Hello,
I'm new to the forum and desperately seeking answers...
I have a newly built pool, 6*12m, that needs to be covered for the winter. The problem is that I can't get hold of cover plates except from folkpool, and they're very expensive there.
So, I have a lot of corrugated sheet metal that might be usable. The problem is supporting the sheets considering the span (6m). The span means I have to splice the studs (45*145 or 45*170). The question is, how close do the studs need to be to support the sheets plus snow, say up to 1 meter of snow?
Anyone smart who knows?
Or has another good budget alternative?
Thanks in advance!
/Karl
I'm new to the forum and desperately seeking answers...
I have a newly built pool, 6*12m, that needs to be covered for the winter. The problem is that I can't get hold of cover plates except from folkpool, and they're very expensive there.
So, I have a lot of corrugated sheet metal that might be usable. The problem is supporting the sheets considering the span (6m). The span means I have to splice the studs (45*145 or 45*170). The question is, how close do the studs need to be to support the sheets plus snow, say up to 1 meter of snow?
Anyone smart who knows?
Or has another good budget alternative?
Thanks in advance!
/Karl
Place an extra support at the middle down to the bottom of the pool.
Raise the middle a little so that at least part of the snow slides off.
Raise the middle a little so that at least part of the snow slides off.
I was also considering putting a support in the middle of the beam, so that it becomes like a T, and cover the foot with cellplast to protect the pool liner.
The question is what Cc should the beams have?
Is Cc 100 sufficient or should they be closer together?
The question is what Cc should the beams have?
Is Cc 100 sufficient or should they be closer together?
Should be like calculating on any roof. Search for snow load roof or similar.
Maybe you can decrease it a little so that a slide doesn't become a catastrophe.
Cellplast at the bottom under the rule sounds smart to distribute the load over a larger area,
Maybe you can decrease it a little so that a slide doesn't become a catastrophe.
Cellplast at the bottom under the rule sounds smart to distribute the load over a larger area,
I have 6m (135mm?) sheets that I found second-hand on Blocket. They handle the snow load without any problem. On poolforum, there are some addresses to companies that sell sheets cheaply. However, keep in mind the shipping, they are cumbersome heavy items. There are also other solutions with airbags under a tarpaulin.
I have a Folkpool's pool. I am active on the pool forum but didn't get a reasonable answer to this construction question.
The thing is, I've gone over my pool budget at least twice this year, so presenting an expense of nearly 20,000 a month before Christmas is completely unthinkable... I'd be lynched if so
So, hence my idea about a framework to put roof sheets on or stretch a tarp over.
But if you lay roof sheets, what should the Cc be?
Or does a tarp work as coverage over the framework?
It's such ridiculously large areas, 6*12m, that just stretching a tarp over the hole isn't really feasible.
The thing is, I've gone over my pool budget at least twice this year, so presenting an expense of nearly 20,000 a month before Christmas is completely unthinkable... I'd be lynched if so
So, hence my idea about a framework to put roof sheets on or stretch a tarp over.
But if you lay roof sheets, what should the Cc be?
Or does a tarp work as coverage over the framework?
It's such ridiculously large areas, 6*12m, that just stretching a tarp over the hole isn't really feasible.
I had to give 4500 for 75m2 in 6m lengths.
Check Blocket.
Keep in mind that the pool cover has two functions.
1. Ensure that the pool does not overflow, i.e., keep the skimmer free from water.
2. Safety, so that no animals, children, or others step into the hidden pool.
Check Blocket.
Keep in mind that the pool cover has two functions.
1. Ensure that the pool does not overflow, i.e., keep the skimmer free from water.
2. Safety, so that no animals, children, or others step into the hidden pool.
I've checked Blocket for TP128 and 104 without much success.
Or they are available but cost around 15,000 plus shipping from Småland to Stockholm...
The water level is about a meter below the overflow drains, so there's no risk of flooding unless we experience a new ice age that pushes everything up.
I'm considering hanging down a submersible pump with a level sensor so that if it even comes close to the overflow drains, the water is pumped out.
Safety is covered by the fact that I've put up a fence (Gunnebo 1.20 high) around the pool so no children fall in, and the animals would have to first get past a 1.60 fence around the yard, plus the 1.20 fence, and my dogs have a deterrent effect on the wildlife with their barking.
But just a cover that you stretch out/lay on the water surface feels so-so... Or what do you think?
Or they are available but cost around 15,000 plus shipping from Småland to Stockholm...
The water level is about a meter below the overflow drains, so there's no risk of flooding unless we experience a new ice age that pushes everything up.
I'm considering hanging down a submersible pump with a level sensor so that if it even comes close to the overflow drains, the water is pumped out.
Safety is covered by the fact that I've put up a fence (Gunnebo 1.20 high) around the pool so no children fall in, and the animals would have to first get past a 1.60 fence around the yard, plus the 1.20 fence, and my dogs have a deterrent effect on the wildlife with their barking.
But just a cover that you stretch out/lay on the water surface feels so-so... Or what do you think?
If you have resolved the security and lowered the water level enough, you don't really need any covers. Putting a tarp over it is completely pointless as it will just be pressed down to the water surface, and all the debris will land on it, and when you remove it, all the mess will end up in the pool anyway. Instead, invest the money in a pool robot from the US for the spring.
Okay, because I considered also adding beams between the long sides to be 100% sure they won't be pushed in by something like frost heave... Although, I've backfilled with only gravel for the first 100cm out from the pool, but still.
Are you active on the pool forum? If so, do you have your project up there?
Are you active on the pool forum? If so, do you have your project up there?
If you have draining material around the pool, the risk of frost heave is virtually nonexistent. I have the same principle plus a wooden deck around it for stabilization.
I've been very active on the pool forum, but after a dispute with Rickard, I chose to leave the forum as I felt exploited by giving advice and tips while he was making money and sending mocking PMs and emails.
Therefore, I prefer to give my advice on BH to those in need.
Personally, I lower the water level 20cm below the skimmer, put some foam in it, plug the inlet, drain the hoses as best as possible, and keep the summer pool cover as debris protection, placing the plates on top with a very slight slope.
Also, don't forget to shock chlorinate before winterizing.
I've been very active on the pool forum, but after a dispute with Rickard, I chose to leave the forum as I felt exploited by giving advice and tips while he was making money and sending mocking PMs and emails.
Therefore, I prefer to give my advice on BH to those in need.
Personally, I lower the water level 20cm below the skimmer, put some foam in it, plug the inlet, drain the hoses as best as possible, and keep the summer pool cover as debris protection, placing the plates on top with a very slight slope.
Also, don't forget to shock chlorinate before winterizing.
Sad to see you leave the forum.
We need people who know what they're talking about, unlike those who just make money off others.
Unfortunately, the latter is more common than the former...
Regarding debris cover, if I sew together 2 tarps so that they measure 10*20m in my case and let the edges lie over the edge, then the junk should come up when I lift the tarp, right?
The plan is to have winter covers next winter, but right now my budget has completely failed twice and my partner just laughs at me when I try to get a little money for my pool... = forget it!
I took on a gigantic project that I sometimes regret though... 6*12 with a deep section, doing everything myself.
The ground is moraine and the boulders are in the size range of 2-3 tonnes...
Regarding shock chlorination, why do you do it before winter? I'm going to do it, but what is a possible consequence if you don't?
We need people who know what they're talking about, unlike those who just make money off others.
Unfortunately, the latter is more common than the former...
Regarding debris cover, if I sew together 2 tarps so that they measure 10*20m in my case and let the edges lie over the edge, then the junk should come up when I lift the tarp, right?
The plan is to have winter covers next winter, but right now my budget has completely failed twice and my partner just laughs at me when I try to get a little money for my pool... = forget it!
I took on a gigantic project that I sometimes regret though... 6*12 with a deep section, doing everything myself.
The ground is moraine and the boulders are in the size range of 2-3 tonnes...
Regarding shock chlorination, why do you do it before winter? I'm going to do it, but what is a possible consequence if you don't?
The problem with the covers is that snow and water will press down the cover onto the surface if you don't have sheets as rain protection. Building a tent will last until the first storm; last winter, even two sheets lifted and flew 10 meters during a storm.
I shock the pool for the following reasons:
1. To remove all combined chlorine in order to have free chlorine ready for when spring comes.
2. I don't need to fill up and start the pool when the water temperature reaches 9-10 degrees, but can wait until the season starts in mid-May. Since I have a high chlorine level after the winter, I don't have to worry about green water. Chlorinating and adjusting the pH of cold water without circulation usually doesn't work well; there's a risk of incorrect test results and the need to use liquid chemicals.
Ps impressive pool you must have built!
I shock the pool for the following reasons:
1. To remove all combined chlorine in order to have free chlorine ready for when spring comes.
2. I don't need to fill up and start the pool when the water temperature reaches 9-10 degrees, but can wait until the season starts in mid-May. Since I have a high chlorine level after the winter, I don't have to worry about green water. Chlorinating and adjusting the pH of cold water without circulation usually doesn't work well; there's a risk of incorrect test results and the need to use liquid chemicals.
Ps impressive pool you must have built!
But isn't there a risk that the liner will get damaged if you don't use plates?