Hello!
We have a living room where the walls consist of fiberboard. Overall, we plan to apply sparse paneling with insulation, OSB, and finally plasterboard, which we did in the kitchen with great results. But now that we're working on the living room, we face the issue with the tiled stove situated in the "inner" corner. Firstly, the sparse paneling, OSB, and plasterboard add about 45 mm, and the stove is built in "levels" with the widest part at the bottom and a shelf at a section shift; this makes it difficult to cut OSB and plasterboard to fit neatly, or if it's even suitable (currently, the fiberboard goes all the way up to the stove).
So, what I thought was to use ready-painted beadboard paneling made of MDF on both sides of the stove and meet the level difference in the wall against the sparse/OSB/plasterboard with a nice transition strip. As I see it, it's easier to cut MDF into shape than to fiddle with "loose" wooden beadboard.
That brings up the first question: is it suitable to use MDF against a tiled stove? It might reach a surface temperature of around 80° (I'm not sure, it does get really hot, but it doesn't cause burns when touched). Fiberboard feels more flammable (note, I don't know, is it "flammable"?) and it has withstood the heat over the years since the 1950s when these rooms were renovated with these boards.
I know MDF is often used in kitchens, but that's a different type of heat; it would be quite unfortunate if the boards didn't hold up to this kind of use and that it becomes unsightly or even potentially dangerous.
Has anyone done this themselves, or have other suggestions on how to do this?
Grateful for any quick help I can get.
Regards,
K
We have a living room where the walls consist of fiberboard. Overall, we plan to apply sparse paneling with insulation, OSB, and finally plasterboard, which we did in the kitchen with great results. But now that we're working on the living room, we face the issue with the tiled stove situated in the "inner" corner. Firstly, the sparse paneling, OSB, and plasterboard add about 45 mm, and the stove is built in "levels" with the widest part at the bottom and a shelf at a section shift; this makes it difficult to cut OSB and plasterboard to fit neatly, or if it's even suitable (currently, the fiberboard goes all the way up to the stove).
So, what I thought was to use ready-painted beadboard paneling made of MDF on both sides of the stove and meet the level difference in the wall against the sparse/OSB/plasterboard with a nice transition strip. As I see it, it's easier to cut MDF into shape than to fiddle with "loose" wooden beadboard.
That brings up the first question: is it suitable to use MDF against a tiled stove? It might reach a surface temperature of around 80° (I'm not sure, it does get really hot, but it doesn't cause burns when touched). Fiberboard feels more flammable (note, I don't know, is it "flammable"?) and it has withstood the heat over the years since the 1950s when these rooms were renovated with these boards.
I know MDF is often used in kitchens, but that's a different type of heat; it would be quite unfortunate if the boards didn't hold up to this kind of use and that it becomes unsightly or even potentially dangerous.
Has anyone done this themselves, or have other suggestions on how to do this?
Grateful for any quick help I can get.
Regards,
K
Hello...
I would recommend ending a bit away from the tile stove and finishing with a nice trim or molding.
This gives a nice framing to the tile stove. Straight lines so the stove stands out with its contours...
Let the wall be as it is behind the stove... paint or wallpaper
The space between the tile stove and the wall is needed for ventilation between them...
When I worked on my wall behind the stove, I painted with a sand color which made the surface very nice.
Sand color = sand and paint... The surface doesn't need to be 100%, the paint takes care of it...
Eti..
I would recommend ending a bit away from the tile stove and finishing with a nice trim or molding.
This gives a nice framing to the tile stove. Straight lines so the stove stands out with its contours...
Let the wall be as it is behind the stove... paint or wallpaper
The space between the tile stove and the wall is needed for ventilation between them...
When I worked on my wall behind the stove, I painted with a sand color which made the surface very nice.
Sand color = sand and paint... The surface doesn't need to be 100%, the paint takes care of it...
Eti..
Hi!
Thank you for your response!
My partner came up with the fantastic idea to remove the tretex and use the timber underneath, which we'll paint. This also led me to discover wallpaper from when the house was built in 1931, under the tretex, which is always fun. So we'll simply have timber for the walls facing inward in the house. The outer walls will still get sparse paneling, OSB, and drywall.
But, it is still interesting to know, how heat-resistant is MDF? Can it be used right next to a masonry heater? Anyone?
Regards,
K
Thank you for your response!
My partner came up with the fantastic idea to remove the tretex and use the timber underneath, which we'll paint. This also led me to discover wallpaper from when the house was built in 1931, under the tretex, which is always fun. So we'll simply have timber for the walls facing inward in the house. The outer walls will still get sparse paneling, OSB, and drywall.
But, it is still interesting to know, how heat-resistant is MDF? Can it be used right next to a masonry heater? Anyone?
Regards,
K
Mdf,en is a hard pressed board that withstands more heat than tretex does, a tiled stove does not radiate heat like a regular stove, as long as it is intact and fine.. But there should always be an adequate air gap between the wall and the tiled stove.. Eti..