Hi!
Renovating the summer cottage and it's time to clad the inside of the exterior walls. The choice has fallen on paneling in the form of tongue and groove boards, like raw pine. Some pre-painted variants are as thin as 14 mm and the question is if it will be too flimsy when hanging up a TV, bookshelves, etc. Should I put OSB first? Regular raw pine is about 20 mm, would that be enough without OSB?
Should I install OSB regardless, to provide stability to the wall? Vertical 45x95, horizontal fjällpanel on the outside. Diagonal braces are present in both sections at each corner. Previously there was just some form of semi-porous fiberboard on the inside, (tretex, can it be called that?) and the house has stood since the 50s...
Best regards,
ToRy
Renovating the summer cottage and it's time to clad the inside of the exterior walls. The choice has fallen on paneling in the form of tongue and groove boards, like raw pine. Some pre-painted variants are as thin as 14 mm and the question is if it will be too flimsy when hanging up a TV, bookshelves, etc. Should I put OSB first? Regular raw pine is about 20 mm, would that be enough without OSB?
Should I install OSB regardless, to provide stability to the wall? Vertical 45x95, horizontal fjällpanel on the outside. Diagonal braces are present in both sections at each corner. Previously there was just some form of semi-porous fiberboard on the inside, (tretex, can it be called that?) and the house has stood since the 50s...
Best regards,
ToRy
I would have put OSB behind myself, mostly because I think it's easier to do it when you have the opportunity, than to become uncertain if, for example, the TV will stay on the wall if you've skimped..
Then I can't answer if it makes a big difference, or if it's more of a placebo effect!
Then I can't answer if it makes a big difference, or if it's more of a placebo effect!
OSB is good for the wall's load-bearing capacity, but if it is unheated part of the year, the OSB should not be screwed edge to edge; instead, leave a small gap around the entire board (a few mm 1/2 cm is enough) as it can "swell" a bit with moisture/weather changes. Then it is recommended to use batten strips on the OSB and then attach the panel to the battens and not directly to the OSB board! Good luck with the construction!
If the cabin is from the 50s, it might be time to check the electricity!
Maybe it's time to recess it into the walls?
If you do, don't forget to protect drilled holes in the studs with metal strips to minimize the risk of nailing or screwing into the wires!
Maybe it's time to recess it into the walls?
If you do, don't forget to protect drilled holes in the studs with metal strips to minimize the risk of nailing or screwing into the wires!
Thank you for the answers! Some follow-up questions and comments:
Rosen: That's roughly what I'm thinking too, but after all, it is a cost, and it encroaches on an already limited floor space.
Pagno: Why battens on the OSB? Is it for ventilation or for flexibility?
The electricity is completely removed and replaced provisionally. However, I haven't decided how I'll do it in the end. No electricity in the insulation anyway. Either grooved into the floor list/wall panel/OSB in some way, surface-mounted, or between panel boards and wind fabric. It must be easy to change/move outlets and so on since we will likely be adding on and changing the use of certain rooms eventually.
Oldboy: We put raw pine tongue and groove in the toilet cabin, but when we painted, the fibers rose, and now we have a pin cushion everywhere, hard, sharp splinters up to a centimeter are not fun to scrape against... I've considered painting once, then sanding off what sticks out, and then painting one or two more times. A lot of extra work but on the other hand, pre-painted rough paneling is about 7000:- more expensive than raw pine (not counting paint and extra work) so it might be worth it...
Rosen: That's roughly what I'm thinking too, but after all, it is a cost, and it encroaches on an already limited floor space.
Pagno: Why battens on the OSB? Is it for ventilation or for flexibility?
The electricity is completely removed and replaced provisionally. However, I haven't decided how I'll do it in the end. No electricity in the insulation anyway. Either grooved into the floor list/wall panel/OSB in some way, surface-mounted, or between panel boards and wind fabric. It must be easy to change/move outlets and so on since we will likely be adding on and changing the use of certain rooms eventually.
Oldboy: We put raw pine tongue and groove in the toilet cabin, but when we painted, the fibers rose, and now we have a pin cushion everywhere, hard, sharp splinters up to a centimeter are not fun to scrape against...
I've considered painting once, then sanding off what sticks out, and then painting one or two more times. A lot of extra work but on the other hand, pre-painted rough paneling is about 7000:- more expensive than raw pine (not counting paint and extra work) so it might be worth it...Just because if you nail paneling onto OSB boards in a house that's cold for parts of the year, the board moves more than the paneling! It can easily cause the paneling to bunch up, like an accordion, though not as bad. So the answer is for mobility!
wood boards should never screws edge to edge.
okay then glued chipboard floors and the like.
and yes. should have placed osb baokm
okay then glued chipboard floors and the like.
and yes. should have placed osb baokm
Did you put the sawn side facing the room?!
Now, in fairness, råspont isn't the most finely planed surface even on the planed side, but 1 cm long splinters aren't present to any significant extent, right?
Anyway, when painting solid wood, sanding after the first and usually the second coat is always included, unless it's really finely planed/planed. That's if you want it really smooth. However, I've never encountered 1 cm splinters except on rough-sawn timber.
Now, in fairness, råspont isn't the most finely planed surface even on the planed side, but 1 cm long splinters aren't present to any significant extent, right?
Anyway, when painting solid wood, sanding after the first and usually the second coat is always included, unless it's really finely planed/planed. That's if you want it really smooth. However, I've never encountered 1 cm splinters except on rough-sawn timber.