40,628 views ·
35 replies
41k views
35 replies
Mount OSB on horizontal studs.
Hello, I'm just about to start installing OSB boards in my garage where there is a 45x45 frame as an installation layer. The ceiling height is 250, so I need to cut a strip of OSB, and I've figured out that I need to lay the OSB boards so that the strip I cut has something to attach to. To make it fit, I would need to raise the first OSB board (the one against the floor) to the middle of the first frame, i.e., about 22-23mm from the floor. Does this work, or will the gap towards the floor be too large?
If this is okay, can I then, when I mount the drywall, bring it down past the gap on the OSB board and have about a 10mm gap down towards the floor with the drywall?
I hope you understand my question.
Best regards,
Jesper
If this is okay, can I then, when I mount the drywall, bring it down past the gap on the OSB board and have about a 10mm gap down towards the floor with the drywall?
I hope you understand my question.
Best regards,
Jesper
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
There is OSB that is 2500 long, it's easier to work with that.
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
Can't they be returned then?
Saves both time and material if you can use whole discs.
Saves both time and material if you can use whole discs.
Keep in mind that there's a 20 kr difference between the 2.4 and 2.5 plasterboards. I bought 2.4m and then made strips at the bottom from another board. Instead of spending 80kr on the board compared to 60kr for the 2.4m. Just a tip. Every little bit helps 😉
Hi.
It's quite common to place OSB in the way you've done when you're going to put drywall over it. Either you lay them as you have, or you use vertical panels but offset the seam so that the seam where the OSB meets lands in the middle behind the drywall.
So you haven't actually done anything wrong by doing so. You lay them horizontally or have them standing depending on what fits best/goes fastest. So just go ahead and do it. However, the drywall should, of course, be bought at the right height so you don't have to seam. And now that you have OSB behind, you start with the drywall in the middle over the door/window opening (saw out for the opening when half is screwed on using a discarded handsaw aka plaster saw) and then proceed from that towards the sides. Remember to level the first panel vertically with a level. Starting with the drywall in the middle from the door opening will prevent cracks in wallpaper or paint in the future, and it will be easier to install the door casing.
Kind regards / carpenter
ps looks good with the OSB.
It's quite common to place OSB in the way you've done when you're going to put drywall over it. Either you lay them as you have, or you use vertical panels but offset the seam so that the seam where the OSB meets lands in the middle behind the drywall.
So you haven't actually done anything wrong by doing so. You lay them horizontally or have them standing depending on what fits best/goes fastest. So just go ahead and do it. However, the drywall should, of course, be bought at the right height so you don't have to seam. And now that you have OSB behind, you start with the drywall in the middle over the door/window opening (saw out for the opening when half is screwed on using a discarded handsaw aka plaster saw) and then proceed from that towards the sides. Remember to level the first panel vertically with a level. Starting with the drywall in the middle from the door opening will prevent cracks in wallpaper or paint in the future, and it will be easier to install the door casing.
Kind regards / carpenter
ps looks good with the OSB.
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If the gypsum board is to be plastered, it becomes a major additional task to plaster horizontal seams without a recess. It's definitely not worth saving 20 kr per board.shomakie said:

