Hello,
I have started installing interior doors and have a few questions... I have measured and positioned the first door frame level in all directions and hung the door. There is a small gap when the door is closed, maybe 3-5 millimeters between the door leaf and frame. This can lead to problems when air pressure changes, for example, when a window is opened and it's windy, the door might bang against the frame even though it's closed. How do you prevent this when installing interior doors?
I don't want to attach a rubber seal around as the doors will be open most of the day (children could tear them). Since these are bedroom doors, they will be closed at night. I can imagine this noise is quite disturbing. I haven't noticed if I have it yet but I've only installed the first door and want to prevent it in the future. The first door I mounted leads to a walk-in closet where the door is closed most of the day, so I could use a rubber seal there.
Are there any rules for how a bathroom door should be installed? Should it open into the bathroom or out into the living room? We have a staircase right by the bathroom door, and opening outward could cause someone to end up on the stairs with too forceful an opening of the door.
One wall is 26 mm wider than the door frame, is there any special trim that can be used to cover this gap before installing the door casing?
Do you install the door directly on the parquet floor or a few mm up in the door opening?
It's a Swedoor with snap-in door leaf mounting.
/Honeybun
I have started installing interior doors and have a few questions... I have measured and positioned the first door frame level in all directions and hung the door. There is a small gap when the door is closed, maybe 3-5 millimeters between the door leaf and frame. This can lead to problems when air pressure changes, for example, when a window is opened and it's windy, the door might bang against the frame even though it's closed. How do you prevent this when installing interior doors?
I don't want to attach a rubber seal around as the doors will be open most of the day (children could tear them). Since these are bedroom doors, they will be closed at night. I can imagine this noise is quite disturbing. I haven't noticed if I have it yet but I've only installed the first door and want to prevent it in the future. The first door I mounted leads to a walk-in closet where the door is closed most of the day, so I could use a rubber seal there.
Are there any rules for how a bathroom door should be installed? Should it open into the bathroom or out into the living room? We have a staircase right by the bathroom door, and opening outward could cause someone to end up on the stairs with too forceful an opening of the door.
One wall is 26 mm wider than the door frame, is there any special trim that can be used to cover this gap before installing the door casing?
Do you install the door directly on the parquet floor or a few mm up in the door opening?
It's a Swedoor with snap-in door leaf mounting.
/Honeybun
is it run on the hinge side or the lock side or both? place the bathroom door so it is practically positioned
I put those transparent silicone bumpers that you use on kitchen cabinet doors and wardrobes as sound dampeners. One at the top and one at the bottom, it provides just the right amount of "tension" and also doesn't make a lot of noise when the kids slam a door.
can you measure what the frame head and bottom piece are? you might need to use hinge benders
Hmm, adjusting the hinges wouldn't help with the gap in the door, would it? It's probably adjusting the strike plate as mentioned above, or perhaps some form of "rubber stoppers" as also mentioned earlier. I like the idea of silicone stoppers, I think I'll get a pair myself.
#SeaView, where did you buy yours?
#SeaView, where did you buy yours?
Had a few left over from the kitchen installation, but I saw they're available at K-rauta. Otherwise, Ikea's section for screws and fittings has them. They come on a card and are available in different sizes.
A tip is to first screw in the hinge side. Then test close the door to check the closing.
And the specialist you need, I believe, is called a klackfoder. It is a moulding strip with a 13 mm ridge that goes against the door frame. It is better to use one of these than to use a regular moulding + a 13/26 mm strip, as the door + frame move slightly when opened and closed, making it difficult for the filler to hold.
Shouldn't bathroom doors always be installed to open outward? I believe that in small spaces like bathrooms and closets, doors should be outward-opening. Maybe more recommendations than rules. If you have a large bathroom, it might not matter. It can be difficult to open a door inward in a small room, in my opinion, it feels quite impractical to open it inward. But it's a matter of taste. Good luck!Honeybun said:
Are there any rules about how a bathroom door should be installed? Should it open into the bathroom or out into the living room? We have a staircase right by the bathroom door and opening it outward could cause someone to fall into the staircase with a too forceful opening of the door.
Yes, but it's mainly a question of the threshold, in order to have a high edge that the floor's waterproofing can go up against, the door is most commonly installed to open outward in bathrooms, etc. Then the threshold is highest toward the room.
Yes, but it's mainly a question of the threshold, in order to have a high edge that the floor's waterproofing can go up against, the door is most commonly installed to open outward in bathrooms, etc. Then the threshold is highest toward the room.
Hinge crackers don't work on modern interior doors.
Door trim isn't enough when there's a 26mm difference; you have to extend/adjust the frame by 26mm.
I put pieces of weather stripping on my interior doors, 3 pieces are usually enough.
My doors move quietly and smoothly, no rattling here!!
Door trim isn't enough when there's a 26mm difference; you have to extend/adjust the frame by 26mm.
I put pieces of weather stripping on my interior doors, 3 pieces are usually enough.
My doors move quietly and smoothly, no rattling here!!
it works. but you have to be careful.
I think you should put a strip all the way. like a draft strip.
it looks ugly with strip stumps. or rubber plugs
in the lock catch so you can adjust it so it doesn't make so much noise when it's closed (locking the door that is).
I think you should put a strip all the way. like a draft strip.
it looks ugly with strip stumps. or rubber plugs
in the lock catch so you can adjust it so it doesn't make so much noise when it's closed (locking the door that is).