3,411 views ·
23 replies
3k views
23 replies
MDF in boathouse
It depends a lot on how humid the air is. What exactly do you mean by a boat shed in this case? Is it on land? Do you mean it's a house standing on a dock where you can moor a boat inside? Difficult to determine how much moisture you get in.D doctormirabilis said:thanks for the input. the print shops seem a bit nervous about boat sheds, and say that "plywood doesn't work so well in humid environments," but whether it's considered a humid environment when they are in a tight, but unheated, boat shed, they can't answer. what would you say? I find it a bit strange that plywood would damage in a boat shed provided it doesn't get direct moisture on it, so to speak.
Very reasonable question that I obviously should have seen coming already in my original post. No, it's not a boathouse on stilts over the water but a building 2 meters from the shoreline. The moisture is from the air, I don't know the exact numbers but we're talking southern Norrland geographically. Yes, this is tricky, maybe I should play it safe and avoid wood altogether.En apelsin said:
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 525 posts
Regular MDF, even the "moisture resistant" version, as previously described, is poorly suited for any constructions exposed to moisture. However, there is a variant called "Tricoya" that resists moisture very well. I have seen small pieces of Tricoya stored in water for a year without separating, only swelling marginally on the surface.
Considering that it's not over the water, I find it hard to see that the space will be more humid than other houses that stand unheated. I think plywood should work. If you want to be completely on the safe side, why not opt for a painted sheet of marine plywood?D doctormirabilis said:Very reasonable question that I obviously should have anticipated in my original post. No, it's not a boathouse on stilts over the water but a building 2 meters from the shoreline. The moisture is from the air, exact figures I don't know, but we're talking southern Norrland geographically. Yes, this is tricky, maybe I should play it safe and avoid wood altogether.
I hope so too and agree with you. However, it is only possible to print on what the printing house provides.En apelsin said:
Yes, is there no way to deal with them at all? If we're not talking about many thousands, I would take a chance and print on the plywood they provide. An alternative to protect the material is to varnish or oil the plywood after printing, especially on the end grain where damage usually starts. This way, you get some protection against moisture. It's important, of course, that the printing ink isn't affected by the surface treatment, but you can certainly ask about that.D doctormirabilis said:
no, it's their stuff that applies. yes, I should be able to ask, indeed. I don't think, as I said, the moisture in the air should be worse than any other cold-stored building, at least not other cold-stored building by the sea. plywood would definitely be the easiest, the alternative (more expensive) is to go with metal and put the metal outside of wooden boards of some kind. thanksEn apelsin said:
Yes, is it not possible to negotiate with them at all? If it's not thousands we're talking about, I would bet on pressing on the plywood they provide. One option to protect the material is to varnish or oil the plywood after printing, especially the end grain where damage usually starts. This way, you get some protection against moisture. Of course, it's crucial that the paint is not affected by the surface treatment, but you can certainly ask about that.
Click here to reply