E Ekerz said:
Shouldn't floor layers be able to lay floors? Is it really up to you to have to troubleshoot?
The floor layer thinks there's a problem with the floor, the floor supplier hasn't bothered to get back in touch yet.

I feel that an Independent expert should take charge, and the others can follow suit after his statement đŸ€·â€â™€ïž
 
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P Peter Petterson said:
The floor installer thinks there is something wrong with the floor, the floor supplier has not bothered to respond yet.

I feel that an independent expert should take charge of the situation, and then the others should follow his assessment đŸ€·â€â™€ïž
In your pictures, it at least looks like the floor has a proper distance to the wall.
If it’s the parquet itself that's causing trouble and you need to complain to the floor manufacturer, it's probably going to be an uphill battle, at least according to my limited experience.
 
D Danne213 said:
In your pictures, it at least looks like the floor has an okay distance to the wall. If it's the parquet itself that's causing trouble and you need to make a claim against the floor manufacturer, it's probably going to be an uphill battle, at least according to my limited experience.
Yes, it's probably not the easiest, but if I get an independent statement from the inspector that the floor is the culprit, it should put pressure on Bygg Max.

If they still resist, I'll proceed at my own expense and then go to the Consumer Disputes Board and then to court if necessary.

I have the money I can advance, but I still want it to be absolutely clear who is responsible.

I have a good dialogue with the carpenter, and if the responsibility falls on him, he'll get moving and fix it at his own expense/his liability insurance!
 
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P Peter Petterson said:
Yes, it's probably not the easiest, but if I get an independent opinion from the inspector that the floor is the culprit, it should put pressure on Bygg Max.

If they are still dragging their feet, I'll proceed on my own account and then go to ARN and then further to the district court if necessary.

I have money I can advance, but I still want it without doubt to be clear who is responsible.

I have a good dialogue with the carpenter, and if the responsibility falls on him, he will get started and fix it on his own account or his liability insurance!
They might claim that the cause is improper handling of the floor, and you might have difficulty proving that it has actually been handled correctly, I'm afraid.
 
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Erikjensen82
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X Jeppan said:
They might claim that the cause is improper handling of the floor and you're going to have a hard time proving that it has actually been handled correctly, I'm afraid.
It is quite easy to prove handling since there have been on average 4 craftsmen in the house per day for almost 5 months plus other random people.

How could the floor have been handled incorrectly?

Picked up at Byggmax, carried into the house and distributed the floors across the three levels. They stayed there for 2 weeks before installation started on the top level.

How could the floor have been handled incorrectly?

I will of course follow the independent inspector's statement. I’m just the payer/orderer in this mess.

The carpenter has installed the floor, the subfloor, and laid the pipes for underfloor heating. The plumber has connected everything according to the rules of the art, and I have paid the invoices.

The inspector's statement is what will carry the most weight regardless of what the floor layer or floor supplier says, and they will eventually have to follow suit and redo the work at their own or their insurance's expense!
 
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Dr Benz Dr Benz said:
Do you have a 360 laser? If so, you can set it up to see if the floor is even or not. Without load. Because if the floor is even and the framework is even, it can only be the floor chipboard (very unlikely) or sheets/pipes that aren't laid properly against.
It must be significantly easier with a straight edge than to set up a laser and try to measure differences of a few mm without loading the floor?
 
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useless useless said:
Must be significantly easier with a straight edge than to set up a laser and try to measure differences of a few mm without putting weight on the floor?
Maybe. But on the other hand, you can set up a laser along one wall and then, for example, measure around the others and possibly in the middle. Then you shouldn't step on the affected area. You can also get a fairly good idea of how much it gives WHEN you put weight on it.
 
Hi. What is the name of the floor? Do you have a picture of it? What kind of locking system is it?
Doesn't KĂ€hrs want to come out and check?
I have two guys who are floor layers, and they think that either it's laid incorrectly or there's something wrong with the floor. Like the floor isn't fitting together properly. Otherwise, you wouldn't get that spring. That there are sometimes short start or end pieces matters less, even if the floor isn't 100% straight. Many houses are like that, old and new. I would try to get KĂ€hrs to come and look at it. I hope it gets resolved.
 
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Aajnor Aajnor said:
Hi. What is the name of the floor? Do you have a picture of it? What type of locking system does it use?
Doesn't KĂ€hrs want to come out and check?
I have two guys who are floor layers and they believe it's either incorrectly installed or there's something wrong with the floor. Like the floor isn't fitting together properly. Otherwise, you wouldn't get that springiness. Whether there are short start or end pieces sometimes matters less, even if the floor isn't 100% straight. Many houses aren't, old or new. I would try to get KĂ€hrs to come and look at it. Hope it resolves.
https://www.byggmax.se/parkettgolv-ask-3-stav-stockholm-white-14-mm-barlinek

It's this floor that's been installed, and yes, something is definitely wrong, it will be nice to have it inspected by an authorized inspector and get a clear answer on what the issue is.

I find it hard to believe that the carpenters/floor layers could have made so many mistakes; after all, it's a very skilled carpenter I've hired with a good eye for detail, who has succeeded with everything else.

Window replacements, door replacements, new kitchen, bathrooms x 3, etc.
 
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Roger Fundin
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P Peter Petterson said:
[link]

This is the floor that is laid, yes something is wrong, and it will be nice to have it inspected by an authorized inspector and get black and white on what the fault is.

I find it hard to believe that the carpenters/floor layers could have made so many mistakes; I've hired a very skilled carpenter with good overall judgment who has succeeded well with everything else.

Window replacements, door replacements, new kitchen, bathrooms x 3, etc.
Not questioning the competence of the carpenters. But after almost completely renovating 2 houses and an apartment, I've learned that even if you're skilled, you must be at your best all the time. You have to think things through and work methodically. You simply make mistakes. The question is just how bad they are and what is visible and what it affects.

That being said, it sounds less likely that they have been careless and more likely to lean towards the product since it's really everywhere.

If I remember correctly, there were a few people in the thread who experienced the same issues. And that doesn't sound good.

But one thought that strikes me now is that if the floor layers laid the floor so that it sometimes ends with such a short piece, then they still haven't thought it through as they should. How much do the joints overlap the floor surfaces? For my floor, it must be at least 500 mm both ending and joint if I remember correctly.
 
Had a similar experience once, it was for a large house manufacturer (completely irrelevant), but the foreman for this company ordered that the floor (KĂ€hrs) be laid before the painter had been on site.
I had never done it in that order before, but he’s supposed to know best, they say...
The floor was laid and we experienced no issues, protective paper on, all fine and dandy!
The painter shows up with five buckets of filler and starts filling like crazy, I should also mention that he taped up all the split vents in the windows because it was drafty!

The painter finishes, he's as happy as a lark with money in the bank.

The poor carpenter shows up and the floor behaves just as you say, in the middle of every room the floor stands like a bow!

Problem with the subfloor? No, that would have been discovered earlier when it was laid.

The foam? No, that’s a standard, more than usual bounce would have been experienced otherwise.

The floor itself? Maybe.

Too humid with poor ventilation? Only you would know that.
 
E egge80 said:
I was once in a similar situation, it was for a quite large house manufacturer (completely irrelevant) but the site manager for this company ordered the floor (KĂ€hrs) to be laid before the painter had been there.
I had never done it in that order before, but he should know best, so they say...
The floor is laid, and everything seems fine, protective papers on, all is well!
The painter shows up with five buckets of filler and starts smoothing everything out, I should also mention that he taped up all the air vents in the windows because it was too drafty!

The painter finishes, he’s as happy as a lark with money in his account.

The poor carpenter shows up and the floor behaves exactly as you say, in the middle of every room the floor is arched!

Issue with the subfloor? No, that would have been discovered earlier when it was laid.

The foam? No, that’s a standard, more than usual bounce would have been noticed.

The floor? Maybe.

Too humid with poor ventilation? Only you would know.
Good point,

However, the painter had filled everything before the carpenter laid the floor. Only hanging wallpaper and painting the walls that needed it were left.

We've had summer during this time, and no vents have been closed; rather, everyone has opened windows and outer doors to get some air through the house and ventilate đŸ€·â€â™€ïžđŸ˜
 
P Peter Petterson said:
We have had summer during this time, and no ventilation has been closed up; rather, everyone has opened windows and front doors to get some air through the house and ventilate đŸ€·â€â™€ïžđŸ˜
That might be where the problem lies, this "summer" after midsummer has been extremely humid, and with everything open, you're letting in air that often has a relative humidity of 99%. This moisture is absorbed by the timber in the house, albeit a slow process, but it continues until there's a balance between indoor and outdoor air.
 
mikethebik mikethebik said:
Maybe that's where the problem lies, this "summer" after midsummer has been extremely humid and with everything open you get air that often has a relative humidity of 99%, and that moisture is absorbed by the wood in the house. Although a slow process, it continues all the time until there is a balance between indoor and outdoor air.
I have done some experiments now, and it is insanely difficult to have different humidity levels outside than inside regardless of whether everything is open or closed.

When the floor was laid, the carpenter had measurements between 45-55% humidity which is probably the only thing you can control and base it on?

That the humidity then rises or falls below the baseline is not something you can directly influence. The temperature inside has had a minimum of 20c since the underfloor heating was turned on 3 weeks before the laying of the floor began đŸ€·â€â™€ïž

If the relative humidity were to affect already laid floors to the extent that they warp, then all floors would start to wobble, warp, and begin to creak in all houses?
 
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P Peter Petterson said:
I've done some experiments now, and it's insanely difficult to have different humidity levels outside and inside, whether everything is open or closed.

When the floor was laid, the carpenter had measurements between 45-55% humidity, and that's probably the only thing you can control and base it on?

If the humidity then rises or falls below the base value, it's something you can't directly influence. The indoor temperature has had a minimum of 20°C since the underfloor heating was turned on 3 weeks before the floor installation started đŸ€·â€â™€ïž

If relative humidity were to affect already laid floors to the degree that they warp, then all floors would begin to buckle, warp, and start tanding in all houses?
I laid our floor a few weeks ago, about 90 sqm. Not contiguous in the bedroom but hallway, living room, and kitchen about 65 sqm. It has been in the same indoor climate since June. I thought in my naivety that the floor wouldn't swell much more considering the season, so I made it pretty tight. BUT they probably remained pretty dry since they were wrapped in plastic. Imagine my surprise when I can see that the floor has indeed swelled compared to how I laid it. It's not a problem like you have. Furthermore, the floor joists are from '65, so it's not completely level. But could it be that the humidity is causing issues anyway?

It's said that it has been an extremely skilled summer.

Our floor is a KĂ€hrs.
 
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