I built a metal shed for the caravan, quite sturdy with a good slope. I was only going to have a caravan underneath, so it didn't matter how the roof looked from the inside, no underlay and no insulation. There is some condensation sometimes and it drips a lot, but it doesn't matter that much considering what is stored there.
I have also built sheds with raw wood, no condensation problem and stable, easy to work with and tight, just like metal.
During some renovations of porches, I've seen that it's never just metal, but rather raw wood and metal-covered, although with smooth metal which shouldn't make a difference. These porches have had spaces underneath used for enjoyment, even heated rooms.
I advocate for raw wood but don't protest against metal as it also serves its purpose.
Are you familiar with the different strength classifications for construction timber considering what you wrote about gluing/nailing two studs together, which shouldn't be necessary?
I have also built sheds with raw wood, no condensation problem and stable, easy to work with and tight, just like metal.
During some renovations of porches, I've seen that it's never just metal, but rather raw wood and metal-covered, although with smooth metal which shouldn't make a difference. These porches have had spaces underneath used for enjoyment, even heated rooms.
I advocate for raw wood but don't protest against metal as it also serves its purpose.
Are you familiar with the different strength classifications for construction timber considering what you wrote about gluing/nailing two studs together, which shouldn't be necessary?
What do you think about prlpets metal solution?
Familiar with strength classes such as C24 etc. You mean a simple 45x220 is enough?
Familiar with strength classes such as C24 etc. You mean a simple 45x220 is enough?
Yes, C 30 or higher, but check with the builders' merchant.
You will need 9-meter-long beams, which means you will have a joint somewhere where you have a post.
You have the nickname "Novisfixaren" but became a member in 2009, so you probably know how to make a joint since you've been here for 8 years.
A good tip is to hire a professional and work with them for a while, ask about everything and make sure you understand.
It's easy to make a mistake, and if there are 50 partying people on the terrace, it means a load of up to 15 tons when dancing, which isn't always included in calculations.
As I wrote before, I like råspont, but pelpet's metal suggestion is just as good.
You will need 9-meter-long beams, which means you will have a joint somewhere where you have a post.
You have the nickname "Novisfixaren" but became a member in 2009, so you probably know how to make a joint since you've been here for 8 years.
A good tip is to hire a professional and work with them for a while, ask about everything and make sure you understand.
It's easy to make a mistake, and if there are 50 partying people on the terrace, it means a load of up to 15 tons when dancing, which isn't always included in calculations.
As I wrote before, I like råspont, but pelpet's metal suggestion is just as good.
I can get hold of this profile, is it more suitable for Pelpet's proposal than the regular 20 profile?
https://itsolution.lindab.com/linda...ation/buildingproducts/se/technical/ltp45.pdf
https://itsolution.lindab.com/linda...ation/buildingproducts/se/technical/ltp45.pdf
Not less appropriate, but if you look at pelpet's suggestion, there are no bärläkt included, which you should have. So, bärlinor of 9 meters, crossbeams also of 9 meters, bärläkt 9 meters and on them the sheet. You can lay bärläkt with cc 60 to get a stable and secure roof; then the only issue is attaching the deck, but that has been done before. Also note that the sheet has a recommended minimum roof angle of 3.6 degrees with two overlaps.
The whole point of pelpet's suggestion is to skip battens and save ceiling height?
Possibly nogs for support of the sheet metal between the joists.
Possibly nogs for support of the sheet metal between the joists.
There's no point because you can't do that, the sheet metal is stable lengthwise but flexible crosswise, so you can't skip battens. Try it yourself at the building supply store, lift up a sheet and it's rigid lengthwise and bends across. If you read the sheet metal description you'll see there are a lot of short grain beams, but it's more complicated. The battens can be 45X70 with the long side down, that's how I've done it with cc 60 and got a stable metal roof that can withstand large loads.
Hmm ok then I'm probably back to the board and roofing felt solution. Is the underlay felt really a must?
If you look at pelpet's picture, shouldn't it work if you have kortlingar?
Yes, underlay paper is a must and not at all difficult to lay. Sure, you can use struts, but there will be quite a few considering the load-bearing capacity, and the purlins are easy to lay and stabilizing. You should have a slope on the sheet and also ensure that moisture does not stay anywhere. You should have "trusses" with cc 60 lying on the beams that are spaced at 3 meters. Sketch it on paper and then draw in struts with a spacing of 2 meters, which is the minimum for the sheet you will have. Quite a few struts to nail, a lot of sawing and fitting. Purlins are nailed on top of the "trusses," joined on them, and preferably sawn on site.
Hmm but pelpet's solution involves sheet metal + battens that are practically 0.5mm and the floor joists for the deck will sit directly on top of the roof beams, which should be very stable...?
With load-bearing battens, how should I fit so the decking floor joists are directly under the roof joists..?
With load-bearing battens, how should I fit so the decking floor joists are directly under the roof joists..?
The sheet is not stiff across but only along its length, so battens are needed to prevent the sheet from sagging. The roof will slope, which means you need to level it out so that the deck is even. The height difference is a little over 60 cm, which should be built up so that those on the deck do not slide off into the field. There is no problem with placing floor joists on top of "rafters," on the contrary, it is a must. You have screwed the sheet into the "rafters" with cc 60, place the floor joists on top where they are. If you have used 45x70 timber laid flat? then you have quite a bit of room to find them. If instead, you use raw planking with paper but with the same cc, you avoid the battens, you get a more stable roof to put a deck on, which is quite nice when the carpentry itself is done and from underneath you get a cladable roof without condensation and bangs?
Okay but isn't the longevity worse on a cardboard roof compared to a metal roof? Does the fact that the wooden deck covers the cardboard from exposure to sun and snow, etc., mean that I can expect the lifespan of the cardboard roof to be longer than if it were exposed? The battens that are placed on the cardboard roof, how should these be attached to maintain the integrity of the cardboard?
30 years on roofing felt isn't so bad, about the same as metal roofs. Often there are other things to do before then. But my opinion is that it's easier to replace roofing felt because the sheathing underneath is almost always in good condition, and then it's just a matter of tearing off the old felt and applying new.
You lay the underlayment for the deck as you lay the underlayment for a tile roof, along the "rafters" and in the direction of the slope. Since you are wise and have laid a strip of tar or glue underneath and secured them with about two solid screws or possibly nails per meter, you would have to power wash for a week to get even a drop of water in.
No, you wouldn't get that; it becomes completely watertight.
You mentioned that you wouldn't build a deck over the entire roof area, which could mean that where the deck isn't intended, you can have 120 cc with 22mm sheathing.
You lay the underlayment for the deck as you lay the underlayment for a tile roof, along the "rafters" and in the direction of the slope. Since you are wise and have laid a strip of tar or glue underneath and secured them with about two solid screws or possibly nails per meter, you would have to power wash for a week to get even a drop of water in.
No, you wouldn't get that; it becomes completely watertight.
You mentioned that you wouldn't build a deck over the entire roof area, which could mean that where the deck isn't intended, you can have 120 cc with 22mm sheathing.