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Newly built upper floor - Vapor barrier
We are building an upper floor on a single-story house from 2006. My question concerns the vapor barrier/plastic in the part of the mid-floor structure facing the exterior wall. It has been left without plastic against the exterior wall. However, the plastic has been retained in the ceiling against the lower floor. Now the floor is covered with Forestia underfloor heating boards and the mid-floor is insulated with about 35 cm of Isover loose fill insulation (the old attic insulation).
Is it necessary to tear up the floorboards and ensure that the vapor barrier in the exterior wall from the lower level continues with the upper wall? I think the mid-floor should be dried out by the underfloor heating, and moreover, there should not be any moisture coming from the lower floor to the mid-floor since the old vapor barrier has been left in place.
Is it necessary to tear up the floorboards and ensure that the vapor barrier in the exterior wall from the lower level continues with the upper wall? I think the mid-floor should be dried out by the underfloor heating, and moreover, there should not be any moisture coming from the lower floor to the mid-floor since the old vapor barrier has been left in place.
1. There is no vapor barrier indoors between floors (if they are furnished for living).A Anton5 said:We are building an upper floor on a single-story house from 2006. My question concerns the vapor barrier/plastic in the portion of the intermediate floor facing the exterior wall. It has been left without plastic against the exterior wall. However, the plastic has been retained in the ceiling towards the lower floor. Now the floor is covered with Forestia's underfloor heating panels and the intermediate floor is insulated with about 35 cm Isover loose fill (the old attic insulation).
Is it necessary to tear up the floor panels and ensure that the vapor barrier in the exterior wall from the lower floor continues with the upper wall? I think the intermediate floor should be dried out by the underfloor heating and furthermore, no moisture should come from the lower floor to the intermediate floor as the old vapor barrier has been left...
2. It's possible that the underfloor heating dries moisture in the intermediate floor, but if the loose fill is against the exterior wall insulation and the vapor barrier is missing there, it can result in a shift of the dew point where potential moisture condenses in the wrong place. The vapor barrier in the exterior wall should be joined between the upper and lower floors.
A Anton5 said:We are building a second floor on a one-story house from 2006. My question concerns the vapor barrier/plastic in the part of the floor structure that faces the exterior wall. There it has been left without plastic against the exterior wall. However, the plastic has been retained in the ceiling against the lower floor. Now the floor is covered with forestias floor heating panels and the floor structure is insulated with about 35 cm of Isover loose wool (the old attic insulation).
Is it necessary to rip up the floor panels and ensure that the vapor barrier in the exterior wall from the lower level continues with the upper wall? I think the floor structure should dry out from the floor heating and also there shouldn't be any moisture coming from the lower floor to the floor structure since the old vapor barrier has been left...
P Pumabjörnen said:1. There is no vapor barrier indoors between floors (in the case they are furnished for living)
2. The floor heating may dry moisture in the floor structure but if the loose wool lies against the exterior wall insulation and there is lacking a vapor barrier there, it can result in the dew point shifting where moisture might condense in the wrong place. A vapor barrier in the exterior wall should be connected between the upper and lower floor.
Thanks for the answer! Time to rip up the floor and seal... sigh
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