...and we should try to avoid that 
Trees are unlikely since we have cut down all the trees within falling distance from the pool and the house during the pool construction.
Moose are plentiful in the forest, but as mentioned, they would have to breach 2 fences and not get scared of the dogs (6 of them)
Trees are unlikely since we have cut down all the trees within falling distance from the pool and the house during the pool construction.
Moose are plentiful in the forest, but as mentioned, they would have to breach 2 fences and not get scared of the dogs (6 of them)
Another question, speaking of chlorination.
You really seem to know what you're talking about, so I'll throw the question at you, and if you feel like you don't want to answer or don't have the energy, that's completely fine.
A pool with my dimensions, how much chlorine should I use?
I have a salt chlorinator that's going to run next season when the pool is in operation.
You really seem to know what you're talking about, so I'll throw the question at you, and if you feel like you don't want to answer or don't have the energy, that's completely fine.
A pool with my dimensions, how much chlorine should I use?
I have a salt chlorinator that's going to run next season when the pool is in operation.
You just follow the instructions on the can of shock chlorine. A regular shocking is sufficient since not much free chlorine is consumed during winter when the water is cold and no one is swimming.
However, you should start measuring chlorine and pH when the water approaches 10 degrees in the spring, and when the chlorine level starts to drop, it's time to restart the pool. If the pH is okay at the winter closing, it should generally be okay at startup, provided you don't live next to some polluting industry. pH and alkalinity measurements can be a bit tricky before starting up the pool when the temperature and circulation have begun.
Regarding the salt chlorinator, I would wait to kick it on until you possibly reach 18-20 degrees, and there is much written about this on pool forums.
Otherwise, when it comes to chemistry... Avoid cheap sticks as they are a bit difficult to read; I myself have an Aquachek that works OK as long as the water isn't too cold.
Furthermore, the Folkpool chemistry calculator is a very useful tool for keeping the chemistry balanced.
However, you should start measuring chlorine and pH when the water approaches 10 degrees in the spring, and when the chlorine level starts to drop, it's time to restart the pool. If the pH is okay at the winter closing, it should generally be okay at startup, provided you don't live next to some polluting industry. pH and alkalinity measurements can be a bit tricky before starting up the pool when the temperature and circulation have begun.
Regarding the salt chlorinator, I would wait to kick it on until you possibly reach 18-20 degrees, and there is much written about this on pool forums.
Otherwise, when it comes to chemistry... Avoid cheap sticks as they are a bit difficult to read; I myself have an Aquachek that works OK as long as the water isn't too cold.
Furthermore, the Folkpool chemistry calculator is a very useful tool for keeping the chemistry balanced.
I came to think that you should probably still apply some pressure at least until the ice has settled. There is a risk that you might experience chlorine consumption due to the sun's rays. It can preferably rest against the water surface.