same tendency to clap with the post mounted?SSSS said:
No, it's better then, have drilled a slightly longer distance than the pole is wide, which makes the flat irons press inward and lock in the hole. I don't know if it gets any better but have poured cement slurry in the gap between the hole and dowel this evening.SBH said:
I'm considering using anchor mass for the rest of the poles. But does it also work well on my dowels even though they don't have any threads?
I don't have much experience with just leaf dowels, but I do have experience with rock eyes attached in the same way as leaf dowels, as well as with doweling for casting on rock and various other fastenings in rock.
For rock eyes, I usually use a 20mm drill bit for 16mm eyes. Sure, it sounds big, but it's needed. Clean the hole, insert the eye with the wedge attached, and hammer until it feels solid. If the play at the top bothers you, you can sulfur the shafts by sprinkling sulfur and lighting it. It's not something I've practiced myself, but I've seen it done.
Other than eyes/leaves with wedges, it can advantageously be fastened with anchor adhesive. It's not so particular that there are just threads on the surface - just make some deep scratches with an angle grinder so the adhesive has something to grip onto. I usually do this with all-thread too so that it can't be unscrewed from the adhesive. But anchor adhesive is expensive and takes time to work with; among other things, there are much higher requirements for clean holes when using anchor adhesive compared to wedges. So I would definitely use leaf dowels with wedges for a fence. As you mentioned, you can drill so it tightens a bit, and then there will be no issue with the holes being large.
Before anchor adhesive existed, it was also common to fasten things with pure cement mixed with a bit of water. It works well for things that aren't subjected to a lot of tension and wear. Maybe not for a mooring eye, but it works for fastening regular beam shoes into rock for a fence, for example.
For rock eyes, I usually use a 20mm drill bit for 16mm eyes. Sure, it sounds big, but it's needed. Clean the hole, insert the eye with the wedge attached, and hammer until it feels solid. If the play at the top bothers you, you can sulfur the shafts by sprinkling sulfur and lighting it. It's not something I've practiced myself, but I've seen it done.
Other than eyes/leaves with wedges, it can advantageously be fastened with anchor adhesive. It's not so particular that there are just threads on the surface - just make some deep scratches with an angle grinder so the adhesive has something to grip onto. I usually do this with all-thread too so that it can't be unscrewed from the adhesive. But anchor adhesive is expensive and takes time to work with; among other things, there are much higher requirements for clean holes when using anchor adhesive compared to wedges. So I would definitely use leaf dowels with wedges for a fence. As you mentioned, you can drill so it tightens a bit, and then there will be no issue with the holes being large.
Before anchor adhesive existed, it was also common to fasten things with pure cement mixed with a bit of water. It works well for things that aren't subjected to a lot of tension and wear. Maybe not for a mooring eye, but it works for fastening regular beam shoes into rock for a fence, for example.
Thanks for the tips PNO, I've been using a Ø22mm drill for Ø19mm studs, it feels like I'm getting them to the bottom of the hole and that they fit snugly. However, I would need something better to clean the holes with, I don't have a compressor so I used what I had at home, a straw and blew. The result was okay = all the dust in my face. 
Maybe I should reconsider the anchoring compound, but I planned to buy it at biltema and it takes about 12ml (11.93 cm^3) + waste per hole and I have 22 holes left, so I thought of buying three tubes of 280ml for 400kr, which should be enough.
Maybe I should reconsider the anchoring compound, but I planned to buy it at biltema and it takes about 12ml (11.93 cm^3) + waste per hole and I have 22 holes left, so I thought of buying three tubes of 280ml for 400kr, which should be enough.
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do you have a bike pump?SSSS said:Thanks for the tips PNO, I used a Ø22mm drill for Ø19mm bladdubb, it feels like I can get them to the bottom of the hole and that it's solid. However, I would need something better to clean the holes with, I don't have a compressor so I used what I had at home, i.e., a straw and blew. The results were so-so = all the dust in my face.
Maybe I should reconsider the anchor adhesive but I was planning to buy it at biltema and it takes about 12ml (11.93 cm^3) + waste per hole and I have 22 holes left so I was thinking of buying three tubes of 280ml for 400kr so it should be enough.
I don't understand why you need anchor adhesive when you've bought fine bladdubb