I have a hallway with plastered walls that I'm quite tired of. I'm now considering tearing down the plaster, but I also have a rounded wall in a corner of the hallway. I was thinking of drywalling all the walls, but is it even possible on a rounded wall? Is there another material that resembles drywall when painted over? Or a material that can be wallpapered? The plaster is currently 10-15mm, so something in that thickness would probably be best.
Feel free to come with suggestions!
Feel free to come with suggestions!
I'm not sure about the first two options, as these are solutions I haven't seen or tested myself:
1. There is said to be 6 mm scored drywall that can be bent.
2. 6 mm drywall is said to be able to be set in moderately sharp curves if you first spray it with water. I assume you have to wait for the water to soak in first and then work quickly to shape the board along the wall and screw it in once it's dried.
If that doesn't work, you can instead:
1. Put up the drywall in narrow strips if possible and round off with suitable filler. But then the curve also changes somewhat.
2. Install scored MDF (very flexible and formable) in suitable thickness and then wallpaper it with Microlit (nylon felt) or suitable paper underlay to get rid of the hard surface the board gives.
There are surely more ways to solve your problem, good luck!
Best regards,
Ronnie
1. There is said to be 6 mm scored drywall that can be bent.
2. 6 mm drywall is said to be able to be set in moderately sharp curves if you first spray it with water. I assume you have to wait for the water to soak in first and then work quickly to shape the board along the wall and screw it in once it's dried.
If that doesn't work, you can instead:
1. Put up the drywall in narrow strips if possible and round off with suitable filler. But then the curve also changes somewhat.
2. Install scored MDF (very flexible and formable) in suitable thickness and then wallpaper it with Microlit (nylon felt) or suitable paper underlay to get rid of the hard surface the board gives.
There are surely more ways to solve your problem, good luck!
Best regards,
Ronnie
Regular 6 mm renovation gypsum can be bent quite a lot, Norgips board should handle a radius of 300 mm.
But rahkko, why are you going to remove the plaster..? If you want it completely smooth, can't you work on top of the plaster, with smooth plastering or a board on top?
But rahkko, why are you going to remove the plaster..? If you want it completely smooth, can't you work on top of the plaster, with smooth plastering or a board on top?
Don't know what it looks like, inward-curved or outward-curved.rahkko said:
Anyway, it's possible to plaster with gypsum (gypsum, i.e. not plasterboards, can be bought in different qualities). Which goes well with the thickness you mentioned. After that, you sand it down and then fill it later with regular wall filler to get a smooth finish.
Edit: a link to a product that can be used
Beijer Byggmaterial
have personally used it for various things (building arches etc.). You can do a lot of "specials" if you want to cast different shapes for decoration etc.
Ideally, I would actually want to avoid tearing down the plaster, considering the radiators and everything. But as it is now, the plaster keeps cracking every now and then when removing a baseboard or door frame.jon_h said:
Do you need to use some kind of binder before filling a hole or a crack with spackling?
rahkko: How often do you remove moldings and door frames??? Once every 10 years when you wallpaper, possibly... 
But in any case, do as Badger suggested, this gypsum plaster is wonderful to work with, yes you may need a primer to attach the plaster with, but I also suggest that a week before you start plastering with new plaster or gypsum plaster, you sprinkle a little water on the old plaster that remains, otherwise it will absorb large amounts of water from the plaster you are going to apply...
But in any case, do as Badger suggested, this gypsum plaster is wonderful to work with, yes you may need a primer to attach the plaster with, but I also suggest that a week before you start plastering with new plaster or gypsum plaster, you sprinkle a little water on the old plaster that remains, otherwise it will absorb large amounts of water from the plaster you are going to apply...
I have now gotten over that thought. Although I'm really fed up with the plaster, as it cracks so easily whenever you try to hang up a picture or something.
Now, however, I'm wondering if it's possible to get hold of rounded baseboards.
It is a convex wall, so is it possible to order baseboards in different radii, or do you have to ask a carpentry firm to make them?
Is it possible to moisten the baseboard and bend it a little, moisten, bend, and so on?
Now, however, I'm wondering if it's possible to get hold of rounded baseboards.
It is a convex wall, so is it possible to order baseboards in different radii, or do you have to ask a carpentry firm to make them?
Is it possible to moisten the baseboard and bend it a little, moisten, bend, and so on?
You can make the lists more flexible by sawing through them halfway on the backside, with a few cm between the cuts. Another way is to basa, i.e., steam the lists. You can improvise a steam pan using a downpipe and a kettle.
Personally, I have oak skirting and had the same problem with two radii in the hallway, one of which was 220 mm in diameter...
Previously, there was a painted skirting board that was sawed in the back and then filled. Naturally, I wanted to continue with oak skirting in the hallway, as in the rest of the floor. Then I found a flexible skirting board from Kährs that works great. It is expensive as heck but quite easy to work with.
The wood fibers in the skirting board are compressed about 30% in length. Soak the skirting for a day before you need it, then bend it against the wall and fasten it. When it dries, it stays in the right shape, it almost feels like magic...
Here is a link to check out: Kährs skirting board
The guys at the building supply store laughed when they saw the skirting board and thought I had been fooled.
Previously, there was a painted skirting board that was sawed in the back and then filled. Naturally, I wanted to continue with oak skirting in the hallway, as in the rest of the floor. Then I found a flexible skirting board from Kährs that works great. It is expensive as heck but quite easy to work with.
The wood fibers in the skirting board are compressed about 30% in length. Soak the skirting for a day before you need it, then bend it against the wall and fasten it. When it dries, it stays in the right shape, it almost feels like magic...
Here is a link to check out: Kährs skirting board
The guys at the building supply store laughed when they saw the skirting board and thought I had been fooled.