Mortar outside of concrete blocks

[Lars48]

Now you have done it. Otherwise, you could use finberong or mubruk B and water before the blocks and the slab so that it sticks. The mix should not be like porridge; then it won't stick and will just fall off, instead, it should have a firm consistency like bread dough.
As for the paint, you can use some sort of water-based paint like Beckers. Prime with V and apply the paint. Guaranteed to stay for many years.

 

[Eazy1]

Besides not being able to attach it to the edge of the concrete slab, I didn't apply any mortar on the concrete slab itself since it would have become too thick. The foundation would have ended up wider than the garage itself (sticking out beyond the panel when viewed in profile). I think it'll be fine once I paint the foundation. It doesn't matter if it's not perfect. Who looks at the foundation anyway?

I'll have to go to the paint store regarding my question about silicate binder if no one knowledgeable here can answer it, because I don't dare paint the foundation based on my own judgment.

 

[Alko]

You can use this color:

http://www.alcro.se/Utomhus/Arbetsomraden/Putsfasad/Putsfasad/Puts/

Extremely easy to paint and covers ridiculously well (which you wouldn’t expect since it feels like milk in consistency).

You don't need to use any silicate paint if it's on a base where you have plastered with B or stronger (A).

Otherwise, Alcro also has a silicate paint, which might still be sensible for you if the base tends to get wet in the rain.

I would have skimmed (gruel) the entire base including the board (skimming always adheres!) with A-mortar, and then maybe plastered the Leca with B or A, using the same brush dipped in water before it sets to get the same texture on the base and wall. You can still get a good result on your base if you skim B on the board, and pull up towards the Leca. It’s done in half an hour. An alternative to make less mess is to mix a consistency like loose porridge, firm enough to hold together on the plasterboard and just run out slowly. Place it on the plasterboard (see below), and pull it from the bottom up on the board a bit over the wall. Then take the wet but not dripping brush and spread it out. The waiting time in between is about 0-30 minutes depending on the weather.

Always use a lime brush!

https://www.byggmax.se/verktyg/handverktyg-och-redskap/borstar-spadar-och-skaft/kalkkvast-p28531

And then you use this next time to apply the plaster, whether you throw it with a trowel or just pull the board directly with mortar from bottom to top:

https://www.byggmax.se/verktyg/handverktyg-och-redskap/tillbehör-mur-och-puts/putsbräda-p28535

 

[Eazy1]

Too bad I got such good advice after I finished it, as I suppose I can't apply a really thin layer of cement mortar on top of what I've already done to get the concrete slab and base in the same structure? Maybe there's another solution besides using mortar? I'm planning not to paint for a couple of weeks, so I might come across a solution by then...

I was at the paint store today checking for paint. They recommended base paint and not any silicate. You should dilute the paint for the first coat with 20% water. Then one coat on top of that would be enough, or maybe two.

 

[Alko]

Too bad I got such good advice after I have completed it, because I guess I can't lay a really thin layer of cement mortar on top of what I've already done to get the concrete slab and base in the same structure? Maybe there's another solution than using mortar? I'm not planning to paint for a couple of weeks, so I might come across a solution by then...

I was at the paint store today checking out paint. They recommended base paint and not some silicate. For the first coat, you should dilute the paint with 20% water. Then one coat on top of that or maybe two would be enough.

Sounds sensible to use acrylic paint on a hard base that shouldn't absorb water like a more lime-rich kc-plaster does.

Cement mortar (A) should not be applied to B-mortar, you should never lay a harder mortar on a weaker one.

And I would wash the plaster (brush, dish soap + rinse, painter's wash not needed) after it has cured, and try to paint when it has dried reasonably well. At least 5-7 degrees at night, otherwise you should wait until next year.

 

[Eazy1]

Makes sense to use acrylic paint on a hard base that shouldn't absorb water like a more lime-rich kc-plaster does.

Cement mortar (A) should not be applied over B-mortar, you never apply a harder mortar over a weaker one.

And I would wash the plaster (brush, dish soap + rinse, no need for painter's wash) after it has cured, and try to paint it once it has dried reasonably. At least 5-7 degrees at night, otherwise you should wait until next year.

Why do I need to wash the plaster before when it's new? I was thinking of washing the slab before with the pressure washer. It has some algae formation on it.

I'm planning to paint next weekend. I bought "texture sand" to add to the paint so there won't be too much difference in texture between the slab and the plaster. I'll share a picture once I've painted