I have drilled holes on the top of a flat wall. There, post shoes (U, 73mm) with chemical anchors are to be placed, and then a 70x70 pressure-treated post in the post shoe. The post shoe has a 20cm long rod, and I wonder if part of the rod should stick up above the stone or if it can be set so deep that the underside of the post shoe lies against the stone (and the rod is completely hidden)?
I have a similar question regarding the post. I plan to set it all the way down into the post shoe unless that's a bad idea for some reason.
Basically, I'm wondering - is there a need for a gap and if so, where?
Related question: Do I need to treat the top and bottom of the pressure-treated posts with anything? The top will be exposed to air and rain, and the bottom will rest against the post shoe if no one objects to that.
Thanks in advance!
I have a similar question regarding the post. I plan to set it all the way down into the post shoe unless that's a bad idea for some reason.
Basically, I'm wondering - is there a need for a gap and if so, where?
Related question: Do I need to treat the top and bottom of the pressure-treated posts with anything? The top will be exposed to air and rain, and the bottom will rest against the post shoe if no one objects to that.
Thanks in advance!
What you want to avoid is the post constantly getting damp. If there's such a risk, I would raise the post shoe a bit.
How far down you place the galvanized post shoe doesn't matter for its function. As long as the galvanization is intact, it is rust-protected.
Not the underside, in any case. I have rarely seen end grain sticking straight up. It's probably not for rot risk, but maybe so that rain doesn't mechanically wear out the post. I actually don't know. It could be for aesthetic reasons or out of tradition because untreated wood can't handle it. If you make the top pointed, it should be fine.
How far down you place the galvanized post shoe doesn't matter for its function. As long as the galvanization is intact, it is rust-protected.
Not the underside, in any case. I have rarely seen end grain sticking straight up. It's probably not for rot risk, but maybe so that rain doesn't mechanically wear out the post. I actually don't know. It could be for aesthetic reasons or out of tradition because untreated wood can't handle it. If you make the top pointed, it should be fine.
Thanks for the response!
How much is a bit? A centimeter? So possibly a gap between the bottom of the post support and the wall, but the underside of the post can rest directly on the bottom of the post support - did I understand correctly?
The reason I was thinking of lowering the support to the maximum was to increase stability, but it might not make much of a difference.
Maybe I should add a post cap to protect the top of the post. I'll see if I can find something that matches the overall look. The posts are part of a simple fence with horizontal slats. Otherwise, I'll cut it at an angle!
I see there's a lot of talk about oiling end grain in other threads but haven't quite figured out what oil to use and the method.
How much is a bit?
A centimeter? So possibly a gap between the bottom of the post support and the wall, but the underside of the post can rest directly on the bottom of the post support - did I understand correctly?The reason I was thinking of lowering the support to the maximum was to increase stability, but it might not make much of a difference.
Maybe I should add a post cap to protect the top of the post. I'll see if I can find something that matches the overall look. The posts are part of a simple fence with horizontal slats. Otherwise, I'll cut it at an angle!
I see there's a lot of talk about oiling end grain in other threads but haven't quite figured out what oil to use and the method.
Yes.
If the wall becomes dry, you can lower it as much as you want. Pressure-treated should not be in contact with soil, for example, or damp concrete. 5 mm should suffice, but there might be a standard for that.
I don't know why pressure-treated is oiled. It's not necessary as far as I know.
If the wall becomes dry, you can lower it as much as you want. Pressure-treated should not be in contact with soil, for example, or damp concrete. 5 mm should suffice, but there might be a standard for that.
I don't know why pressure-treated is oiled. It's not necessary as far as I know.
Your question is valid based on the stability you describe. However, you don't specify how tall your posts will be. I did something similar once and allowed the post anchor to stick up a couple of centimeters in a few places because it was uneven in height. The posts are significantly less stable there. Cast the post anchors all the way down. Regarding your post, I would have had 5 mm of air between the end grain and the post anchor, so the post doesn't unnecessarily absorb the condensation that forms on the post anchor and the rainwater that ends up there when it's windy.
/Torpalainen
/Torpalainen
Thank you for your help!
Here are more details: My four 70x70 posts will be 120cm, 120cm, 105cm, and 90cm (the first one will be anchored to the house facade instead of the wall). I am using Joma post shoes 4x73x70 which have a 20cm long rebar (16mm diameter). I have drilled 20mm holes and bought Biltema's anchor compound to attach the post shoes forever (I hope). The posts are spaced about 160cm apart and onto them I will attach horizontal slats (50-60mm high, with a 50-60mm gap).
The gap between the end wood and the post shoe is actually a bit easier when it comes to getting the post completely straight. In terms of stability – is it "just as stable" to attach the post 5mm up in the post shoe as at the base of the post shoe? I will use 4 French wood screws per post. Actually, I'm not particularly worried about that.
Then I have a question regarding the difference between the dimension of the post shoe (73mm) and the post (70mm). Is there something to consider here, or will it solve itself if you screw alternately from different sides of the post shoe? Does the post shoe bend or will there simply be a gap on the inside of it?
Here are more details: My four 70x70 posts will be 120cm, 120cm, 105cm, and 90cm (the first one will be anchored to the house facade instead of the wall). I am using Joma post shoes 4x73x70 which have a 20cm long rebar (16mm diameter). I have drilled 20mm holes and bought Biltema's anchor compound to attach the post shoes forever (I hope). The posts are spaced about 160cm apart and onto them I will attach horizontal slats (50-60mm high, with a 50-60mm gap).
The gap between the end wood and the post shoe is actually a bit easier when it comes to getting the post completely straight. In terms of stability – is it "just as stable" to attach the post 5mm up in the post shoe as at the base of the post shoe? I will use 4 French wood screws per post. Actually, I'm not particularly worried about that.
Then I have a question regarding the difference between the dimension of the post shoe (73mm) and the post (70mm). Is there something to consider here, or will it solve itself if you screw alternately from different sides of the post shoe? Does the post shoe bend or will there simply be a gap on the inside of it?
The post shoe bends slightly at the top anyway, it has a bit more difficulty doing so at the bottom, you almost have to feel what it feels like. However, I can advise that a through bolt will be stronger, but you can switch to that later if needed.
/Torpalainen
/Torpalainen
Drive the post anchor into the ground for stability.
Don't worry too much about moisture in the end grain, but you can always place a piece of sill seal between the anchor and the post.
A through-bolt and nut is stronger, but it might be harder to get the post plumb if the drill hole is too tight.
Don't worry too much about moisture in the end grain, but you can always place a piece of sill seal between the anchor and the post.
A through-bolt and nut is stronger, but it might be harder to get the post plumb if the drill hole is too tight.