Has anyone else besides me noticed that pre-drilled standard frames seem to have holes placed 30mm from the front edge of the frame? So that the door (when closed) covers screws/plastic plugs. But doors are usually left open (except closets and toilets).
So the purpose of it being covered by the door feels a bit weak. However, you reach far out on the stud when building with double boards, e.g., OSB and plasterboard.
What's the point of it being pre-drilled there? It could just as easily be in the middle of the frame, where it is "thick."
Follow-up question, when you've inserted frame sleeves (from the outside) and adjusted the frame, you must be so precise that the screw hits the middle of the sleeve. Otherwise, the frame risks sliding away. Is there any trick here? Or can you use the frame drill to guide the screw slightly, but just gently, as you don't want to drive it into the sleeve and dull it...?
So the purpose of it being covered by the door feels a bit weak. However, you reach far out on the stud when building with double boards, e.g., OSB and plasterboard.
What's the point of it being pre-drilled there? It could just as easily be in the middle of the frame, where it is "thick."
Follow-up question, when you've inserted frame sleeves (from the outside) and adjusted the frame, you must be so precise that the screw hits the middle of the sleeve. Otherwise, the frame risks sliding away. Is there any trick here? Or can you use the frame drill to guide the screw slightly, but just gently, as you don't want to drive it into the sleeve and dull it...?
If you build interior walls with 45x70 and double boards, use 45x95 in the door opening. This way, you have something to screw the frame into. The first layer of boards is pushed against the 45x95 beam and the second is placed on top. The only downside is that double beams are needed at the opening, but this also means the electrical boxes are further from the frame and don't collide with the door casings.
I never pre-drill when I screw in frame sleeves, but I usually only use them in concrete or brick walls; in wooden walls, it's faster with ordinary frame screws. Gothia has a frame screw called Framequick which is excellent for interior doors.
I never pre-drill when I screw in frame sleeves, but I usually only use them in concrete or brick walls; in wooden walls, it's faster with ordinary frame screws. Gothia has a frame screw called Framequick which is excellent for interior doors.
Ok, good tips with the reglar, just a bit late now 
I've used karmskruv before, but so many praise karmhylsa that I wanted to try it.
So I bought it, and that's how it will be, it's just a bit of a learning curve...
Framquick was smart, adjusting on the screw instead of the sleeve, so you don't have to drill up all the "half-drilled" holes as well.
Only 8 doors left now...
I've used karmskruv before, but so many praise karmhylsa that I wanted to try it.
So I bought it, and that's how it will be, it's just a bit of a learning curve...
Framquick was smart, adjusting on the screw instead of the sleeve, so you don't have to drill up all the "half-drilled" holes as well.
Only 8 doors left now...