Impossible screw. Help!!

[Nissens]

Torx usually works on individual screws, if you are going to remove many, perhaps a 'grispitt' is better?

Not according to my experience. The "grispitt" has both an expanding effect on the screw, and it also breaks easily, which is a big hassle...

 

[Niq]

An impact driver is good, but if you have an old screw with a head that's not very durable, it's easy for the screw head to break off, leaving no trace at all. Then you're in for some fun.

I forgot to mention in my previous post that it often helps to tap on the screw so it moves slightly. Sometimes it can also help to tighten it a bit. If you can get it to move a little somehow, it usually helps quite a lot.

 

[Hammare&Spik]

I finally took apart the frames. I can mention that grinding new grooves with the angle grinder was the easiest in my case, even though it was risky.

As you can see from the marking I've done on one of the pictures, there are holes left after the hinges have been removed. I'm not going to put back new hinges (planning to use the windows to build an orangery/greenhouse). My question now is, how do I best fill the cavities created by the old hinge? The hole is about 3-4mm (there are also deeper ones in other parts of the window). Wood filler? Window putty? Or what do you think would be best? The plan is to repaint with linseed oil paint.

 

[hsd]

I would smooth out the edges and make a piece of wood that fits and glue it there, sand a little and paint.

 

[Hammare&Spik]

I would even out the edges and make a wooden piece that fits and glue it there, sand a bit and paint

Definitely a good option! Since there might be 50-60 such holes I will encounter with my windows, I would like to have something quick and durable. Isn't there something specific for windows?

 

[cpalm]

what do you think might be best?

A bit thick for puttying with good results. I would have glued on a piece of wood and planed it flat.
Rip a long, thin, and suitably wide strip, a few mm thicker than the hinge, which you can cut pieces from.
Assume you'll scrape off the existing paint, so scrape the recess thoroughly clean at the same time before gluing.

P.s. the first windows will feel like they take an endless amount of time. But focus on finding an efficient assembly line method.

 

[Alfredo]

A two-component filler that does not "sink" and is sandable and paintable is something I would test. Unfortunately, I don't have any current product suggestions.

 

[Hammare&Spik]

I would test a two-component filler that doesn't "settle" and is sandable and paintable. Unfortunately, I don't have any current suggestions for products.

Like chemical wood.?

 

[z_bumbi]

Glue a piece of wood that is smaller than what you need. Then either fill with putty or mix sawdust with wood glue and fill with that. It’s not structural, so it’s just about getting something that keeps the paint in place. The easiest way is to cut the hinges and let the rest remain.

 

[Hammare&Spik]

Glue a piece of wood that is smaller than what you need. Then either fill with putty or mix sawdust with wood glue and fill with that. It's not structural, so it just needs to hold the paint in place. The easiest is to cut the hinges and leave the rest.

Glue a piece of wood that is smaller than what you need. Then either fill with putty or mix sawdust with wood glue and fill with that. It's not structural, so it just needs to hold the paint in place. The easiest is to cut the hinges and leave the rest.

I have collected sawdust from other building projects. What I'm wondering is if sawdust and glue are as durable (considering weather and wind, a greenhouse that needs to be watered every day) as chemical wood?

 

[z_bumbi]

Outdoor glue should work, especially if it's also covered with two/three layers of linoljefärg. I would be significantly more attentive to the rest of the wood, even if you're lucky and have old windows.