Electronics enthusiast
· 2 457 posts
I suspect it's not super easy to chisel precisely... good job is my thoughtKenny Lundbäck said:
122x62 should be absolutely fine.
https://www.wurth.se/produkter/infa...infastning/nivaskruv/vaterskruv--vaterskruen/
The Vaterskruv instinctively feels like a good option when the module dimension has become somewhat large.
Keep in mind that a window in size 12 x 6 (120 x 60) is in the actual outer frame dimension about 2cm smaller, that is 1180mm x 580mm depending on the manufacturer.
So there it is already 2cm smaller, so with the cutout size 122 x 62 it becomes 4cm.
So there it is already 2cm smaller, so with the cutout size 122 x 62 it becomes 4cm.
Yes, it is hollow concrete blocks that I chiselled in and I was extremely lucky that it was about 61cm between 3 rows and 121 cm between 3 blocks horizontally, making the hole 120/60 was basically impossible.I suspect that it is not super easy to chisel exactly... good job is my thought
122x62 should be no problem at all.
[link]
The Vaterskruv instinctively feels like a good option when the module measurement has become somewhat large.
Member
· Etelä Pohjanmaa
· 2 467 posts
Of course, it can be bigger. You just need to ensure you have sufficiently wide trims to cover it. 122x62 is no problem for a 12x6 window.
Electronics enthusiast
· 2 457 posts
Essve has a similar screw. So it should be available
First and foremost, one should be attentive to the matter of module measurements and frame measurements, it doesn't always differ by 1-1.5 cm. But typically for Swedish-made windows and doors, it is like this, when you buy a window with a module 9x12, for example, the opening measurement should be 9x12 dm, i.e., 90x120 cm for the frame itself, which then is 88.5-89 cm x 118.5-119 cm.
But many German and Polish PVC and ALU windows have the specified measurement exactly as the frame is.
So, you have to be a bit cautious.
Then moving on to the usual Swedish module measurement, it is meant that you make the hole in the wall for a module 9x12 window exactly 90x120 cm, so there will be a 5 mm gap around for insulation. But personally (admittedly from my own experience), you might as well add 5-10 mm extra, because if the hole you made is not exactly rectangular, for example, it becomes very troublesome. And it's also a bit tricky to insulate a 5 mm gap, a little easier if it's 7-10 mm.
The disadvantages of making a big over-dimension are partly that you soon have problems covering the gap with trim, and partly that the attachment to the wall becomes more difficult and wobbly. For instance, frame screws become more wobbly and unstable the greater the distance is between the frame and the wall. But it can be significantly improved by choosing a better attachment, such as a frame sleeve.
And then there's the question of how stable it needs to be; an exterior door, for instance, exerts more strain on the attachment than a normal window.
I know that TS knew about this with module measurements vs frame outer measurements, it was obvious, so I wrote a bit more explanation mostly for others who find this thread. I know there are many who wish they had picked up all these details already when framing their walls; I myself am glad I had learned in time, though I later learned the value of a little extra over-dimension.
But to TS, indeed, take a little extra. But try to limit it to just a little. But if it becomes a little too much, it's never worse than having to add some material later.
But many German and Polish PVC and ALU windows have the specified measurement exactly as the frame is.
So, you have to be a bit cautious.
Then moving on to the usual Swedish module measurement, it is meant that you make the hole in the wall for a module 9x12 window exactly 90x120 cm, so there will be a 5 mm gap around for insulation. But personally (admittedly from my own experience
), you might as well add 5-10 mm extra, because if the hole you made is not exactly rectangular, for example, it becomes very troublesome. And it's also a bit tricky to insulate a 5 mm gap, a little easier if it's 7-10 mm.The disadvantages of making a big over-dimension are partly that you soon have problems covering the gap with trim, and partly that the attachment to the wall becomes more difficult and wobbly. For instance, frame screws become more wobbly and unstable the greater the distance is between the frame and the wall. But it can be significantly improved by choosing a better attachment, such as a frame sleeve.
And then there's the question of how stable it needs to be; an exterior door, for instance, exerts more strain on the attachment than a normal window.
I know that TS knew about this with module measurements vs frame outer measurements, it was obvious, so I wrote a bit more explanation mostly for others who find this thread. I know there are many who wish they had picked up all these details already when framing their walls; I myself am glad I had learned in time, though I later learned the value of a little extra over-dimension.
But to TS, indeed, take a little extra. But try to limit it to just a little. But if it becomes a little too much, it's never worse than having to add some material later.