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2k views
3 replies
Plasterboard screw that might go through plastic in the wall
Hello
I'm putting drywall on all exterior walls because the chipboard, which is joined at the edges around all windows and doors, has cracked quite significantly over the years. So now that I'm renovating, I want to avoid that. The house is from '76 and has a barrier in the walls, feels and looks somewhat like black garbage bags.
I've borrowed a screw gun from a friend and used the drywall screws he had extra and sent with. They are 4 cm. I've done two exterior walls when it hit me that I might have punctured it when I fastened the boards.
Should I tear off the drywall and also the chipboard to replace the plastic on those 2 walls, or maybe repair with tape and use a shorter screw, like 3 cm, and buy a stud finder to hit the studs? Or can I use 3 cm screws if I hit the studs? I'm not good at the "knock" method
If it matters, I have FTX ventilation.
Grateful for quick answers... the work continues this weekend.
I'm putting drywall on all exterior walls because the chipboard, which is joined at the edges around all windows and doors, has cracked quite significantly over the years. So now that I'm renovating, I want to avoid that. The house is from '76 and has a barrier in the walls, feels and looks somewhat like black garbage bags.
I've borrowed a screw gun from a friend and used the drywall screws he had extra and sent with. They are 4 cm. I've done two exterior walls when it hit me that I might have punctured it when I fastened the boards.
Should I tear off the drywall and also the chipboard to replace the plastic on those 2 walls, or maybe repair with tape and use a shorter screw, like 3 cm, and buy a stud finder to hit the studs? Or can I use 3 cm screws if I hit the studs? I'm not good at the "knock" method
If it matters, I have FTX ventilation.
Grateful for quick answers... the work continues this weekend.
Last edited:
I've thought about it a bit more and have decided to let it be as it is and continue as before. Maybe I'll buy the 30mm screw.
The reason for this is that the studs are not evenly spaced with cc60; they vary between 45 and upwards, and in some places, you have to go through to secure it a bit if you're gluing (sometimes it's just 2 studs per sheet, and you still want to secure it at the edges)... then perhaps the plastic isn't 100% anyway since the house is +35 years old... not sure how precise they were back then... the plastic, for example, doesn't go around the windows but stops against the frame itself above and below, no plastic between the windows that are next to each other (about 20cm gap). It's probably not the only place that's lacking. The other thing is that if I adapt the drywall and screws into the studs, the drywall won't overlap the chipboards, and then it won't be long before the drywall cracks in the same places. Then you're back to square one, poorer with the same appearance as before.
I'll just crank up the negative pressure a bit more instead
The reason for this is that the studs are not evenly spaced with cc60; they vary between 45 and upwards, and in some places, you have to go through to secure it a bit if you're gluing (sometimes it's just 2 studs per sheet, and you still want to secure it at the edges)... then perhaps the plastic isn't 100% anyway since the house is +35 years old... not sure how precise they were back then... the plastic, for example, doesn't go around the windows but stops against the frame itself above and below, no plastic between the windows that are next to each other (about 20cm gap). It's probably not the only place that's lacking. The other thing is that if I adapt the drywall and screws into the studs, the drywall won't overlap the chipboards, and then it won't be long before the drywall cracks in the same places. Then you're back to square one, poorer with the same appearance as before.
I'll just crank up the negative pressure a bit more instead
We talked about this in a thread yesterday: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggma...or-direkt-pa-spanskivor-utan-regel-bakom.html
Otherwise, you probably don't need to tear up everything you've done, considering the original design and FTX...the risk of moisture damage is likely not very high, just a bit more cold air coming in through the walls... but you shouldn't continue making more holes in the plastic
Otherwise, you probably don't need to tear up everything you've done, considering the original design and FTX...the risk of moisture damage is likely not very high, just a bit more cold air coming in through the walls... but you shouldn't continue making more holes in the plastic
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