33,730 views ·
95 replies
34k views
95 replies
New construction - botched job?! Are we being scammed? Worried!!
I wonder how they did with the foundation. Previously, the beam was supposed to take up the load, did they make sure to reinforce the foundation under the now load-bearing wall?Mikael_L said:
Mikael_L said:
One-step sealed facades are one of the best constructions available; everyone in the industry knows this if done correctly. Or are you saying a plastered wall construction is bad from a moisture perspective? However, the type you mention is a poor example of a one-step sealed construction.
But I maintain that correctly sealed one-step constructions are very, very good. As mentioned, not all one-step sealed are thin plaster on foam.
Stone, masonry, concrete, etc., are good.
I think it's you who doesn't fully understand what a single-stage sealed construction is then. There are plenty of such constructions being built. I think you're referring to the small portion that was built with thin plaster on foam plastic which was popular for a while.Snailman said:
A load-bearing interior wall of this type in single-family houses typically has a line load of about 10kN / meter. This is less than half the line load that exterior walls provide in most snow zones in Sweden.Kallebo said:
Nonetheless, some reinforcement under / in the slab is preferable, though it does not need to be quite as heavy as edge beams. I have two load-bearing walls for joists with a 10-meter span and a 6.5-meter width on the upcoming upper floor there, so the line load is under 5kN / m, so I just added a strip of reinforcement mat where the core walls will be, without calculating anything or checking anything.
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 582 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,582 posts
If one writes what's in the manufacturer's installation instructions, then in my opinion, it's not something one "believes". - just as an example.shomakie said:If someone asks about something as important as a house construction, I don't think one should guess and write things they "believe". Ts wants this constructed correctly and people with a bit of experience must express it correctly. That's just my opinion. It's a completely different matter if someone asks "how should I build my kitchen".
If you're just out to provoke, be prepared for us to take you at your word.hul said:single-stage sealed facades are one of the best constructions available, everyone in the industry knows if they are done correctly. Or do you mean that a plastered wall construction is bad from a moisture perspective? However, the type you mention is a bad example of single-stage sealed construction.
But I maintain that a correctly single-stage sealed construction is very very good. As mentioned, not all single-stage sealed are thin plaster on foam plastic.
stone, wall, concrete, etc. are good
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 582 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,582 posts
I hadn't noticed the glespanel in the ceiling, it overlaps instead of being joined at a rafter. Haven't seen that execution before.absolutjohan said:Is it just me who notices how they have joined the glesan in the ceiling?
You'll notice where the plastic isn't sealed properly when the house is pressure tested!
If you join the drywall like they did over frames and windows, you will definitely get cracks there after a year or so in the paint or wallpaper.
You should always have plastic or sill sealing under the sill on interior walls...
[image]
If you want drywall on the ceiling and want the drywall seam in the middle of such a gles, it becomes difficult. If you want paneling, it's a smaller issue.
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Absolutely, I can take criticism, but I hope it applies both ways.Mikael_L said:
What I'm trying to convey is that it feels like this forum strives to criticize craftsmen/companies as directly and harshly as possible, without always having solid ground.
One must be aware that the same work can be performed in many ways and still be correct.
For example, the plastic that has been mentioned a lot in this thread. There are incredibly many ways to install it correctly.
An installation guide from a single supplier doesn't mean it's the only correct way; there are many that are approved.
Of course, there are better and poorer approved installations of the same thing, but it is actually up to the client to specify in the contract what they want.
For craftsmen are profit-driven businesses, and one must understand that they do what is quick and works well.
I understand that you might think I'm biased because I work in the industry. However, I want to add that I work for one of the larger companies in Sweden, so we are not directly involved in house construction against private individuals as in this case.
@catherineb
I have tried to scrutinize the pictures.
(It would be better if you didn't downsize them so much, it would be easier for us to zoom in on small details).
I haven't seen anything other than what's already been mentioned. For example, I saw the oddly joined sparse ceiling panel, but someone else mentioned it before me...
What I see doesn't exactly make me jump up and shout that the construction must be stopped immediately. Everything doesn't look perfect, but at the same time not much worse than many mediocre constructions.
The slab seems to have been cast by amateurs. Getting such a poor surface is almost impossible if you've made some slabs before in your life and have the equipment you need.
Feels like I would have done better myself, even though I've only been involved in casting twice.
Then one might wonder how everything else turned out.
If only the surface is uneven, but somewhat level and straight, it practically doesn't matter much, a bit depending on what flooring is intended later. But hopefully everything else with the slab turned out as it should.
The plastic at the windows could be done much better, the way it's done now it's almost impossible to make it completely tight.
On the other hand, the leakage that might occur is practically no big deal if they just do as well as possible with the rest. But it's a bit unnecessary, I think, that they didn't cover the best way and insert the backing rod before the wall gypsum was set up.
In the garage, I cheated a little in this way, but in the house, I did it according to "best practice".
Gypsum boards are poorly cut, contrary to all known gypsum board manufacturers' instructions. It doesn't have to be a big deal, but the risk that paint/wallpaper in the future will crack from the corner of the window/door straight up to the ceiling is much larger now.
This mistake is, however, quite common among all stressed builders who disregard recommendations.
The electrical boxes have unscrewable rings (also changeable to even deeper rings, VP-2 boxes, as far as I can see...)
So the installation is okay then. The most important thing is that the flange on the box is somewhat against the board on the backside in the hole.
The spars in the ceiling are weirdly joined. Depending on what ceiling it becomes, it's anything from insignificant to problematic.
The span on the long part of the floor joist over the kitchen is too long for 45x220. But the designer has doubled these beams, and without calculating it, I think that this is sufficient, the overlength of the floor joist bay is only around 1/2 meter, which I think a double moment of inertia should fix.
The bearing heart wall I think is a bit poorly executed. The lintel above the distribution cabinet should have been an upright stud, preferably 220x45. And I'm wondering if the sill has support against the floor on the right side of the distribution cabinet (right in the picture here in the thread). Otherwise, it looks good there.
The question is if the most worrying thing isn't that other professionals come and tell you they think it looks odd. It takes quite a lot to start criticizing others on a construction to the customer. :eek:
I have tried to scrutinize the pictures.
(It would be better if you didn't downsize them so much, it would be easier for us to zoom in on small details).
I haven't seen anything other than what's already been mentioned. For example, I saw the oddly joined sparse ceiling panel, but someone else mentioned it before me...
What I see doesn't exactly make me jump up and shout that the construction must be stopped immediately. Everything doesn't look perfect, but at the same time not much worse than many mediocre constructions.
The slab seems to have been cast by amateurs. Getting such a poor surface is almost impossible if you've made some slabs before in your life and have the equipment you need.
Feels like I would have done better myself, even though I've only been involved in casting twice.
Then one might wonder how everything else turned out.
If only the surface is uneven, but somewhat level and straight, it practically doesn't matter much, a bit depending on what flooring is intended later. But hopefully everything else with the slab turned out as it should.
The plastic at the windows could be done much better, the way it's done now it's almost impossible to make it completely tight.
On the other hand, the leakage that might occur is practically no big deal if they just do as well as possible with the rest. But it's a bit unnecessary, I think, that they didn't cover the best way and insert the backing rod before the wall gypsum was set up.
In the garage, I cheated a little in this way, but in the house, I did it according to "best practice".
Gypsum boards are poorly cut, contrary to all known gypsum board manufacturers' instructions. It doesn't have to be a big deal, but the risk that paint/wallpaper in the future will crack from the corner of the window/door straight up to the ceiling is much larger now.
This mistake is, however, quite common among all stressed builders who disregard recommendations.
The electrical boxes have unscrewable rings (also changeable to even deeper rings, VP-2 boxes, as far as I can see...)
So the installation is okay then. The most important thing is that the flange on the box is somewhat against the board on the backside in the hole.
The spars in the ceiling are weirdly joined. Depending on what ceiling it becomes, it's anything from insignificant to problematic.
The span on the long part of the floor joist over the kitchen is too long for 45x220. But the designer has doubled these beams, and without calculating it, I think that this is sufficient, the overlength of the floor joist bay is only around 1/2 meter, which I think a double moment of inertia should fix.
The bearing heart wall I think is a bit poorly executed. The lintel above the distribution cabinet should have been an upright stud, preferably 220x45. And I'm wondering if the sill has support against the floor on the right side of the distribution cabinet (right in the picture here in the thread). Otherwise, it looks good there.
The question is if the most worrying thing isn't that other professionals come and tell you they think it looks odd. It takes quite a lot to start criticizing others on a construction to the customer. :eek:
Homeowner
· Västerbottens län
· 775 posts
Exactly!! It is all the 'knowledgeable' people around us who ask, point things out, and complain. This has led us to be more or less in a state of disarray. If we could do this over from the start, we would have gone 100% with the house manufacturer and not told a single soul. Now we have received "advice" on everything from construction, ventilation, options, electricity, and plumbing. It's hard to ignore when professionals point things out to us, but in hindsight, it's easy to be wise.Mikael_L said:
We have promised ourselves that moving forward, we will leave friends, family, and acquaintances out of it.
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 582 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,582 posts
Of course, it applies to those with a wooden frame structure, no others have been relevant, the National Board of Housing, Building and Planning assesses that 4000 houses are damaged. You might not think that's a lot, but I do.hul said:
but stop now, you can make single-stage sealed facades with wooden frame structures perfectly well.Snailman said:
it is a variant with thin plaster on expanded polystyrene that hasn't worked. (works if the installation is done correctly but very sensitive to incorrect installation and changes in the facade)