Paper strips under filler that come loose... how to fix easily?

[AndersS]

I feel doubtful that you lose so much "reinforcement effect." My gut feeling says that the joint becomes about as strong as the rest of the gypsum board.

I live in an old house that has also been filled with a lot of new timber. That is, the worst possible conditions. I see no problems with these strips anywhere. It has worked 100% perfectly.

Of course, you should do it in the way that suits you and your house.
However, objectively highlighting the advantages and disadvantages of different solutions when giving advice to others is important so that they can rely on their own "gut feeling" about what they believe will work for their house and make their choice.
And as I've written earlier, "these problems barely exist and are negligible" in certain constructions, so one should consider what is appropriate in each situation.

 

[Johan Gunverth]

this has been discussed many times on the forum and a conclusion from it is that

1. Gluing the paper strips with wet room glue is an established method that is easy for us amateurs to perform and impossible to fail with.
2. Glued strips in this way do not seem to create more cracks than other alternatives, so there is no reason to try to embed the strips wet-on-wet in putty.

But of course, everyone does as they wish.

Almost as hot a debate as the one about which board should be placed behind the gypsum.

It is important that the glue is not water-soluble. Wallpaper glue does not work. Wet room glue as you mention or extra strong fabric glue is suitable.
Of course, you prime/fill the gypsum joint with board filler, which should dry before the first layer of glue. It is the joint, not the entire recessed long side, that should be filled. Otherwise, there is a risk that the paper strip might bend inward in the joint when the house moves.

 

[MathiasS]

Of course, you should do it in the way that you feel suits you and your house. However, one should objectively highlight the advantages and disadvantages of different solutions when giving advice to others so that they can use their "gut feeling" to decide what they believe will work for their house and make their choice. And as I have written before "these problems hardly exist and are non-existent" with certain constructions, so one should consider what is appropriate in each case.

Anders, explain to me why a cast-in-place paper strip becomes significantly stronger than a fully glued strip specifically with respect to shear?

 

[AndersS]

Anders, explain to me why an embedded paper strip becomes significantly stronger than a fully glued strip specifically in terms of shear?

Check this link to YBG. I am inserting the page with "Q&A" where it is explained under "Can you glue the strip over the joint".
http://www.ybg.nu/artikel.php
And then there is some documentation on other pages about recommendations and under contact also who is behind it, both plasterboard manufacturers, the Painters' Association, etc.
If you want to delve deeper, you can read their regulations. They are recommendations, but if you encounter problems, there is something to refer to.

 

[anders07]

I conclude from the discussion that it seems to be preferable to use paper tape, but first apply a thin layer of joint compound and then glue the tape with a waterproof adhesive (such as wet room adhesive), and then apply joint compound as usual over it... right?

In my case, they have glued with regular fabric adhesive directly onto the drywall... so it doesn't work! >(

//Anders

 

[MathiasS]

YBG was a good initiative - I wasn't aware of that before. Exactly what we want to see for several different areas in the industry.

This is what YBG says about gluing:

ANSWER: When filling recessed seams, the tape should always be placed in filler. For seams that are cut without recess, it is advantageous to glue the tape after the first filling. See page 27, sections 6.3.1 and 6.3.2.

I get the feeling that glued tape works quite well when I read this. But, curious as one is, you turn to page 27.

Here it says:

In 6.3.1, it describes how to fill a joint with a recessed edge. Here it describes how to place tape in filler.

Then I read in 6.3.2, which describes how to handle joints with a cut edge. Here it describes how to apply tape with fabric glue.

It thus seems that recessed edges should have tape in filler and cut edges should have tape in glue.

 

[MathiasS]

...but then I read even more in 6.3.2 and it says:

The above processing sequence can also be applied to recessed edges if you instead want to glue the strip.

So if you want, it seems just as good to glue recessed edges. Does this analysis seem correct?

 

[MathiasS]

...and when I read a little more, I see that YBG also recommends a glued strip when the joint has become a bit too wide. That doesn't quite indicate that this is an inferior method.

AndersS - which parts of YBG have you actually read?

I guess I'll have to eat my words with these three posts, since I've only read page 27, but I'll offer that up. Maybe we'll learn something in the process.....

 

[AndersS]

I have received descriptions from a relative on how to do it and why.
When I then asked how to know if you were doing it right, he referred to YBG's website since he works in the painting industry and wants something to "hold on to" in certain customer dialogues. The painter does not know how it looks under the board material but can show that agreed industry methods have been followed if there should still be cracks due to the underlying construction.
But what he also says is that some tapes are downright bad to work with when embedding.
A good tape sticks to the filler, and then the material in it should rise a little so that it becomes like small barbs embedded in the filler to make it optimal. If cracks should then occur, it is at the joint between filler and board that it gives way, not in the filled part with the tape.
This is how it has been explained to me; I have probably exhausted my knowledge now

 

[MathiasS]

But agree that YBG says that a glued strip is okay and in some situations even preferable to a filled strip? And that there wasn't much wrong with the gut feeling?

And given this, the choice of method is quite simple for the DIY enthusiast. It's difficult to fill in a strip and super easy to glue it in place. It's just a pity that Anders07's carpenter used the wrong glue.

 

[Snailman]

Apparently, the strip has a front and a back side, the roll's outside should be against the wall...

 

[Mikael_L]

And given this, the choice of method is quite simple for the DIY enthusiast. It's difficult to putty in a strip and really easy to glue it in place

Now I don't understand, I thought it was really easy to secure the strip directly in the putty.

 

[MathiasS]

That's because you are so incredibly uberhändig, which the rest of us are not.....

 

[jbj74]

A J-Spackel should be used when securing the paper tape.

An example of a filler I have used:
http://www.beckers.se/proffs/produkter/inomhusprodukter/spackel-fog/breplasta-j/

 

[pyro]

To further confuse the discussion a bit, I'll mention a tip I received at my paint store regarding attaching strips to putty. They suggested cutting strips to the appropriate length and then soaking them for ten to fifteen minutes before applying them. This makes it a little easier to attach them to the putty without getting air bubbles underneath. I used this method the last time I applied strips and thought it worked well. However, I don't know what the industry standard says about this method. Nor do I really know how well it holds up in the long term (yet). But it was at least easy to apply the strips using this method.