Hello.
With the help of a good friend, I have finally managed to pour in the summer cottage. It's an old kitchen that will now become a bathroom instead. The idea was that I would frame the walls myself, but as an amateur, it seems to be more difficult than I thought.
The walls differ between ~2-4cm from top to bottom, depending on where you measure.
I was thinking of using standing studs 45x45 or 45x70; electricity for the washing machine should be prepared, then I assume that water pipes to the sink, shower, and washing machine look best if you run them in the wall? Therefore, I'm considering if lying studs might be better after all? I need all the tips I can get. The idea is to put tiles on the walls later, is that a bad idea considering the initial situation?
With the help of a good friend, I have finally managed to pour in the summer cottage. It's an old kitchen that will now become a bathroom instead. The idea was that I would frame the walls myself, but as an amateur, it seems to be more difficult than I thought.
The walls differ between ~2-4cm from top to bottom, depending on where you measure.
I was thinking of using standing studs 45x45 or 45x70; electricity for the washing machine should be prepared, then I assume that water pipes to the sink, shower, and washing machine look best if you run them in the wall? Therefore, I'm considering if lying studs might be better after all? I need all the tips I can get. The idea is to put tiles on the walls later, is that a bad idea considering the initial situation?
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Keep in mind that built-in water pipes in an exterior wall can be risky if the exterior wall has thin insulation. If you're going all-in with a safe water solution, then it's 45x70 that applies, cc45. First, decide if you are going to create a wet room according to the insurance companies and safe water standard or your own workaround. That will then determine how you can/must do it.m2h said:
The exterior walls have 70mm+45mm right now, then 45mm on the inside now too, is that sufficient?P Per i Hamrånge said:
Okay, I plan to do it as seriously as possible, I have many skilled acquaintances I can consult if I get stuck. How is it usually done in new constructions, do they mostly lay the pipes on the outside?
There is a lot of useful information here.
https://www.sakervatten.se/FILEARCHIVE/8390434DA14B85FD0431CBD51BCAA1D3.pdf
These days, water is usually placed in the wall with "pipe in pipe" since it looks neat. Just note that you can’t have any connections inside the wall and must have a distribution cabinet.
I had a house with 120mm insulation in the outer wall. We added 45mm studs and insulation on the inside. In the installation layer, pipe-in-pipe was placed. This froze. It's enough to have a small gap or defect in the outer wall where cold air can creep in for it to freeze. With external pipes (at least on the outer walls), this is never an issue.
Thank you for the PDF file, very good information there.
Then maybe it's best to put water on the outside. I was thinking of starting to frame the walls, should you have sillseal between the floor and the stud or is it enough to have a few centimeters gap? Self-leveling compound will also go on the floor, should that be done first?
Then maybe it's best to put water on the outside. I was thinking of starting to frame the walls, should you have sillseal between the floor and the stud or is it enough to have a few centimeters gap? Self-leveling compound will also go on the floor, should that be done first?
Internally, sill paper is not needed. It's only to prevent moisture from rising through the end grain from the ground. You are supposed to fully screw the plywood, that is, around the entire board. So first place studs in the ceiling and floor, and the upright studs between them. Put on the plywood and then gypsum. Level the floor last. It's easier to build panels before leveling because the floor is (hopefully) straighter so you avoid cutting the panels too unevenly. Additionally, the floor leveling compound against the gypsum creates a tight joint, reducing the risk of the waterproof layer being damaged due to a hollow space behind. Don't forget to lift the plywood about 10 mm from the floor.
You have the opportunity to straighten the walls when you set the new studs. A difference of 4 cm in a corner doesn't look great with tiles. At least not with smaller tiles.
The simplest way is to build a cage with studs that are plumb. Thus, you take a top and bottom rail and mount equally long studs between them. Keep in mind that in the corners, you should be able to screw together the cage and also screw in plywood and wet room boards; it's easy to forget that. You need two studs in each wall in every corner. If the window is not plumb, it is usually easier to cut angled trims than to tile walls that are not plumb.