I have installed cooling coils for natural cooling throughout my ceiling (120m2) that are obviously regulated to prevent condensation.

I'm also thinking of experimenting with running heat through the coils to get ceiling heating.

Now I've reached the stage where it's time to choose a surface layer for the ceiling, and of course, I want to maximize the cooling/heating output, i.e., a material with as poor insulation as possible.

I don't know what to choose, wood paneling/gypsum/OSB, etc.
 
use plåt
 
gege said:
Now I've reached the point where it's time to choose the surface layer for the ceiling,
Not sure if I would want that on my ceiling, but we all have different preferences :p
 
saturnus said:
use sheet metal
Yes, that would be the absolute best, unfortunately it's a bit too impractical and hard to make it look nice.

lordi
You need to have something as a finish, it doesn't look very good right now.
Using passive cooling in the ceiling is not new and well tested.
 
Taut weave?
 
fridde said:
Taut fabric?
Well, doesn't sound too bad, I'll probably check it out anyway, the downside is probably that a small air layer forms between the heat/cooling source that hinders "radiation".
 
A bit tired today, but do you want the heat/cold to spread to the upper floor?
 
NetNut said:
A bit tired today, but you want the heat/cold to spread to the upper floor?
No, this is an upper floor; on the lower floor, there is already underfloor heating and a small fan element for natural cooling.

The idea was mainly to get passive cooling on the upper floor.
 
gege said:
Yes, that would be absolutely the best, unfortunately, it's a bit too impractical and hard to make it look nice.

lordi
You have to have something for surface finish, it doesn't look very good right now.
Running passive cooling in the ceiling is nothing new and well-proven.
Of course, it is well-proven with ceiling cooling and nothing wrong with it. It was just that darn grammar police popping up in my head again, so I joked a bit with your spelling of the word ytskikt... sorry :o
 
We previously had ceiling heating in our house. It was popular in the 70s. It consisted of foil with electric coils. The foil was stapled to the ceiling. Then there was a stretched woven ceiling about 30mm below this. It worked reasonably well as a heat source.

The theory in the 70s with ceiling heating was that it would provide radiant heat from the coils, and it would primarily hit the head of those in the room. By "feeling" the heat from the ceiling, it would lead to lowering the room's temperature (there was a thermostat in each room). It was believed that the head was the most sensitive to heat, so by heating it from above, it could save energy.

I doubt that the pipe coils get as warm as the electric coils, so the question is whether there's any significant radiant heat. And perhaps radiant heat is needed to get through the woven ceiling.
 
Hmmm, actually you should have had aluminum foil above the pipes so that the heat radiation is reflected downwards. As a previous post suggested, one could make a thin ceiling of permeable fabric, just make frames of appropriate size and then stretch the fabric over them. It also provides some sound damping.
 
Hempularen: what a wacky idea, it's the feet that keep getting cold all the time, so if you overheat your head and lower the temperature, it gets even colder for the feet?

I guess that's why underfloor heating became fashionable instead.
 
hempularen:
I am aware that there won't be any "radiant heat," the upper floor doesn't need much heating since it is very well insulated and a lot of heat comes from the lower floor.
But there are systems for waterborne ceiling heating today http://www.smartplasticsystems.se/losningar/kombinerad-varme-och-kyla-i-undertak/

NetNut:
My pipes are in a sparse panel with underfloor heating plates, so in my case, a foil wouldn't do any good.
But the fabric idea sounds good to me.

Otherwise, what do you think about a thin renovation plasterboard that you screw tightly against the plate, sort of like a "stove" I think, where you want good contact to the heat/cooling source.
 
In that case, you need something that conducts heat; plaster conducts heat better than wood but is still relatively sluggish. If you want to use renovation plasterboard, the heat conduction/distribution would be better if you first attach a 2-3mm aluminum plate and then the plasterboard underneath it.
 
Probably leaning towards thin renovation plaster.
 
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