The ceiling height is 270 cm, and the wall will be 3.5 m long.
Thank you,
/Uffe
I have a two-room apartment that I'd like to convert into a three-room one. The room I plan to split is perfect for this; it's a corner room that already has two doors, so both parts will have a window and a door, and there's no need to install a door in the new wall.
The old room has parquet flooring that is quite worn but not completely terrible, so if possible, I would like to keep it, although it would need sanding.
Question #1: new wall on existing floor - how do you practically do this? Do you place the wall on the floor as it is, or do you cut the parquet and place the wall down on the concrete?
(This question might be incredibly stupid. I'll admit that.)
Question #2: materials. One of the rooms will be an office/studio, so the new wall needs to be soundproof and able to support a giant whiteboard. What materials should be used? The ceiling height is 270 cm, and the wall will be 3.5 m long.
Thank you,
/Uffe
I would probably have placed the new wall on top of the parquet floor.
Who knows when it might be time to remove the wall again
Sealing strips in EPDM rubber under the bottom beam for soundproofing.
And then plywood + plasterboard as wall material on both sides, with insulation in between.
If the whiteboard is very heavy and you already know the dimensions, you can add extra studs for this,
but otherwise, the plywood should surely handle all the load.
Floor: It's probably easiest to sand and varnish it before the wall is installed.
It's the edges that take the most time.
I don't think there are any stupid questions!
Soon you might get sensible answers from people who know better than I do too.
And welcome to the Bygga Hus forum Uffe
Who knows when it might be time to remove the wall again
Sealing strips in EPDM rubber under the bottom beam for soundproofing.
And then plywood + plasterboard as wall material on both sides, with insulation in between.
If the whiteboard is very heavy and you already know the dimensions, you can add extra studs for this,
but otherwise, the plywood should surely handle all the load.
Floor: It's probably easiest to sand and varnish it before the wall is installed.
It's the edges that take the most time.
I don't think there are any stupid questions!
Soon you might get sensible answers from people who know better than I do too.
And welcome to the Bygga Hus forum Uffe
For insulation, "Isover Piano" is suitable as it is designed for soundproofing. Otherwise, I completely agree with KnockOnWood.
I would probably use metal studs for simplicity, a 70mm stud with OSB+gypsum on each side gives a wall of 120mm with very good soundproofing. If you don't intend to hang anything heavy on one side of the wall, you can opt for double gypsum on that side for additional soundproofing if considered important.
A tip when you live in an apartment is to use stud spacing of 45cc and 900mm panels, which are slightly easier to carry and handle in stairwells.
I would probably use metal studs for simplicity, a 70mm stud with OSB+gypsum on each side gives a wall of 120mm with very good soundproofing. If you don't intend to hang anything heavy on one side of the wall, you can opt for double gypsum on that side for additional soundproofing if considered important.
A tip when you live in an apartment is to use stud spacing of 45cc and 900mm panels, which are slightly easier to carry and handle in stairwells.
One advantage of wooden studs is that you can cut them 5-8mm too long and force them in with a hammer. With EPDM rubber under the floor stud, you clamp them between the floor and ceiling, avoiding the need to screw into the floor.