Are there any good tips when picking studs to get strong stuff?
C24 is apparently not sorted together with C30 according to what I've read, so that means a pile of C24 at the store should contain C24 and upwards. I look at "tight" between the rings and the weight of the stud, but I'm not sure if there's such a big difference. However, I find that dense studs are often more crooked/twisted than the lighter ones...
Some studs do noticeably weigh less than others... and an old stud in the house is significantly heavier...
C24 is apparently not sorted together with C30 according to what I've read, so that means a pile of C24 at the store should contain C24 and upwards. I look at "tight" between the rings and the weight of the stud, but I'm not sure if there's such a big difference. However, I find that dense studs are often more crooked/twisted than the lighter ones...
Some studs do noticeably weigh less than others... and an old stud in the house is significantly heavier...
Avoid studs containing the heart (the center of the tree). Otherwise, look for straight ones without damage.
Thought it was good to see the core of the rule but as mentioned, they are rarely straight so they get ruled out because of that.
Weight/moisture was a good point but I thought all the reglar were dried down to a certain level +- some %.
Weight/moisture was a good point but I thought all the reglar were dried down to a certain level +- some %.
You wrote it yourself. Sticks with the heart hit quite unpleasantly, they tend to spin around the heart. Then they have a tendency to crack around the heart but that might not make any difference in strength.
No point in trying to sort studs that way. Sure, if you're going to build furniture out of them, then there's a point, otherwise choose the straightest studs and if they are all straight, choose the ones with the least knots.
Sorting into strength classes is done mechanically, primarily based on how many knots they contain.
Straight fibers without knots are crucial for strength. Dense growth rings do not necessarily mean that the wood is stronger, although with conifers it often does. With hardwoods, it’s the opposite.
Sorting into strength classes is done mechanically, primarily based on how many knots they contain.
Straight fibers without knots are crucial for strength. Dense growth rings do not necessarily mean that the wood is stronger, although with conifers it often does. With hardwoods, it’s the opposite.
Not generally. It applies to, for example, oak and ash. For other types of wood, it hardly has any impact, but it is stronger with tighter rings.
If we're being picky (which you seem to be), it's not the density of the rings that matters but rather the amount of earlywood in relation to the amount of latewood. Latewood is stronger than earlywood.D Daniel 109 said:
In oak and ash yes, but not generally.
From https://www.traguiden.se/om-tra/materialet-tra/traets-uppbyggnad/traets-uppbyggnad/arsringar/
Earlywood and Latewood
In the cross-section of the trunk, you can see light and dark rings, so-called annual rings. The light rings are earlywood, that is, wood formed during the spring and early summer. This wood has thin-walled weak fibers with low density and high liquid permeability.
The darker rings are latewood. It is wood formed during the summer and early autumn. The fibers in this wood have thick and strong fiber walls with a density three times higher than the earlywood. Additionally, the latewood fibers have low liquid permeability.
Annual Ring Width
The number of annual rings in the stump indicates the tree's age. The width of the annual rings shows how fast the tree has grown. The tree's growth rate and thus the width of the annual rings depend on genetic traits, soil fertility, and the local climate - temperature, light, and especially precipitation. Additionally, the management of the forest, that is, the number of thinnings and prunings, and how severe these are at each intervention, have a decisive impact on the width of the annual rings.
A tree that has been allowed to develop freely has the widest annual rings near the pith, with the width gradually decreasing towards the bark. After a thinning or pruning, you can see leaps in the development of the annual rings. This is because the tree has gained access to more nutrients and more sunlight when the neighboring trees have been removed. Years with little precipitation result in narrower annual rings than rainy years. Generally, the width of the annual rings decreases the further north you go in Sweden. This is due to the colder climate and thereby a shorter growing season. Despite this, the strength of the southern Swedish coniferous wood is just as good as the northern Swedish. This is because the proportion of heavy latewood in the annual ring is greater in the southern Swedish trees given the same annual ring width.
EDIT: And the above is about conifers in general.
Earlywood and Latewood
In the cross-section of the trunk, you can see light and dark rings, so-called annual rings. The light rings are earlywood, that is, wood formed during the spring and early summer. This wood has thin-walled weak fibers with low density and high liquid permeability.
The darker rings are latewood. It is wood formed during the summer and early autumn. The fibers in this wood have thick and strong fiber walls with a density three times higher than the earlywood. Additionally, the latewood fibers have low liquid permeability.
Annual Ring Width
The number of annual rings in the stump indicates the tree's age. The width of the annual rings shows how fast the tree has grown. The tree's growth rate and thus the width of the annual rings depend on genetic traits, soil fertility, and the local climate - temperature, light, and especially precipitation. Additionally, the management of the forest, that is, the number of thinnings and prunings, and how severe these are at each intervention, have a decisive impact on the width of the annual rings.
A tree that has been allowed to develop freely has the widest annual rings near the pith, with the width gradually decreasing towards the bark. After a thinning or pruning, you can see leaps in the development of the annual rings. This is because the tree has gained access to more nutrients and more sunlight when the neighboring trees have been removed. Years with little precipitation result in narrower annual rings than rainy years. Generally, the width of the annual rings decreases the further north you go in Sweden. This is due to the colder climate and thereby a shorter growing season. Despite this, the strength of the southern Swedish coniferous wood is just as good as the northern Swedish. This is because the proportion of heavy latewood in the annual ring is greater in the southern Swedish trees given the same annual ring width.
EDIT: And the above is about conifers in general.
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Okay, we are both wrong. I mixed up the wood terminology. But different types of wood have different strength distribution.
Conifers have the highest strength if they grow slowly. For most deciduous trees, it hardly has any impact at all, while, for example, oak and ash get better strength if they grow quickly.
Conifers have the highest strength if they grow slowly. For most deciduous trees, it hardly has any impact at all, while, for example, oak and ash get better strength if they grow quickly.
Yes, neither of us is probably completely right. However, it seems quite different depending on which source you look at when it comes to the strength of coniferous trees. What I cited above says (about coniferous trees):D Daniel 109 said:
"In general, the ring width decreases the further north you go in Sweden. This is due to the cooler climate and hence a shorter growing season. Despite this, the strength of the coniferous wood from southern Sweden is just as good as that from northern Sweden. This is because the proportion of heavy summer wood in the annual ring is greater in the southern Swedish trees given the same ring width."