Plug won't adhere to lightweight concrete

[Mikael_L]

Yes, Fischer S is a good plug I have used.
I think Bauhaus may have parts of Fischer's range.

 

[Mikael Aren]

Hi, I'm going to set this up and have a plastered facade, it looks like styrofoam equivalent as insulation, the screw doesn't hold in the plug, it just spins, what do you think one should do in this situation?

 

[snuttjulle]

Just to find a rule within cellplast and plaster.

 

[kniv]

What is the wall made of beneath the plaster? Deeper holes and screws might work if there is something more solid inside. There are plugs without flanges/collars.

 

[Mikael Aren]

What is the wall made of inside the plaster? Deeper holes and screws might work if there is something more durable inside. There are plugs without flanges/collars

Don't really know the inside actually, might try with another plug or use house fix in the hole and try after that.

 

[kniv]

Don't actually know the inside rest, might try with a different plug or use husfix in the hole and try after that

Take a smaller drill bit and test drill to see what comes out?

 

[tommib]

If it's a relatively new house, you should have drawings that tell you what it is there and where the studs are located.

 

[myrstack]

It looks like thin plaster on fiberglass fabric, so it's likely there's an insulation board underneath. What's the structure of the house? Are you completely sure it's lightweight concrete? Otherwise, you'll probably need 150-200mm screws where you'll either use lightweight concrete screws or a normal screw and plug to attach something there. If you also tighten too much, you risk breaking the plaster as the insulation board is usually not very compressive.

 

[Mikael Aren]

Hi, thanks for all the answers I bought long screws with plugs, facade screws, 2 attached well, the other 2 less well, these were 160mm and still too short, I hope it holds, otherwise I don’t know what to do? Longer ones are hardly available.

Regards, Mikael

 

[tttomten]

If it doesn't work, you can mount a board with a larger surface area and more attachment points that you can then mount the hose on. Alternatively, you can always use a through bolt (thread rod).

 

[scopett]

I'm reviving the thread again, and hope you have good advice to offer
I installed two IKEA shelves in my daughter's apartment some time ago. They're the kind that doesn't have any bracket to support them underneath, but rather look like thicker shelves that just protrude from the wall.
Each "bracket" (two for each shelf) was attached with four or five screws into plugs in the wall, but now one of the shelves has fallen down
When I drilled the plugs into the wall, I noticed it was easy to drill, and of course, I used hammer drilling... not good from what I can read in the thread.
But I thought it was a solid concrete wall. The powder that came out while drilling was initially white, and then red powder came out. Probably it was surface plaster initially, and then there seems to be some sort of porous red material behind. However, it didn't behave as if it was hollow brick in the wall.

Now I need to mount the shelf again, but what plugs should I use this time? The holes have probably become somewhat larger when the plugs were torn out of the wall as the shelf came loose.
Then there's a slight problem that it's not possible to mount the brackets with screws that have heads too large for the shelf to slide on and lock onto the brackets again.
Longer screws can be used, but not thicker ones...

Do I need to fill the holes with some sort of compound first? What kind of compound, if so? Or are there good plugs that might fit right into the holes again, and hold the shelf up this time?

Old thread, but how did you solve it? I have the exact same shelf/issue at my daughter's place too But we managed to catch it before it fell. When things started falling off, she got suspicious Silly shelf, it leans downwards a bit since the holes are larger than the pins. It's bound to happen since the breaking force pushes outward.