Opening in exterior wall

[justusandersson]

Absolutely.

 

[Anonymiserad 122206]

The question is a bit OT, but how is it that glulam is made in 42, 56, 90, 115, 140 mm, when standard dimensions for studs are 45, 70, 95, 120, 145 etc?

For us simple consumers, it would have been fantastic if the items matched each other from the start?

 

[justusandersson]

I don't have the full explanation, but some pieces. The smaller glue-laminated timber thicknesses, 42, 56, etc., arise from the splitting of 90, 115, 140, and 165 mm thick beams. Glue-laminated timber is never manufactured narrower than 90 mm. The measurement 90 probably originated as a trimming + planing of 100 mm, i.e., 4 inches, wide lamellas, but I'm not entirely sure about that. The difference between 90, 115, etc., is 25 mm, i.e., 1 inch. The standard timber dimensions are also the result of sawing and planing margins, starting from inch-based rough-sawn timber. Until a bit into the 1970s, timber dimensions (except for length) were always specified in inch measurements.

 

[bossespecial]

Yes. With these examples that @Workingclasshero has provided, the steel will likely be twice as expensive, depending a bit on the dimensions chosen for the glulam. A glulam beam that is as narrow and high as possible is always the most cost-effective. The cost of glulam is generally proportional to its volume. The price of steel is based on the weight.

Isn't the weight also proportional to the volume
Great job getting a solution in wood, it will be much easier to implement

 

[justusandersson]

Sure, Bosse, weight is also a function of volume. In my ambition to express myself simply, it may have become too simple. What I meant is that when it comes to steel, you are bound to certain profile types, IPE, HEA, etc., and can only play with the height which changes properties. With glulam, a dimension, e.g., 90x315, can be replaced with 140x270, with essentially the same properties. There is an opportunity to work with both height and width.

 

[Derbyboy]

What do you think about kertobalk? I mean if I'm going to cover it anyway.

PS

Have established contact with several suppliers for sliding doors. Leaning towards 2x3000mm.

 

[Derbyboy]

Glued laminated timber beam 75X300mm has the following values Vkn 41.00 and kN M 33.00

Glued laminated timber 90x315mm has the following values Vkn 36.29 and kN M 31.29

Source: https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...dimensionerande-barformaga/?previousState=100

Both beams cost 350-410 SEK/meter for 12 meters.

 

[fixarpelle]

Now you have quite a bit of space, so an IPE or HEA can fit, otherwise, when you have smaller spaces, there is HEB but also the often forgotten HEM that I have used a few times.
Personally, I would probably look for kerto beams (veneer beam) instead, which can be obtained in the desired dimension.

 

[Derbyboy]

Fixarpelle, we have turned ourselves inside out to avoid stplbalkar. After much blood, sweat, and tears, we have concluded that 90x315mm glulam with a center post will be perfect.

Yesterday, I decided to compare glulam vs kerto and concluded that kerto (LVL beam) is somewhat better, especially in terms of weight for a comparable glulam beam.

 

[justusandersson]

I would definitely choose glulam over Kerto in this case because you need to be able to attach frames for the windows (the side pieces where the frame will sit) to the side of the beams. Glulam becomes simpler and more manageable.

 

[Derbyboy]

Problem!

This is what it says on the sliding door manufacturer's website:

Placement in the Wall
A prerequisite for the construction to meet the requirements for good energy efficiency and comfort is that the sliding door is placed in the warm part of the wall. This means placing it as far into the wall as possible, which gives many advantages.

It provides good conditions for strong anchoring and a well-functioning seal. The risk of condensation decreases with a higher surface temperature. The joint between the frame profile and the wall should be made as a two-stage seal. This involves an outer rain cap with a behind air channel, packing with mineral wool, and an internal seal as a diffusion barrier.

I had intended to place the beam and post inside the glass system, i.e., the system would end up on the cold side of the wall.

If I were to set it according to the manufacturer's recommendations, it would mean

From outside:

Insulation 10 cm
Glued laminated timber 9 cm
Frame 12.5 cm

I had thought:

Insulation (on top) and frame (below) 12.5 cm
Glued laminated timber 9 cm

hmm! comments?

 

[justusandersson]

Frankly speaking, I think it's a bit of wordplay. The sliding door unit is 2x6 meters, so there isn't much more wall. It seems to be a more general text. But naturally, it's just as fine to place the sliding doors inside the glulam beam. In that case, I think the glulam beam should primarily be insulated on the inside. In your case, with the large roof overhang that covers the entire facade, the sliding doors are still very protected. You probably use the space more efficiently if the sliding doors are outside the glulam beam. I don't think it has much significance from any other perspective.

 

[Derbyboy]

Justus = rock

Felt that way too.....but wanted to double-check

 

[Derbyboy]

I have now moved forward and will soon apply for a building permit. It is not proportionate for the municipality to require a site plan for 1,000 SEK to make a construction notification. Especially, as in this case, when the notification concerns a load-bearing wall replacement.

 

[bossespecial]

I completely agree! I questioned this when I was making a couple of new openings at home and I didn't have to attach this in the notification. Whether it was correct or not, I don't know. But it might always be worth a try